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the best heads for a 455 olds?

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Old May 23rd, 2012, 06:14 PM
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the best heads for a 455 olds?

I have a 1975 olsdmobile 455 motor, and I dont know much about heads but I think I have "J" heads or whatever one's are the worst. Should I look for heads from a older 455 to rebuild or try to save money up for aluminum heads?

P.S. I'm really just looking for good street performance.
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 08:36 PM
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Heads

Yeah sorry to say but those "J" heads are pretty much junk. You should look for a set of large valve "C" castings. They are readily available as cores for roughly $200. Depending on what they will need you can ad at least $500 to that for new valves and a good 3 angle valve job. Hopefully they won't need guides or seats. You might want to call Cody here-
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/...ic.php?t=82138
He's a good guy with plenty of good cores, and the knowledge to help you. It's too bad the cast iron heads are so heavy, they cost a lot to ship. If you are ready to step up to aluminum you might want to check out the new Pro Comps. The price is reasonable-
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/...ic.php?t=79326
Lastly, if you really want to wake up your engine you should ditch the low compression pistons and get a hotter cam. You might want to talk to Mark (Culassefi) about that. He's helped a lot of us on here choose the right custom cam for our specific aplications.
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 08:57 PM
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C, E, G, & GA heads are all good easy to find heads, of those, there are some specifics to be noted.
C & E heads have shallower spring pockets because they weren't designed for use with valve rotators, G and later had the valve rotators which helped extend valve life. i skipped the best heads because they're too expensive/hard to find for your needs.


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Old May 24th, 2012, 04:03 AM
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I have a set of E heads need rebuilding would sell for 100 buck plus shipping.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 07:49 AM
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B & Ka

Originally Posted by BILL DEMMER
C, E, G, & GA heads are all good easy to find heads, of those, there are some specifics to be noted.
C & E heads have shallower spring pockets because they weren't designed for use with valve rotators, G and later had the valve rotators which helped extend valve life. i skipped the best heads because they're too expensive/hard to find for your needs.


bill
Add to this list the 1966 B heads from Toro (39 deg) & the Ka heads. Both are big valve versions with flow characteristics that meet or excede any other big valve olds head.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 07:20 AM
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Big valve A heads are the best in untouched form.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 07:22 AM
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Here is a head flow comparison.

http://nichibei.tripod.com/headflow.htm
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Old June 19th, 2012, 07:53 AM
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That link shows exactly what I would expect to see. The A,B, and C heads are identical on the intake and the A's are a little better on the exhaust.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Looking at the flow chart comparing all the heads there is little difference from the best(C) to the worst(J). Remember the later G ,Ga etc heads have hardened valve seats making them more compatible for no lead. For the small difference in price I would go with new aluminum heads. Your choice Pro Comp or Edelbrock. The flow figures given on the previous posts show little difference between Edel or Pro Comp
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Old June 19th, 2012, 08:40 AM
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I'd think J heads wouldn't be that bad in a low revving street driven engine.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 10:09 AM
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"J" heads flow stalls abpve .400 lift so a mild cam won't show much difference between them.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 10:11 AM
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J is for junk
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Old June 19th, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AZ455
I'd think J heads wouldn't be that bad in a low revving street driven engine.
That may be true but why bother when there are so many better alternatives readily available for not that much? You will still have to put money into the J's to freshen them up
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Old June 19th, 2012, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by droptopron
That may be true but why bother when there are so many better alternatives readily available for not that much? You will still have to put money into the J's to freshen them up
True. I wouldn't put any money into the J's either, just run 'em til I could replace them. Which is exactly what I am doing.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 04:26 PM
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Shipping ain't cheap either. If you are still looking, I will see what I have if you want to come to Vegas some time.
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Old June 20th, 2012, 01:51 PM
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When I built my 455(.30 over) in the 90's, used Dave Smith S-S W30 heads. Not sure what factory cores he started with, but chambers are fully polished and cc'd. Lightly ported and gasket matched intake runners. Also upgraded to his adjustible valvetrain kit, so just like setting up a Chevy or Pontiac. Don't have any flow numbers, but with .560 lift cam and port matched intake, thing's making some power. Recall, when Dave shipped these, was one per box, so no problem UPS.
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Old June 20th, 2012, 03:38 PM
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getitman-
We took a stock '75 455 engine from a 442, added an Edelbock Performer intake and did a 3 angle valve job, filled the crossovers and did a mild port job on the heads. We added the larger 1970 442 exhaust manifolds and put it in my son's '75 Pontiac Grand Am (4400 lbs. with him in it) With 2.56 gears and a Turbo 400, this boat covered the quarter in 14.84 seconds, better than my friends '70 442 convertible with 3.08 gears who clicked off a 15.05. We did not have much invested either
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Old July 12th, 2012, 06:45 PM
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is there really a noticable difference with the stock in take and performer?
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Old July 25th, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Back on the flow rate link data, I'm betting that these numbers are for ONE test each, right? I find it hard to believe that the D and F heads are that much worse than earlier heads - why bother using them if they are? The reality is that any mass-produced casting has a pretty wide manufacturing tolerance and you'd need to test a statistically viable sample size to draw any conclusion other than they are all equivalent. Any one little casting flash bump can cause the differences in the chart. Bottom line is that with a mild cleanup, ALL Olds heads (J included) will flow about the same. Keep the J heads, put the money into porting, and you've got a sleeper.
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Old July 25th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Agree with "joe" on certain things as production head tolerances were all over the place. Chamber volume variances from cylinder to cylinder could vary quite a bit, and why important to have the heads cc'd. Keep in mind, properly worked on factory heads may outflow Edelbrock Aluminum heads, but could end up costing several time more, and still be much heavier.
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Old July 30th, 2012, 05:45 PM
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I have some J's getting refreshed right now.
Not sure what the final cost will be, depends on the work they need.

