My 69 cutlass needs new ball joints as they are very worn and noisy when going over bumps and potholes. I have never attempted anything like this before and was wondering how easy it would be for someone whos inexperienced. I read the procedure in the Chiltons repair manual and it doesnt seem too difficult, but i would like any additional advice or opinions before attempting this. Thanks.

 

Short answer: It's a pain in the rear for anyone, regardless of experience, but is entirely do-able if you're not in a hurry, and if you have some backup (torch, welder, etc.) just in case.

- Eric

 

X2 even the right tools its still a pain

 

Which joints are worn? Upper? Lower or both? Lower joints are not to bad. The uppers are a major pita. You can check by jacking the car up by the lower CA and then take a crow bar and move the wheel up and down to check for wear in the joints. Most of the time the wear is in the lower joint. While the wheel is off the ground try to rotate side to side to check for wear in the tie rod ends and idler.

 

They aren't that bad, just time consuming. You also need to do the upper and lower control arm bushings at the same time. If your springs are weak it's also a good time to replace them also. Oh, and you might as well replace your sway bar bushings also. Rock auto has the parts in Moog brand and are probably the least expensive in price, but it does not hurt to shop around.

 

If you really start the well I might as well do disc conversion tie rods , pitman, idler arm and gear box.

Any ways check everything and be prepared to do all bad parts while you have it apart really isn't that bad just a pain but will be well worth the time spent

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. I ordered ball joints, control arm bushings and sway bar bushings so they should be here within a few days. Hope i dont run into too many time consuming issues as this car is my dd.

 

Get al the appropriate tools on "free rental" at your local chain auto parts store to make the job go as fast as possible, and line up alternate transportation in case there's a snag and you have to get to work.

See Rpb's write up on doing this job, too.

- Eric

 

harbor freight might have the ball joint fork cheap if you cant find one to rent... jackstands a good prybar may be helpfull a heavy hammer, several whacks to separate the ball and a few whacks on the nut/stud and it should pop out for you. there are detailed instructions online in the wild about cars 69 service manual in case you don't have a service manual...of course GM used a ball joint removal tool that you probably wont find at the store

 

The most helpful tool in this project will be a BFH! (Big Freakin Hammer). It would also be helpful to keep a fifth of your favorite liqueur on hand to calm your nerves! Make sure you Schedule the job the day before confession. A good first Aide Box is a must. If your neighbors think you are a great guy then schedule to do this when they are out of town so they cannot witness you loose your mind.

All kidding a side take your time and make sure you let all the pressure off the spring safely with a jack or spring compressor. The job is not that bad as long as you are not in a rush and take a methodical approach. Good luck.

 

In my experience, squeaking is usually due to the bushings being bad, not the ball joints. Looks like you've got new ones coming anyway.

 

Speaking of that, is replacing the control arm bushings as simple as it looks (a bolt on each end) or is there something more to it? Btw, it looks like the ball joints are going to be much easier than I thought because someone has already replaced them at some point so I wont be drilling out any rivets.

 

No, not really. After you force the shaft out, you've got to force the bushings or shells out of the control arm itself.

Much easier with the right tool, though.

- Eric

 

You can make one of those tools out of a deepwell socket, a washer and a nut and bolt. I have one in my toolbox and and it's worked every time for me. BF Hammers can damage the steering knuckle and sometimes you can beat on the steering knuckle or ball joint stud forever and it still won't pop the stud loose. Always leave the nut on and just partially loose, don't want the stud letting go and having the coil spring fly out and going through your skull, or even worse, damaging the car.
People heal, cars don't.

 

I just did my ball joints I'm not new to working on cars but this is the first time I did them on an older car. It took me 5 hrs. To do upper and lower ball joints, and all new steering components, springs too. Having air tools helps a lot. I like to use a big pry bar to put pressure on the ball joint as a give the kunckle and the top of the ball joint a whack with a 3 lb sledge makes it easier to seperate.

 

I did this job about 2 years ago.
Here is the writeup - take a look to see what you are getting into. This will help you to decide whether to do it yourself or take the parts to someone else to do for you:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post264807
The fun starts about halfway down the page.
Check out the parts list at the top.
Make sure you get the wheel bearing parts if yours have not been done in the last 10 years or 50k miles. Inspect them while they are apart.
Check the brake parts, too.
Also, REPLACE the upper A-arm shaft to frame bolts if they look original - they are prone to breaking after years of abuse by alignment shops. When they break, the wheel falls off. I found out by experience that is bad. They can be found at Olds and Chevy parts suppliers (used on Cutlass, Chevelle, and 68-69 Camaros).
I had replaced mine a couple years back, so they are not on the list.
Do all this at once, so you do not have an issue later and have to rerepeat any of this work.

 

Thanks, Rob.
I had mentioned your excellent write up, but was too lazy to find the link.

- Eric