Rocketbrian

Ah, didn't know that. I had also ordered the drivers door remote control escutheon (bezel) at the same time. It was $29.00 so I was covered. Might as well order those arm rest backing plates, nothing can duplicate new chrome. Ha.

dalilama

Neither one Mac - I was at The Parts Place a few weeks ago and the OEM part guys and I got to talking about my job and actually sprayed SEM Landau Black and their private label "Restoration Paint" Satin Black on a sample and I liked their brand better. Slightly less sheen. Used 3 - 4 cats as you did. Here a pic of the kick panels (original on bottom).

Macadoo

Looks good dali, hard to know for sure from a photo but the sheen looks good.

I got the retainer off. It wasn't that difficult. Granted, the cap had already mostly separated from the washer. I just pushed back on the chrome/hinge to release the tension, tapped a (sharpened on the belt sander) small screwdriver under one of the tabs and carefully lifted up, bending the tab. It came right off after that. Then I tapped the tab back down (too far, maybe).

[IMG][/IMG]

Hopefully the other side will go as well. Do the inner hinges have the same deal?

Macadoo

How was it pulling all the little fiddly bits like the wiper switch backing plate, etc.? I was hoping to pull all that stuff and leave my dash in for painting.

Macadoo

Started hijacking one of Mak's threads so I'm copying and pasting here to continue discussion.

Macadoo
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The 80 mil is a little pricey for me but IIRC it's non-asphalt. I'm not so sure about the 50 mil. I think that one is asphalt. I did find this and asked for a free sample.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371247777469...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Sorry Mak, didn't mean to rush you, lol. I know what it's like (as many of us do) having boxes laying around with awesome stuff in them that you just can't find the time to deal with.
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'71 Cutlass Supreme. Couldn't have gotten this far without the CO community.
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Unread Today, 12:47 PM #34
RandyS
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I bought a 100 sq. ft. roll of 'Fatmat' for $140.00 and it is enough to do two complete floors in a 66. Easy to work with and no odor after install.
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Old Today, 03:05 PM #35
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This begs the question; what are the most important spots to cover? Honestly, I hadn't thought about the ceiling. Is it important? I'm trying to hush my exhaust as much as possible. I can't hear the stereo very well. So I was thinking floor, behind back seat, under the package tray, and both doors. And speaking of doors; some folks cover the the inside skin, others behind the door panels, and yet some do both. I might be adding speakers to my doors and so should do something there.
Randy, I know $140 isn't much but after the new carpet, seat covers, and headliner (not to mention needing about 10 more cans of the Duplicolor), any more and we won't be hitting the road this summer, ya know? Was your $140 Fatmat the 50 mil and was it asphalt based? Mary has asthma and the asphalt would be b.a.d.
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Macadoo

I went ahead and bought this stuff. I made an offer and got 50 sq ft for $60. The ad says it doesn't smell and is very sticky. The feedback was very positive with some folks saying it looked just like Dynamat and others saying it worked great and had no smell. Hoping for the best. I'll report back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371247777469...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Macadoo

Picked up some stuff for the package tray this afternoon. I had cut holes for my three-way speakers but did't like the grills showing. I didn't hack away any metal for the speaker install, they simply mount underneath. I've been looking at different alternatives for cloth to cover the tray and the speaker holes but not muffle the sound. Tonight I tried some black burlap. I wanted to replicate the original wire-screen texture as best I could. So I made a test tile tonight; black burlap laid on 1/8 th inch plywood tile with 3M 90, then spray painted with the Duplicolor to harden and color match. It doesn't look bad and after shaving it with the wife's sweater shaver, it's not too hairy. But I'm concerned that it would be difficult to clean.
Thoughts?

Pic is before shaving
[IMG][/IMG]

RandyS

Can you post a pic after shaving?