If they don't sell as J's in a couple weeks they will become F's or D's and see what happens.
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Old August 25th, 2012, 07:19 AM
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I have a set. If I get the number off of them, can you identify what size they are? I belive they are 455 but not sure. My Father had them rebuilt but he past acouple months ago. I have been looking for any papers he left that mit tell me what they are. I do know they were out of his Olds 98 1975 or 76.
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Old August 25th, 2012, 11:26 AM
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What is a set of pressure tested Ka heads with Valves, rocker arms, and spriings worth?
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Old August 25th, 2012, 11:33 AM
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"J" heads are great for use on the 455 in the GMC Motor homes. Low rpm and high torque. It is what came on them and it is also most recommended. Cam change
was recommended by Mondello.
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Old August 31st, 2012, 06:29 PM
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Im interested, please call me

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Old September 9th, 2012, 08:08 PM
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The A heads with the larger valves, I personally would run aluminum, much easier to produce flow
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Old December 16th, 2022, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BILL DEMMER
C, E, G, & GA heads are all good easy to find heads, of those, there are some specifics to be noted.
C & E heads have shallower spring pockets because they weren't designed for use with valve rotators, G and later had the valve rotators which helped extend valve life. i skipped the best heads because they're too expensive/hard to find for your needs.


bill
Interesting. I know I've seen an Olds ad that stated 1970 Toronado had valve rotators. Those all had E heads.
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Old December 22nd, 2022, 05:29 PM
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Don't be afraid of small valve C heads. My car ran 12.60's with 455, stock small valve C heads, Sealed Power 10.5:1 forged pistons, Crane .496" lift 232 duration cam, iron intake with Q jet.
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Old December 22nd, 2022, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtacious
Interesting. I know I've seen an Olds ad that stated 1970 Toronado had valve rotators. Those all had E heads.
All E heads came with Rotators

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Old December 22nd, 2022, 07:12 PM
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I have a good pair of core Ga heads You can have for $150. I'm about 2 hours south of you on I 35 near Wichita. Drive down and get them..no shipping.
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Old December 23rd, 2022, 01:14 PM
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The BEST heads are obviously aftermarket. As others pointed out, all the heads with the exception of the J casting flow about the same.

The question to ask is what’s the best bang for the buck? Machine work and parts get expensive fast, aftermarket heads are an easy 40hp bolt on. If the iron heads needs a bunch of machine work, things like guides, valves, new seats installed, plus some porting, it’s not hard to approach the cost of aftermarket.
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Old February 13th, 2024, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 4+4+2=10
I have a good pair of core Ga heads You can have for $150. I'm about 2 hours south of you on I 35 near Wichita. Drive down and get them..no shipping.
Do you still have these? If so, I will take them. Willing to pay shipping. Thanks.
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Old February 14th, 2024, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jj77firebird
Do you still have these? If so, I will take them. Willing to pay shipping. Thanks.
And another thread revived from the DEAD FILEs.
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