Looking for input from people as to what after maker door panels you have installed, as well as your likes and dislikes, I want to replace mine and the costs very but are the all made in the same factory, is the quality from Legendary that different from PUI or others that cost less.

Thanks in advance for your comments
Mark

 

I'm looking for exactly the same advice. Unfortunately nobody responded to your post.

 

They ARE NOT ALL MADE in the same factory. PUI makes their own and Legendary makes their own.

With that said, Legendary's door panels are far better than PUI's. Price likely reflects it as well.

Are Legendary's door panels "perfect"??? No. They have a thicker panel board compared to the originals and PUI panels. That is great in terms of holding their flatness over time but can also be a problem when installing aftermarket manual window cranks. If you're getting new window cranks as well then get the better version that Ames Performance Engineering sells (Pontiac repro parts vendor). Get their PN F184KD handles ('69-77) at around $16 ea. vs any cheaper versions.

One big difference b/n the two brands is the vinyl woodgrain on the panels. PUI's are notorious for not-so-great adhesion of the vinyl woodgrain over the panel and they can wrinkle up, bubble or look like "curtains" over time. You may have seen this in numerous car auction interior pics. I've seen plenty of those pics where the woodgrain is "wrinkly" and those are PUI panels.

There can be problems w/the shape/design of the metal top "rails" on the Legendary panels (and possibly the PUI panels....haven't messed w/any PUI's myself in a long time). If you are really motivated I think you can still purchase
"un-assembled" door panels and transfer over your original metal top rails. Not a quick and easy task however.

These metal top rail problems aren't deal killers but figured I would mention it as well.

Overall, Legendary beats PUI when it comes to quality and looks.

 

Thanks for the information I might try to assemble them myself. I used PUI panels on my sons Chevelle add I had to re-glue the chrome mylar on the glue they used was terrible.

 

To elaborate on the shape of the top metal pieces, the radius of the bend is tighter than the stock ones which results in the pre stamped holes for clips, armrest, handles etc being slightly higher than they should be. Linear measurement is probably spot on, but in application not so much. Don't blindly open the holes based on those stampings.

I used a yellow paint pen to mark clips and centre points then hung the panel using the top rail and pressed it against everything to transfer the paint. Then you can see any adjustments you need to make before cutting.

If I were to do it again, I just might try assembling them myself using OEM metal. But I can also see where precision is key in that operation!

 

I believe you can send your original metal top "rails" to Legendary and they can install them into the new interior panels, that’s what I was planning to do when the time comes to order interior parts.

 

good suggestion/idea Hoffman.

 

Thanks to all contributors for the tips. I ordered the Legendary set before the comment on the upper metal piece was posted so we shall see what happens. Good advice about yellow paint to check the hole locations! Thank you all!

 

A related question: Does anybody have a preferred caulking for use in attaching the watershield which goes behind the door panels? The original used a "string caulk". The only thing similar to that which I can find is 3M Strip-Calk #8578 and TP Tools #TP-1070 Strip Caulk, both of which come in 12" strips. If I have to resort to a tube of caulk applied with a caulk gun, any preference to solvent-based vs urethane products? Brand names preferred?

Thanks in advance!!
Barry Griffin

 

Use the 3M or TPTools stuff in the 12" strips. Easy enough to "smush" the end of one strip onto/into the end of the next strip and form one piece of it. Check locally at auto parts stores or auto paint stores.....unless you can find a real good deal on the stuff online (remember shipping charges). DO NOT use a tube type calk....the strip caulk allows removal of the watershield later on should you need to get into the door...without tearing up the watershield material. A tube type calk won't allow that.

The factory used the strip caulk but just in never ending lengths apparently.