Macadoo

Sure Randy, but it won't look much different. More like it just feels different. But I'll do it tonight,

RandyS

Sorry, not trying to cause you extra work. Have you considered using 'Grille Cloth'? I haven't shopped for it for eons, but it used to be available in several styles and patterns at your local 'Stereo Shop'. It is heavy enough to cover well but doesn't affect sound quality.

Macadoo

So, here is the after shaving. Not much different.

[IMG][/IMG]

I did look for grill/acoustic cloth but couldn't find any locally. BUT I didn't look at the fabric shop....derp. I'll bet they have it. It'll be smoother looking but does that really matter?

RandyS

Totally up to you. (I'm so **** that it would matter to me......)

70cutty

damn it Mac, every time I read one of your threads gets me into another project. Now I am about take my interior apart and spray it black.
I ended up ordering a black mesh package tray perforated for speakers from OPGI along with couple of other things.

BTW Good job.

Macadoo

Lol, I know what you mean. I thought about trying some fiberglass screen-wire (the stuff for window screens) but wasn't sure it would hide the speakers very well.

Thanks man. I said the same thing about Rob (Lady-n-Rob). I'm really just a half-assed Rob
So far, I've been doing the easy/fun stuff. Door panels, seats, etc. Not sure I'm looking forward to the headliner.

Macadoo

Gonna' take a peek at grill covering material tomorrow after work. But how do folks add speakers to the doors? I think I have the grills figured out but are they cutting into the door metal or just getting tiny little drivers? There's an opening at the front, lower part of the door where one of the window gears can be seen but it's not very large.

70cutty

I don't about mounting them in the doors but they do sell kick panels with speakers installed for around $100-120 on eBay. That was my plan

Macadoo

Either way, there would need to be the proper opening in the door, yes? I just don't want to do any cutting, ya know? I'll look around for a driver that will fit the existing opening.

70cutty

I was talking about these. no need to cut the door.


with AC

without ac

Macadoo

Oh, I'd never seen these. Very cool...and very pricey. And a rather low priority right now. I had pulled a couple of Bose drivers from our retired Intrigue and thought they may be small enough but no. Do those kick panels just sit on top of the existing door panel or maybe just slips up under the corner?

Macadoo

Oh, lol, yeah, I was way off. I see where they go, now.

Macadoo

I picked up some speaker (acoustical) cloth today. I believe I like the black burlap better. I'll post comparison pics tomorrow.

Macadoo

I ended up going with the burlap. I made a little write-up here if anyone is interested:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post821336

dalilama

Hey Mac - awesome job on the package tray!! You are really making it look easy!

FYI I got my dashboard finished - just waiting for my RetroSound Model 2 to come in. A couple of scuffs during the installation of the dash I'll need to touch up. Also had a weak moment and wound up picking up a Tic Toc Tach repro at The Parts Place when I went out there for a few minor things . Pulling the seats and carpet out and doing the FatMat thing this weekend.

Macadoo

Oh man, that looks great! Really goes well with your sport steering wheel. And thanks for the props on my package tray. It really was pretty easy to do. I just hope my dash turns out as good as yours.

I'm starting my Dynamat [clone] install today as well, but just the package tray area and the rear wall behind the seat. A lot of stuff to work around back there and I'll need to unhook my amp (in the trunk) and rerun the wiring through the deadener.
I was at Home Depot earlier and found something, I'll have to go out and get the name, but it's an odorless peel and seal that says it's a butyl "hybrid". Not sure what that means but there really is no odor and seems pretty sticky. I haven't measured it for thickness but it's 37 square feet for $20. I'm going to use it in easily accessible areas in case it doesn't work. Doors maybe?

Prepping to paint the metal trim along the back window.
[IMG][/IMG]

Using the shop vac to remove excess paint and fumes.
[IMG][/IMG]

The sound deadener is much thinner than the original insulation that was under the tray so I picked up this rubber non-slide stuff I think they make for silverware drawers. I had to splice two pieces together. This will go over the sound deadener but under the package tray.
[IMG][/IMG]

oldstata

Mac, great job
Please keep us informed in the peel and seal.

