Last year I rebuilt my entire front end, dialed in the alignment, and now my 1972 Cutlass rides great and is very solid. I have what I think is the typical "1 finger steering" for this car that is very sensitive (actually too sensitive to my liking) and I'd like to tighten it up. I'm not talking about play in the steering box but rather the over-sensitivity of the steering itself.

Did some research and found this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/899001/10002/-1

Does anyone have any experience with making this change to the power steering pump pressure and if so was it worth doing (and any tips)?

 

Did you replace the PS pump and PS gear when you rebuilt the front end? If so, I see no need to use this kit. I would think the kit is designed to boost the pressure in a worn PS pump. If you reduce the pressure in your PS pump below the specified value it might make steering more difficult, but it may also damage the pump or gear.

 

Didn't replace the PS pump or gear when I did the front end, and the front end work didn't change the sensitivity compared to what I experienced beforehand.

Actually the kit is used to reduce pressure (not increase it) from what I've read. I haven't read anything about the pump being damaged by this, but I share your concern. Per the manufacturer it reduces the pump pressure in steps (based on the # of shims) so you dial in what is best for you. Here's the instructions.

 

Even if you replaced the tie rods, idler arm and cenetr link you'll still feel slop in the old PS gear. Did you replace the rag joint? Those are all parts that will desensitize the steering feel if they're worn.

 

Maybe we're talking about two different things. I'm not saying I feel slop. The front wheels turn immediately with the steering wheel movement. It's not a case where I turn the wheel and there is an inch or two of play (slop as you call it?).

What I'm trying to deal with is the sensitivity itself. I can easily steer with 1 finger at highway speeds and it's just not comfortable. Trying to tighten things up a bit.

To answer your question, I did not replace the rag joint since I didn't see a need to. Maybe I should as a safety measure so that will go on the MAW list!

 

All of our cars are notorious for easy steering that was popular in the late 60s and early 70s. Unless you want to spend big bucks and go to an aftermarket rack and pinion or convert your car over to manual steering you'll probably always have that easy, super sensitive steering.

If you are considering buying that kit then definitely replace your rag joint and rebuild your PS pump. You MAW rebuild or replace your PS gear too while you're at it.

 

Yep - pretty much what I thought. Was hoping someone else tried this to see if it made any difference. That list of MAWs keeps growing and growing

 

Pressure reducers are intended for rack/pinion swaps. Racks need about 800psi, but the GM pumps put out 1200+psi.
Whether or not you'd get your desired result is .... questionable.

The more common answer is to buy a different steering gear. They have a component called a "t-bar" that determines the level of assist, plus there are different ratios. There's a ton of options, like the often discussed Jeep Grand Cherokee unit. There's various details but they've all be talked to death. OPGI also sells a new Saginaw unit that's similar to the Jeep box (same input and fittings), but is brand new Nexteer build. You can even send your current gear to one of several small rebuilders that will set it up however you want.

 

If you had your front end aligned using the factory caster settings the steering will feel really light. If you set it up using the most positive caster that the adjustment will allow it will be stiffer.

 

Agreed about the intended use, but many folks have used this to address over-sensitive feel as well. I had looked into the JGC steering box as well so I may ultimately go that route.

 

Did not know that. I had requested that they push the caster as positive as they could when I had it done. They said they did but I forget the final numbers.

 

If you do decide to swap out the boxes, Rock Auto has a direct bolt in that does not require any adapters to be used on the lines, and the price if very good.

 

That's what I used lares974 uses stock lines and pump comes w a new rag joint. 10:1 ratio firms up the steering to a modern feel, about $200 less if you return your olds box as a core

 

Thanks all for the great info. I have some choices to make.