When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I installed new springs and the OPGI foam with the wire molded in is different from the original foam (pictures). Has anyone installed the new thicker foam? What size hog rings did you use. I am not having any luck grabbing onto the springs since the new foam is thicker, Thought about using wire to secure.
Thanks
I have used zip ties in the past to combat this issue. This way you can pull them tighter after the covers are hog ringed the whole way around. That's how I did these seats. The new foam was so thick, there was no way to hog ring the inner seams down without getting huge wrinkles and bunched up material. High-end upholstery shops use thick thread on custom covers to pull down the inner seams. Same concept, once the covers are secured around the outside, the strings are pulled tight to get the desired depth and then tied to keep them in place.
Do youself a favor now and send those buns back or throw them in the trash.
You are just starting to experience the pain installing them (and you're not done yet!), and you will be unhappy sitting on them later once they are back in the car as they are extremely stiff- your head will be in the headliner and gut against the wheel.
Go order American Cushion Industries buns from National Part Depot. They are the only ones on the market made like the oem ones were- SOFT. and they have the muslin cloths already glued on for attaching them as the originals were, and no stupid embedded rods to "make things easier". you attach the cover listings through the bun just like OEM buns.
If you MUST use those buns, Start by marking in the channels where you plan to attach the covers to them (i usually do it in 4 spots per channel) , then use a razor blade to open up a 1" or so opening around each mark exposing the embedded rod in the channel (don't expose too much especially at the ends or the rod can start working out and you don't want that!
Do this before you try to install the bun to the frame.It will make it a million times easier to attach the covers to those embedded rods.
Do the same thing where you plan to attach the bun itself down to the spring side listing rods (i'd probably do 2 per channel)
Don't try to catch the cover listings to the embedded bun rods AND to the spring side listings all with the same hogring... Just too hard to catch them all in one shot while keeping the buns from moving around on the frames at the same time.
Do the buns to the spring side first, then do the cover to the bun rods.
One more tip incase you don't already know- Pull the cardboard tubes out of the covers listing sleeves, and slide in a firm wire rod (like a coat hanger). This will prevent "Waves" forming in the finished cover where each hogring pulls the sleeve down, instead the rod in the sleeve creates a uniform tuck down the channel defining the bolster.
Last edited by RAMBOW; February 6th, 2022 at 07:47 PM.
Reason: just a little more info
I saw that you mentioned some broken springs... Be sure to look closely to make sure you find them all... Some are not as obvious as others.
All of this stuff is relatively easy to fix, don't be lured into buying new spring assemblies if you only have a couple breaks.
Do the ACI buns not need to be hog ringed in the center since there are no grooves in the foam like the original? Is the fabric on the foam used to attach the foam to the frame?
Thanks!
Crimson:
Thanks for starting this thread, it is very timely for me as I need to recover the rear seat in my '72 442 convertible. This is good info!
Ben:
You seemed to have formed a strong opinion about upholstery products & methods. I'm curious to know, do they make pre-cut "buns" for the back seat (like they the bucket seats) or do you buy bulk foam and trim it down to fit? I have the vinyl seat covers (from PUI) but i need to buy the burlap, foam & hog rings. Is it really necessary to use the hog ring pliers or can you do this with regular pliers or channel locks?
Thanks for sharing with us newbies.
Rodney
Rodney,
Do yourself a favor and buy a hog ring pliers. These are spring loaded so they keep the hog ring in the jaws while you are pulling everything into the position you want it. It will be almost impossible to try to keep the hog ring between the jaws of a regular pliers especially while pulling everything tight. I suppose you could cut a groove in a regular pliers but they would still not be spring loaded. So for $14 with 150 hog rings included these are well worth the cost. I beleive you said you were sending the buckets out to an upholstery shop for custom covers, so 150 should be enough if you are only doing the back seat. https://www.ebay.com/itm/30397177287...gAAOSwxXZceisz
Last edited by Loaded68W34; March 8th, 2022 at 06:12 PM.
Agree on the hog ring pliers. They are specific for hog rings and make the job a lot easier. Not only do the grooves hold the ring, but the pliers are designed to close the ring properly when squeezed.
I bought these from Eastwood, saved my bacon and wrists over a few hundred hog rings. I did my 67 C/S front buckets and rear seat and was damm happy. Good luck I used the bent pliers the most.
Wow, thanks for all the good vendor info for the hog ring pliers. Are the angled pliers easier to use than the straight ones? I'm still having a difficult time locating the correct foam for the rear seat. Not sure if I should use bulk foam or a pre-formed foam piece, and what about the foam density? I seriously hate doing things twice, so don't want to order the wrong material for this project. Can anyone recommend a good source for foam and burlap material?
Thanks!
Rodney
I used the angle pliers about 80% of the time, pre-formed foam is they the way to go. You’ll get the factory look your time deserves. I got mine from OPGI years ago for my bucket seats and the stuff for the back seat from fabric store. Good luck
February 6th, 2022, 12:47 PM
