Working on a 1968 442 with a stock axle (BOP 10 bolt)

Looking into correcting thrust angle issue and a slight list to one side in the rear. Rear suspension looks to be all original, and it's about time for the annual spring project, so you see where I'm going here... I guess rear arms aren’t serviceable, so planning on replacing all four arms, all the hardware, and bushings. Already replaced springs and shocks when I did the front suspension a couple years back.

A few questions:

Is it worth making any upgrades (adjustable arms, bigger sway bar, urethane bushings etc.)? I was under the impression that the stock 442 suspension was pretty decent for the era. I kept the front stock when I did it and I've been pretty satisfied with the results.

Is any of this actually likely to fix my thrust angle issue? Its -.2° off, not much but noticeable. Alignment guy didn’t seem to think it was worth mentioning, but then again, he made it clear at the time that he wasn’t really committed to doing a great job.

And as always, any advice?

 

The control arm bushings are available at your local autoparts store or at any online vendor.

 

The stock axle for a 1968 442 was the Type O (12 bolt cover, ten bolt 8.5" ring gear) for US-built cars or a Chevy 12 bolt for Canadian built cars. If your car has a BOP 10 bolt (whatever that is - 8.2"? 8.5"?) it is not stock and the car has been altered.

 

You guessed incorrectly. As stated previously, the control arm bushings are available from the local auto parts store and multiple online retailers. The only thing you have to be careful of is crushing the arms when pressing the bushings in/out. You can make a support out of a section of pipe (exhaust pipe would work) that fits into the gap in the arm and is cut laterally so it can "wrap" around the bushing while you press the bushing in/out.

 

Sorry, I was just trying to differentiate it from the C axle, it is, unfortunately, a type “O” R7 code axle with 2.56 gears . If I had a bit more money around I’d be swapping the axle as well.

Nice, I was going with the CSM’s service recommendation on replacing them, but I’ll pull them off and if they look good It’ll just be wire wheel, paint and bushings.

 

You have a 1968 442 with a 2.56 rearend? That's the first time I have ever heard of a 2.56 on a 442. My condolences.

 

In 1968, the 2.56 axle was standard equipment (and only available) with RPO L65 Turnpike Cruiser option.

 

Yeah... pretty tall gears with the low compression and the detuned engine and the two barrel carb and... yeah... I'm not too happy about it either.

The guy I bought it from said he thought it had been a turnpike cruiser (he also said he was pretty sure it had 3.08 gears). I didn't really know what that meant at the time. I guess it was more of commuter's option. Kind of a 442 in name only. But I've got my fender badging and my "344" vin and a 455 swap so its just those gears that need some updating.

I've actually been thinking about doing some saving and picking up a Ford 9" from these guys: https://www.quickperformance.com/9-F...2_p_20386.html

The only nice thing about it having not been anything special from the factory is that I don't have to worry too much about driving it or keeping things all original.

 

For whatever reason I was not aware that the Turnpike Cruiser option could be had on the 442. I thought it was a Cutlass thing.

 

Its been a while since I educated myself about it, but I believe it was only a 442 in 68, prior to that and after it was part of the cutlass package

 

Any thoughts on the thrust angle issue?

 

Replace the rear suspension bushings. That may clear it up.

 

Finally got around to this project and finished up a week or so ago. Did the U-joints as well and added some frame triangulation bars.

Ended up replacing the control arms and had a really hard time finding a decent set, might make a separate post on that topic.

Wouldn't call the thrust angle issue solved, but there is a definite improvement: Before, I could straighten out the wheels and run a tape measure between some common reference points from the front to rear wheels and there was about a half inch difference between the driver's side and the passenger's. It's closer now, down to somewhere between a 1/4 inch and too close to tell. Still doesn't go down the road exactly straight. Probably going to have to find a decent alignment/frame shop in my area if I want to get closer.

New bushings (stock/rubber type) seem to be chirping a bit going over bumps at low speeds. Didn't use any grease on the rubber at installation, maybe they're just breaking in?

 

Hey Roth sounds like your making some good progress on your car.

if you didn't know you should wait until the weight of the car is on the suspension before tightening and torquing the UCAs and LCAs.

 

Hey Dean, yeah, feels like one step forward two steps back sometimes but bit by bit!

Don't know if I ever told you but I did get the rims and fan you sold me on the car eventually, both turned out really well!

I did torque the bushings at ride height. Ended up having to jack the axle up on stands to reach the UCA bolts. Torqued everything, then moved the stands to the frame to install the sway bar. But the height was on point.

 

Rubber bushings don't "break in". They require no grease.

If they're properly torqued and still noisy...they're defective, or you're hearing something else.

 

I read that greasing the faces of the bushings could cause squeaking. Didn’t do that, so the source must be elsewhere. I’ll re-torque everything as well and see if I can locate the source by rocking the car. Sounds more like metal on metal though.

The bushings that came in the arms were not quite what I’m used to seeing: the center portion which the bolt passed through was a bit wider than the rest of the bushing, not flat, so only the center most metal piece makes contact with the mounts. Seemed a little odd.

 

That's exactly why you don't need to grease the "face" of the rubber bushing.