Macadoo

Thanks Justin.
The peel and seal is called Protecto Wrap. I haven't tried it yet but will definitely report back when I do.

[IMG][/IMG]

Some sound deadener installed and the drawer liner padding cut and placed. The no-name dynamat definitely has a smell but it's not petrol or tar-ish. It smells VERY similar to the drawer liner. Rubbery.

[IMG][/IMG]

Had to do it. I had to jam that puppy in there to see what it looks like. I love it!

[IMG][/IMG]

Slowly making progress.

Macadoo

Progress....with a few questions.

[IMG][/IMG]

Are the front and back pieces of the carpet supposed to have this gap between them?

[IMG][/IMG]
I also want to pull the steering wheel. I removed the two screws on each end (from the back of the wheel) but don't see how to remove the third screw in the middle (for the horn mechanism). It doesn't appear to be accessible from the back, like the others.

The bench springs are all there and intact but seem a little weak, at least I think. When I sit on it it's nice and soft but I feel like I sink down a wee bit more than I'm supposed to. I bought a slab of 1/2" foam for bolstering if needed but could it be the springs too? I've replaced z-springs in a couch and I know what a pain that is. Can I bind them all together with a horizontal steel rod running the entire length?

[IMG][/IMG]

This mat under the front carpet seems to be dry and intact. Reuse over the dynamat [clone]?

[IMG][/IMG]

oldstata

Are the front and back pieces of the carpet supposed to have this gap between them?

On my 72 CS it had the same gap under the front seat. Guessing, it's factory

dalilama

Hey Mac - just go ahead and pull it. The only connection is the spring-loaded horn contact that goes in the hub. There was no third screw removal needed per the manual:

Macadoo

Thanks dali. I just discovered that....when I found my assembly manual I just assumed the contact plate needed to come off first. I was wrong. Didn't realize I have the DELUXE steering wheel, lol.

Macadoo

Thanks Justin, just wanted to make sure. This car was so not molested I just couldn't believe someone messed with the carpet. But it seemed really odd, just gap with exposed floor.

Macadoo

And I thought pulling the engine was hard

[IMG][/IMG]

Macadoo

Someone got a little too happy with the seam sealer.

[IMG][/IMG]

VI Cutty

I didn't find that as hard as pulling the headlight switch off!

Macadoo

Really?! I thought that was easy, lol. What really worries me is getting them back in

VI Cutty

Yeah, I wound up selling the dash with the switch still in!

Macadoo

Well don't tell me that!!

Macadoo

Alrighty then, that was fun.

This first pic is to show my air scrubber jammed in between the door and jam. It's a window fan with a pleated furnace filter on both sides and a cardboard box attached on the inlet side. The box really creates the suction needed. It works great and I use it for painting small parts too. I have another one hanging from my ceiling that I also run.

[IMG][/IMG]

Just a couple pre-tape removal pics. I'm not taking the tape off until I quadruple check for missed spots.

[IMG][/IMG]

It went pretty well. Three cans of paint. I found a couple sags on the very underneath of the metal part of the dash. But they may have been there before. I know I saw a sag and a run in the original paint.
I was worried about getting the paint down against the bottom of the windshield but discovered that by turning the paint nozzle I could change the spray pattern to horizontal instead of vertical and I'm HOPING that helped. I won't know until I pull the tape and can see the dash from the outside. If it didn't go as well as planned, I need to replace the front glass anyway...eventually.

[IMG][/IMG]

Thanks go out to dalilama for his input on the painting process.

dalilama

Looking great Mac! I like the scrubber system. Sure beats floating that spray all over the garage.

The dash will look great in black. I am now looking into my crystal ball and I see....a sport steering wheel in your future

Macadoo

Lol! I mighta', sorta. already had this bookmarked. I told myself if the painting went well I would order this. It went well enough Besides, mine is cracked pretty bad on the back and on both sides. Not sure that's safe.
Is this a decent wheel and a decent price?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360956096815...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT