Converting Manual Steering to Power Steering
Converting Manual Steering to Power Steering
1969 442, replacing manual gearbox with power steering.
The rag joint--looks to be pressed onto the shaft on the steering column. Should I just leave it and bolt the steering box side of my new rag joint to it or do I need to take it off and replace the whole thing?
The rag joint--looks to be pressed onto the shaft on the steering column. Should I just leave it and bolt the steering box side of my new rag joint to it or do I need to take it off and replace the whole thing?
I did this swap to my 69 probably 30 years ago, it’s easy.
The rag joint is bolted to the column flange with a couple fine thread 5/16 bolts and nuts. The other end of the rag joint bolts to the gearbox with a single bolt.
Obviously, you need a power steering gearbox. the easiest swap is another A body power steering box. I I originally used stuff from a 68 Cutlass. Find a 68-72 Olds power steering donor car, get the gearbox, rag joint, pump, special power steering bolts and spacers (take notes how everything fits together) and transfer to your car.
After many years with the factory stuff, I decided to install a faster ratio gearbox. That gets rid of the one finger “powerful steering” and gives a much better road feel. You can use 3 gen F body (only issue is a slight reduction in turning radius, the internal steering stops are closer together) G body (I used a gearbox from a 86 442) or jeep Cherokee (I don’t know the specifics) no matter what box you use, the A body pitman arm will need to be transferred to the donor gearbox.
If you use the later gearbox, you need to use a rag joint from a late 70s/ early 80 square body truck. The later gearboxes use a different input shaft than the early A body box. The truck rag joint will adapt the factory steering column to the later gearbox.
Last hurdle to clear with the later model gearbox install is the power steering hoses. The early A body uses flare fittings, the later boxes use hoses with O-rings. There are places you can buy little aluminum drop in seats to provide a place for the original flared hoses to seal against. As crazy as it sounds, the original SAE hose ends will thread into the late model metric hose fitting. Another option is to have custom hoses made. Anyplace that repairs hydraulic hoses should be able to make something that will fit.
I think I got my hose adapters from Lee Power Steering? They were pretty cheap, cheaper than buying hoses.
Hope that helps.
The rag joint is bolted to the column flange with a couple fine thread 5/16 bolts and nuts. The other end of the rag joint bolts to the gearbox with a single bolt.
Obviously, you need a power steering gearbox. the easiest swap is another A body power steering box. I I originally used stuff from a 68 Cutlass. Find a 68-72 Olds power steering donor car, get the gearbox, rag joint, pump, special power steering bolts and spacers (take notes how everything fits together) and transfer to your car.
After many years with the factory stuff, I decided to install a faster ratio gearbox. That gets rid of the one finger “powerful steering” and gives a much better road feel. You can use 3 gen F body (only issue is a slight reduction in turning radius, the internal steering stops are closer together) G body (I used a gearbox from a 86 442) or jeep Cherokee (I don’t know the specifics) no matter what box you use, the A body pitman arm will need to be transferred to the donor gearbox.
If you use the later gearbox, you need to use a rag joint from a late 70s/ early 80 square body truck. The later gearboxes use a different input shaft than the early A body box. The truck rag joint will adapt the factory steering column to the later gearbox.
Last hurdle to clear with the later model gearbox install is the power steering hoses. The early A body uses flare fittings, the later boxes use hoses with O-rings. There are places you can buy little aluminum drop in seats to provide a place for the original flared hoses to seal against. As crazy as it sounds, the original SAE hose ends will thread into the late model metric hose fitting. Another option is to have custom hoses made. Anyplace that repairs hydraulic hoses should be able to make something that will fit.
I think I got my hose adapters from Lee Power Steering? They were pretty cheap, cheaper than buying hoses.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by matt69olds; Feb 10, 2021 at 05:58 AM.
A couple of things to add here. First, on many of the factory rag joints, the two bolts are different diameters on the shank. This is so that the rag joint can only go on one way to preserve proper clocking of the steering wheel. Second, the pitman arm for the manual box is different than the one for the power box because the pitman shaft on the box is a different diameter.
Hmm, I must have swapped the manual gearbox for the power gearbox, and not mess with the pitman arms. Like I mentioned, I did that swap almost 30 years ago, I have slept a lot since then!! Some of the details have slipped my mind.
Matt, and Joe, thank you for the feedback.
It was all coming together until I opened the new steering box (box) from Classic Performance Products, and discovered they sent me an unacceptable steering box. Rust, missing a cover, and just generally lame. So it's on hold until I get them to replace it.
It was all coming together until I opened the new steering box (box) from Classic Performance Products, and discovered they sent me an unacceptable steering box. Rust, missing a cover, and just generally lame. So it's on hold until I get them to replace it.
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