I came across this 68 Hurst for sale. I'm interested but I don't know enough to know whether it's a good deal or not, or what to look for to tell if it's authentic. I've not seen a 68 Hurst Olds up close before so was looking for some insight. The seller is asking $42K. Says its an almost complete rebuild. Motor was rebuilt before he got the car and so far I haven't gotten any information on what was done to the motor or by who. Below are some comments I got from him.
The motor was rebuilt pretty much when I bought it. It’s missing one piece of chrome on the hood and 2 turn signals in between the head lights. It still needs to be dyno tuned and the transmission needs to line up better with the Hurst shifter. I have extra parts that will make it faster but then you wouldn’t be able to close the hood. I also have new speakers that I haven’t installed yet. The radio is new and I added electronic instrument panel. Also missing 1 piece of chrome on 1 rim.

 

You need a lot more pics, VIN, body cowl tag, trans numbers for starters.

 

Make sure it’s in the registry.

to pick it apart a little based on one picture....

it looks a little unfinished. The side stripe looks too wide, wheels are done incorrectly. Wheel well moldings are missing. I’m almost positive all the 68 H/O got heavy duty cooling and that one has a non heavy duty cooling radiator top plate. Obviously the radiator isn’t original.

 

The main thing on a '68 H/O is the H/O only "Z-Z" paint code on the cowl tag & of course it has to be a Lansing built car, (M in the vin, LAN on the cowl tag) But it looks like there's lots of "incorrect" things about the car. The black stripes are too wide, the H/O badges are too high, no wheel opening trim, Wrong wheels ( later ones with snap on center caps) It looks like the rad top plate is wrong also. I'd definitely look for the partial vin on the left front pad on the block & on the trans. Does it have the "D" heads??.

 

As others have noted, lots and lots of questions raised by one small photo. I see incorrect wheels (the originals were 14x6), aluminum radiator, aftermarket master cylinder, incorrect stripe, panel alignment issues, etc, etc. It may be a nice car, but be sure it's real and that the quality of build matches the price you pay.

 

Thank you all for your excellent feedback. As always, I get a lot of knowledgeable information from this site and it is well appreciated.

I may be driving to help my brother on a project in the next couple of weeks and that would take me through where this car is located so If I do, I'll try to get a look at it, and will also try to call the guy and get some of this information as well, before stopping by there. Even if I do go and see the car, now I know what to look for. Some of the things mentioned (vin plate, registry etc.) are stuff I'd have already known but I might have missed other specifics you guys have mentioned.

Thank you,
Jack

 

Any documentation such as the original window sticker, Demmer paperwork, etc...= Gold for a true H/O.
It looks like a W45.
If the #396021 F Block 455 and OW code TH400 trans case partial VIN numbers match the dash VIN you are getting closer.
Should have D heads on Non A/C car. But some have surfaced with Cs. The distributor, carb, etc will be specific.

No 68 H/O was built before the 3rd week of May or after the 2nd week in July.
The LAN cowl tag date should range from O5C to O7B. No exceptions to this rule yet.

The Cowl tag should read ST68- 33687 LAN. The Cowl tag won't match the VIN.
For the VIN you should see a 344878M. If the VIN does not start out with 344 it is definitely not a 68 H/O.
All but 2 H/Os came with Black Bucket Seat TR940 interiors.
The FE2 suspension package should be there...because it is a 442.

If the car fits the general criteria above; Z-Z paint code, the right build date range with Lansing tags and the VIN matches the trans & engine, then forward VIN the here to authenticate--> http://www.hurstolds.com/
See the contact tab. Karl Sarpolis handles the 68s.

Remember if you cant prove it's an H/O you will have the same problem when you sell it.

 

I was able to talk to the seller on the phone for a few minutes during lunch but didn't get all my questions answered yet. I will try to talk to him again maybe this evening.

