1972 Cutlass S
This was originally an air conditioned car. Deleting the air, but retaining all of the switches, duct work, ect. Removed a/c evaporator and compressor.
Would like your suggestions on an a/c box delete on firewall so that I may keep my heater motor?
Will the original dash heat and air selector / switch still operate my heater and defrost.
Also, if I retain my ductwork... which aftermarket kick panels should I use? I have 6-1/2" speakers to install in the kicks.

 

The heat-only system uses cables from the control head to operate the flapper doors in the HVAC box. the A/C system used vacuum actuators. If you retain the A/C under-dash box, you MUST retain the A/C control head on the dash. If you swap to a heat-only under dash box you MUST use the heat-only control head.

Of course, if you retain the A/C control head, you must retain the vacuum connection to the engine and the vacuum ball on the firewall. The blower motor works electrically either way. The available aftermarket A/C delete ducting for the engine side of the firewall mates with the A/C under-dash unit and retains the heat and defrost functions.

 

Thank You Joe, I would like to become more knowledgeable regarding this procedure. Where might I find literature about this change?

 

Unfortunately, there isn't any real "literature". The Chassis Service Manual for your car will show you how the heat-only and A/C versions of the hardware are configured. The Assembly Manual shows the details of how various parts mount and where the cutouts in the firewall need to be located. The aftermarket vendors who sell the A/C delete boxes presumably offer instructions, but I have not used one of those.

 

Order one of these. I used to have one before installing Vintage Air but recently sold it. You need to save the low speed resistor from the stock system and it's a good time to replace the fan motor too. Inner fender liner has to come out to install.
http://www.acdelete.com/pages/68-72_A-Body.htm

Replacement kick panels with 6.5" holes are available from all the restoration sites and probably ebay. My guess is they all come from same supplier. The plastic is a bit glossier than stock but a decent way to unobtrusively add modern stereo speakers without serious mods.
https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/CH28448/

 

Instructions come with the ac delete cover and are online too. Basically your existing AC head and heater/flapper box are left to work as they do now so keep the round vacuum canister on the firewall. With the temp slider set to cool you get ambient air and you get heat if you slide it to the warm side. No de-humidifying on defrost of course, just warm air. You do not get a full supply of outside air like from the kick panel vents on a non-AC car.

It's a compromise but I like it if you have no plans to restore the factory AC. No AC of course but not the same ventilation as a non-AC car. Huge clean up of the passenger side of the engine bay and seems like a hundred pounds of parts removed but end up with alternator and power steering on the same side with no offsetting belt tension. I would get a little PS belt squeal if not real tight and same people say this could stress the water pump bearings.

 

The reality is that this is not true. Even with all three belts in place, there is significant side load on the pump bearings. It just happens to be a resultant load that is down towards the crank.

 

Thanks, I guess what I was worried about the most was air dumping in the back side of the kick panels and ruining my 6-1/2's.

 

That's what I thought but was trying to think of any potential downside to doing this. Do a search for Joe's write up on the proper way to tension the PS belt -- it cured the slight squeal i would get under hard acceleration. (now the only squeal I get is related to tire traction )

 

I have the Assembly Manual and the Fisher Body Service Manual. The Assembly Manual shows pics of a/c and non a/c. But the Fisher Body Service Manual shows nothing.