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1968 Cutlass convertible. Horn doesn't work from horn button. Narrowed it down to the horn button. (horns and relay work fine) Took off the horn steering wheel cap, and surprise, there is a loose spring assembly.
It appears there is a round white plastic assembly with a sleeve missing for the horn.
I have a 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass parts car. Question: Can I use the internal parts in the 1968?
I've removed the steering wheel, removed the three little screws, and there is a black plate with slots over the top of the horn spring ring that doesn't want to come off easily. Is there something else holding it on?
With the horn button off, there are two wire from the side buttons attached to a spring assembly which if=s floating under the button.
So you DON'T have picture #1, you have picture #2 if you have side buttons and wires.
The wires with spring and contact go into the tube on the cancel cam. The plastic retainer, well, retains it in there. This is shown in figure 9A-4 in the 1968 Chassis Service Manual.
This photo is a 1966 wheel, but your horn contact wires should be routed the same.
Thank you very much for the pictures. Yes, similar to the 66.
Horn wires are attached together and loose inside the cap and all is connected to a spring assembly. It does not go down the steering wheel at this point. Is the 69 horn assembly the same or different?
What part of the 1969 "horn assembly" are you trying to use? The 1969 steering column is different from 1968. The diameter is larger due to the locking feature and the need to put the lock cylinder in the column. Most parts do not work in a 68 column. A photo of your current column would help determine exactly what is wrong, rather than playing 20 questions.
Below are the pictures of the steering wheels from the 1968 Cutlass (one round centre button and two side horn bars) and the 1969 Cutlass (one large horn button). The part I am missing from the 1968 appears to be a round white plastic ring that goes under the steering wheel and has a tube running up to the wiring.
The part you need is called a turn signal cancel cam. They are available repro. They are different for tilt and non-tilt. 67-68 is different from 69-up.
CAM, Turn Signal Switch Cancel, replaces original GM p/n 399294, ... 1967-1968 CHEVELLE CHEVELLE, EL CAMINO AND MALIBU WITH OR W/O TILT WHEEL.
The description says they are the same for non-tilt and tilt. Is this right? I want to get it right, because the shipping/ customs, and exchange more than quadruple the cost.
CAM, Turn Signal Switch Cancel, replaces original GM p/n 399294, ... 1967-1968 CHEVELLE CHEVELLE, EL CAMINO AND MALIBU WITH OR W/O TILT WHEEL.
The description says they are the same for non-tilt and tilt. Is this right? I want to get it right, because the shipping/ customs, and exchange more than quadruple the cost.
The factory parts book shows different P/Ns for tilt and non-tilt. Aftermarket vendors are always trying to cut costs by making one part fit multiple applications. Maybe they've got a cancel cam that fits both, but other vendors like Fusick, OER, and NPD list different cams for tilt and non-tilt.
And now off to figure out why drivers window just went down and wont go back up. None of the other windows are working now. I checked fuses, removed the drivers door panel and checked the back of the drivers switch, now on to the relay which I understand will be difficult to get to above the left drivers kick panel. I understand I have to shape myself like a pretzel...GOT IT! Now on to the new alternator, which has decided not to charge - under warranty, I hope...
Last edited by PaulR; Jul 17, 2022 at 06:04 AM.
Reason: got windows fixed, now alternator
And now off to figure out why drivers window just went down and wont go back up. None of the other windows are working now. I checked fuses, removed the drivers door panel and checked the back of the drivers switch, now on to the relay which I understand will be difficult to get to above the left drivers kick panel. I understand I have to shape myself like a pretzel...GOT IT! Now on to the new alternator, which has decided not to charge - under warranty, I hope...
The power windows are fed from a circuit breaker on the firewall, not from the fuse panel. Did you verify that there's power at the breaker?