I have a sport steering wheel for my 71 442 (black rubber?) It is all sticky and I clean it all the time and it is still sticky. Anybody have a remedy for this or is the rubber just breaking down after +/- 36 yrs?

 

Here ya go.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ng-wheels.html

to add to that, I remember reading a contribution on this subject someplace (could not find it though) by a person claiming to have chemistry knowledge. He said that the products used in automotive interiors (not leather of course) have a habit of "outgassing" with age. This "outgassing" of the plastic material is what attracts all kinds of hand sweat, dirt, moisture, etc that becomes the nasty, sticky mess we always experience on the steering wheels. No solution to prevent the outgassing as it will occur, just keep the wheel clean to diminish the build up of junk.

 

yeah man not a whole lot to do about that my '77 cutlass has the same problem so i just bought one of those "old school" leather tied steering wheel covers.

 

I have the same problem with the headliner trim. I read that it was the plasticizer used in the vinyl that breaks down with age. I collect old toys and they have the same problem, especially tires, I don't do Barbies but they are known for it. I have never heard of a way to stop it, some say the gasses are actually toxic, but what isn't anymore?

Allan

 

Outgassing is exactly the problem. The plastics used in these parts continue to give off volatiles. This spooge also condenses on the insides of your windows. I've found that the best solution is to use pre-cleaner solution. This is the solvent that's used to wipe down a car just before you paint it. You can buy a gallon at any auto paint store. The pre-cleaner will not dissolve the plastic. You will likely need to wipe the wheel down every few weeks or so until you remove the remaining volatiles.

By the way, pre-cleaner is a great thing to have around. It won't damage paint, but it will remove a multitude of residues, such as adhesives (from bumper stickers, for example), road tar, bug guts, grease, and many other nasty coatings. Pre-cleaner is also great for cleaning spark plug wires before a show, though be sure to check the compatibility of any date codes or other ink with the pre-cleaner before wholesale wiping down.

 

Good advice guys, thanks. While we are on the subject, does anybody restore these type of steering wheels to make them like new or am I stuck with this or a repro? How are the repros? I know people restore the plastic steering wheels and even wood steering wheels but I am not sure what they can do about this rubber wheel? (is it even considered rubber?)

 

is that the actual name of the product "pre-cleaner"?

 

I know there are numerous companies that restore steering wheels. Unfortunately, I don't have any of them book marked in my "favorites." If you clean, clean, clean the steering wheel it should eventually get rid of most of the nastiness. A steering wheel cover is always another option even though it might look tacky.

 

That's the generic name. There are different brand names. PreSol is one. Basically these are all pre-cleaner solutions to remove oils from a car just prior to painting.

 

do you think it would work for taking emblems off?

 

What's the best cleaner to use after using aircraft paint stripper on an old car? Obviously you can't paint over paint remover.

 

That is a good question. I never thought of what you would use to clean the paint stripper off.

 

Was the old paint scraped off with a tool and there is old residue/stipper left? If so, I would say sand it off, then use the pre-cleaner before painting.

 

I haven't stripped a thing, was just curious as to what different people use.

 

I have stripped many many cars, and yes many oldsmobile cutlasses..... Up until I discovered the value of Soda Blast stripping services of a local "hillbilly", he does an entire car for me for 500 bucks in 2-3 days, drop it off, pick it up cleaned and ready....

anyway. I always used strong detergent solution with water, and quickly dried the small area I worked at a time. I then douched it with "kwik prep", a wonderful DuPont product now copied by most everyone, more commonly found in the POR product line as a metal etch conditioner. Then a nice coat of 2 part metal etch primer like DuPont's "VariPrime" also copied by others, to then lay on some urethane filler.

Oh, sorry I was getting excited and reminiscing to my past time hobby,

Remember, shortcuts are "short cuts". Production must always heed to Quality Assurance to be successful.....

 

Another good residue remover is Goo-Gone, comes in big spray bottles now.

 

Actually, GooGone, Presol, and all the other similar products all feel and smell EXACTLY like enamel thinner (not laquer thinner).

 

Although I haven't painted a car in many years, when I used to work a body shop, we used to strip cars with chemical stripper. After you scrapped away the old paint (and old body filler) we used to use a product called "precleano". Using water is considered a bad idea since the second that water (and all of the chlorine in it) comes in contact with the metal, it begins to rust. The trick is to use some type of mineral spirits to wash and neutralize the chemicals prior to sanding so you don't spread the rust around.

 

To clean for painting, PPG DX330 acryli-clean. To remove stuck on emblems, etc. 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner #08984.