Glove Box Lock (1970 442)
March 2nd, 2010, 04:41 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dallas
Posts: 651
Yes, it is pressed on. A locksmith told me it (they) are to fraggle to take off and try to put back on another cylinder. They can be re-keyed. You did not state what your problem is with yours. If it is lose you can tap the pressed part of it with a flat head screwdriver and hammer. That can tighten it up some.
Last edited by hamm36; March 2nd, 2010 at 04:43 PM.
March 3rd, 2010, 04:46 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 166
Thanks, it is spinning on the cylender and requires a key to turn open althow not locked. (tried to show in the pic. by the black mark I made on the cylinder)
I have compressed the edges and seams to have tightened it back up.
I have compressed the edges and seams to have tightened it back up.
March 3rd, 2010, 05:16 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Dont trash it - JB Weld it!
The **** on mine did that once when i was trying to take it apart blindly. 
I eventually pulled the **** off, carefully applied some JB weld (missing the keyhole area, reassembled carefully, removed any squishout from the key hole, verified the key fit, and let dry a few days.
So far so good!
I think your's is spinning in a different location, but JBW still might help if used in moderation.
I eventually pulled the **** off, carefully applied some JB weld (missing the keyhole area, reassembled carefully, removed any squishout from the key hole, verified the key fit, and let dry a few days.
So far so good!
I think your's is spinning in a different location, but JBW still might help if used in moderation.
March 3rd, 2010, 05:42 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Whatever I did to tighten it was not the correct way.
I think after I broke off the ****, i used some pliers to tighten the retainer. After I glued the **** back on, I found the easy removal procedure in the service manual. I needed an egg on face for that blunder.
Luckily the latch still works fine.
March 5th, 2010, 09:44 PM
#7
Classic GM Fan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Keizer, OR
Posts: 217
The retainer is 8-sided. It screws into the lock through the door. You can find a square tool of the appropriate size, insert it, and unscrew the retainer. I had a small square cold chisel that I used the handle of, to unscrew the retainer.
Hold the lock from the back while you unscrew the retainer, you don't want the lock to rotate. It's easy to damage the door--there's a small notch in the plastic door to keep the lock from rotating. If you let it turn you'll damage the notch and the lock will just rotate when you try to unlock it.
Hold the lock from the back while you unscrew the retainer, you don't want the lock to rotate. It's easy to damage the door--there's a small notch in the plastic door to keep the lock from rotating. If you let it turn you'll damage the notch and the lock will just rotate when you try to unlock it.
September 5th, 2011, 07:07 PM
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
June 10th, 2015, 09:08 AM
#11
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
This is the second post in which you make a declarative statement, rather than asking a question, and the intention of neither post is clear.
If you are looking for parts, you should post a request in the Parts Wanted section.
If you are looking for technical advice, you should specify what you need, though I did post a link to a full explanation of how to change the lock, in response to your previous post.
You should not resurrect a 3½ year old thread with a statement that is irrelevant to the initial thread.
- Eric
If you are looking for parts, you should post a request in the Parts Wanted section.
If you are looking for technical advice, you should specify what you need, though I did post a link to a full explanation of how to change the lock, in response to your previous post.
You should not resurrect a 3½ year old thread with a statement that is irrelevant to the initial thread.
- Eric
June 10th, 2015, 08:52 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 7
This is the second post in which you make a declarative statement, rather than asking a question, and the intention of neither post is clear.
If you are looking for parts, you should post a request in the Parts Wanted section.
If you are looking for technical advice, you should specify what you need, though I did post a link to a full explanation of how to change the lock, in response to your previous post.
You should not resurrect a 3½ year old thread with a statement that is irrelevant to the initial thread.
- Eric
If you are looking for parts, you should post a request in the Parts Wanted section.
If you are looking for technical advice, you should specify what you need, though I did post a link to a full explanation of how to change the lock, in response to your previous post.
You should not resurrect a 3½ year old thread with a statement that is irrelevant to the initial thread.
- Eric
June 11th, 2015, 04:28 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Yeah, that got me too at first
If it's such a big deal then...
1) send all new folks a HOW TO WORK THE SITE clue sheet- PM or a single thread that includes all the good stuff one needs to know. How to search, how to add photos, how to find your own posts, how to find the date on a post, etc.
2) quit showing newbies "relevant posts" at the bottom of the screen.... which sound interesting, but on CLOSE inspection are 100 years old.
3mz... welcome to the site
put on your titanium protector cup I guess.
Be sure to phrase your response in the form of an interrogative, and use the proper forum. Also, add photos, and do not enter the subject line until AFTER entering your inquiry/ words of wisdom/ ad... and then look at the post and compose a succinct yet encompassing and specific subject line. Nothing vague. Since it may be viewed in a general list and not just in its home forum, a brief clue in the subject line as to what sort of post it is might be advised:
WTB for a wanted to buy item
FS for a For sale item
etc.
BAD SUBJECT - "Olds parts"
Better - "WTB Engine Parts"
Better yet - "FS '68 350 crank pulley KB $30+sh"
If it's such a big deal then...
1) send all new folks a HOW TO WORK THE SITE clue sheet- PM or a single thread that includes all the good stuff one needs to know. How to search, how to add photos, how to find your own posts, how to find the date on a post, etc.
2) quit showing newbies "relevant posts" at the bottom of the screen.... which sound interesting, but on CLOSE inspection are 100 years old.
3mz... welcome to the site
put on your titanium protector cup I guess.
Be sure to phrase your response in the form of an interrogative, and use the proper forum. Also, add photos, and do not enter the subject line until AFTER entering your inquiry/ words of wisdom/ ad... and then look at the post and compose a succinct yet encompassing and specific subject line. Nothing vague. Since it may be viewed in a general list and not just in its home forum, a brief clue in the subject line as to what sort of post it is might be advised:
WTB for a wanted to buy item
FS for a For sale item
etc.
BAD SUBJECT - "Olds parts"
Better - "WTB Engine Parts"
Better yet - "FS '68 350 crank pulley KB $30+sh"
June 11th, 2015, 06:26 AM
#16
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Be sure to phrase your response in the form of an interrogative, and use the proper forum. Also, add photos, and do not enter the subject line until AFTER entering your inquiry/ words of wisdom/ ad... and then look at the post and compose a succinct yet encompassing and specific subject line. Nothing vague. Since it may be viewed in a general list and not just in its home forum, a brief clue in the subject line as to what sort of post it is might be advised:
WTB for a wanted to buy item
FS for a For sale item
etc.
BAD SUBJECT - "Olds parts"
Better - "WTB Engine Parts"
Better yet - "FS '68 350 crank pulley KB $30+sh"
WTB for a wanted to buy item
FS for a For sale item
etc.
BAD SUBJECT - "Olds parts"
Better - "WTB Engine Parts"
Better yet - "FS '68 350 crank pulley KB $30+sh"
- Eric
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