I did learn that the car IS NOT a true HO. Its a clone. He believes it was originally a 442 that was converted to HO by the mechanic/company that he bought the car from. He isn't very educated in the mechanics of it. He doesn't know what the motor came out of and at first he thought the 442 had a 455. But I discussed with him that the 68 442 would have had a 400 cu. in. motor. I think he thought the 442 and HO had the same motor in 1968 but wasn't too clear in the end what he thought. He said he had a larger radiator put in it, but again that doesn't fully add up with the pic and previous comments already stated above. I asked if it was a 3 row or 4 row and he didn't know. I told him I thought $42K was pretty strong for a clone and he mentioned that he had over $37k in it. Of course we all know what you put into one of these projects has potentially no bearing or impact on what it's worth at the end and it's common to cost more to build one than to buy a similar product.

He did say he would try to get me a pic of the cowl vin tag and the numbers off the motor so I can at least get a clue as to what the motor came out of, whether it is even actually a 442 original starting point, etc., but given what I know now, I'm wondering whether I'm really looking to go this way in either event. Maybe, but not clear right now and if I do, I'm sure I won't be looking at giving $42K for it.

Thanks again,
Jack

 

FYI, every 1968 H/O was converted from a 442 - they all have 344xxx VINs.

If possible, get the VIN derivative stamp off the block, which will tell you the exact year of the block.

 

Right they were all converted from 442s, but by Hurst before they were sold originally not converted by some guy 50 years later .

So it does seem to match up with that (conversion from 442) and is a Lansing car with a 344xxx vin. Its a G2 paint code which is presumably consistent with what he told me original paint was gold. Trim code 944. I'll try to upload the cowl tag and some of the other pictures, I asked him to get a pic of the numbers stamped on the block and he sent a pic of some numbers cast into the head right next to the headers. So even if the block is originally something desirable another pic shows that the heads are Edelbrock which he confirmed on the phone tonight, he already told me that the intake manifold is Edelbrock and it has had a couple of different carbs on it during his tenure, so I'm quickly losing interest. The dash has aftermarket gauges in the original gauge spots for oil pressure, battery, tach, etc. The dash pad was cracked up he said and he wrapped it with sometype of cover designed to cover that, but it wasn't truly restored. There is a few pics of the aluminum radiator and such and it has an electric fan mounted on the radiator. I mentioned that the stripes were too wide and he said he literally had a matchbox or hot wheels car of a Hurst Olds and took it to the paint shop and they were able to look up the paint code for the Peruvian silver and that's how it was painted to look like the toy. Scaling up from that I'm surprised they got even close as they did. Lots of issues. He said it does have the dual gate shifter but it apparently isn't hooked up right because it shifts the same in either side and he said it originally was a 4 speed car, he believes. So really more of a resto-mod than even an attempt at a H/O clone.

I will probably try to get by and see the car when I pass through there later this month but I'm not thinking it will be worth to me, what he wants for it. He said he'd consider coming down to 39K. Maybe I could work him down from that but still a lot of money and not truly what I'm wanting. If a H/O clone at least I'd want it to have Oldsmobile heads, intake and carb on the Olds block. If restomod is what someone wants, the car may be worth that to someone. I try not to judge. He said his dad used to race a 68 Hurst Olds and he built the car hoping to get a pic of his dad in the car, but before he finished the car, his dad passed and now he doesn't really want to keep it anymore as it reminds him of that. But building it into a Restomod that was more race car than stock original was his intent because of his dad's history.

Thanks,
Jack

 

So these are the pics the seller sent me this evening on my phone. If I get a chance to see the car I'll try to get the vin numbers off the block to at least know what year motor it has for the block.

 

It is sharp. But I'm with you, I have better uses for $42K.

 

If its Arizona rust free... as in... you can lick the undercarriage, 20-25K tops.
42K for a spotless original 442, OK.
42K for a legit, original, everything intact, non-rust bucket, nice patina, condition 3, H/O driver, hell ya.

Hey, you do have a true 442 body/chassis there, nothing sucks about that.

It will be a fun car to not worry about and drive at 25k, you won't lose your shorts.
Put a Tremec 6spd stick in it and melt off the rear tires.

It looks clean.

 

Looking at the top plate for the radiator, is that the heavy duty cooling version?

 

I talked to owner a couple of months ago, he said is not real HO, way too much money for what is there.