Removing plastic part of dash on 68 Cutlass Supreme
November 8th, 2012, 09:05 AM
#1
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Removing plastic part of dash on 68 Cutlass Supreme
Hi guys, I want to hydrographic all the plastic piece in my car with a carbon fiber pattern, I was wondering how complex it is to remove the front plastic portion of the dash like in the picture. Is it something you want to only do when doing a full interior restoration?
November 8th, 2012, 09:30 AM
#2
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Location: Seneca Falls, NY
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Hi guys, I want to hydrographic all the plastic piece in my car with a carbon fiber pattern, I was wondering how complex it is to remove the front plastic portion of the dash like in the picture. Is it something you want to only do when doing a full interior restoration?
There's some good info on removing the dash here:
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/...ic.php?t=82024
Last edited by allyolds68; November 8th, 2012 at 09:37 AM.
November 8th, 2012, 09:54 AM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
easy as pie
unbolt the fusebox from the firewall, and unplug the parts that go to the floor cable, courtesy lights & switches, park brake, dimmer switch, heater stuff, etc. Speedo Cable.
Remove the glovebox and steering column. Might as well take the seats out for easy access, unless you are young and/or slim.
Remove all the dash pal nuts and pull out the dash/ wiring assembly after disconnecting all the things you missed before.
Take all the switches out - it helps to have the special tool for the ign and wiper bezels but turning the switch while convincing the bezel CCW by hand works too. Undo all the gage pods- remove the connectors from the pins super carefully and maybe spray lube 'em first. Undo all the clips holding the wiring to the dash.
Then just remove the dash plastic from the dash pad.
Maybe an hour, tops
It might be better to buy a 2nd dash plastic and work your magic on that, then swap the pcs out in one session so the memory of what goes where is fresh. Otherwise, TAKE MANY PHOTOS. Especially of the ENDS of wires- where they go to. And the wire holders.
unbolt the fusebox from the firewall, and unplug the parts that go to the floor cable, courtesy lights & switches, park brake, dimmer switch, heater stuff, etc. Speedo Cable.
Remove the glovebox and steering column. Might as well take the seats out for easy access, unless you are young and/or slim.
Remove all the dash pal nuts and pull out the dash/ wiring assembly after disconnecting all the things you missed before.
Take all the switches out - it helps to have the special tool for the ign and wiper bezels but turning the switch while convincing the bezel CCW by hand works too. Undo all the gage pods- remove the connectors from the pins super carefully and maybe spray lube 'em first. Undo all the clips holding the wiring to the dash.
Then just remove the dash plastic from the dash pad.
Maybe an hour, tops
It might be better to buy a 2nd dash plastic and work your magic on that, then swap the pcs out in one session so the memory of what goes where is fresh. Otherwise, TAKE MANY PHOTOS. Especially of the ENDS of wires- where they go to. And the wire holders.
November 8th, 2012, 10:01 AM
#4
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Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,291
November 8th, 2012, 11:26 AM
#5
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Posts: 901
November 9th, 2012, 04:56 AM
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Thats what I recommend.Buy a donor from Ebay .Craigs list one fo our friends on Classic Olds.That way you will get to know the locations of all pf the studs.And you can experiment..I restore 66/67 IPs but am looking to expand into the 68 -72 ...Let me know if I can help
Ron Roth
586-556-1234
Ron Roth
586-556-1234
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