I have a 72 Cutlass. The driver window crank is not functioning correctly. I've had the car now for a month. The crank was not working properly from the beginning. It would spin around loosely without cranking the window. I found if I just pushed it in a bit, it would then crank the window. Otherwise, the **** hangs down. Now, as I try and push in the crank, it barely catches so it is definately time to do something about this.

Does it sound as if I just need to replace the handle? I don't know what the back sides of these look like. Or is there a mechanism inside that needs to be replaced? I don't want to start digging around in there before I learn a litle more. I know there is a special tool that will aid in taking the handles off.

Thanks

 

Probably.

Take it off and have a look at the splines.









- Eric

 

At this point you may of wiped the splines off the gear if you constantly pushed it on to turn it.

 

I have popped off the handle. It looks as if the crank is worn out, the spline on the regulator actually looks pretty good. I learned a nice little trick for the handle. You can fold over a shop rag, wedge it in behind the crank and pull in the direction of the clip. The handle pops right off, without the tool. I found a crank at Napa that looks right and is coming in from the warehouse today. Should set me up. I guess I could pop of the other door's crank and make sure this works but it certainly looks to be the answer. Thanks guys.

 

That ought to do it.

Let us know how it works!

- Eric.

 

I read on here the repop handles tend to have less spline and as a result strip or don't work as well or at all. If this is the case w your new one any of the parts sellers on here should be able to get you a decent used GM one for not to much money. Last JY run I scored a couple, one for a spare and one to replace the one that inexplicably snapped the handle off after 40+ years of service .

 

x2 on the repop window cranks. I bought a set last year, and ended up not using the door panel tension spring so the crank would sit deep enough to get a good bite.

 

The Napa crank is working just fine. I do agree, it looks as if the teeth are not as prominent as the one I pulled off. Perhaps that was an original crank? The replacement says made in China while the other one doesn't. Regardless, it was a $7 repair. I may swap out one of the rear cranks, since I don't open those nearly as much. I think they look to bethe same size. I'm just glad I didn't have to deal with the regulator. Thanks again guys, and glad I could contribute what I learned about the using the shop rag to pull off the crank!

 

Yes, it's usually the crank handle that wears. Also on good cranks with bad plastic ***** you can buy just a replacement plastic **** at your local parts house, colors are limited.