Which Wideband Sensor?
#1
![Question](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Curious, as I want to get the best bang for my buck whenever possible, as there are literally scores available. I note many references using a Wideband O2 A/F ratio sensor in correctly tuning our beloved Rockets. Is there any general consensus regarding brand and/or model? What versions do you guys use? Any devils in the details regarding installation, use, interpretation of sensed data? Your thoughts?
#5
Using 170402 Gas duel sensor however Im only using one sensor.
You could probably use the 170401 for less cost.
Works great, has record and play back.
Note: when you have it hooked up, always turn it on to heat up or sensors will foul and not read correctly.
I only use it at the track and to tune. Remove sensor 90% of time.
You could probably use the 170401 for less cost.
Works great, has record and play back.
Note: when you have it hooked up, always turn it on to heat up or sensors will foul and not read correctly.
I only use it at the track and to tune. Remove sensor 90% of time.
#6
I have used Innovate, PLX and AEM in various vehicles. I liked the PLX and AEM for the simplicity, they worked very well. The Innovate widebands I used were always a bit fussy, I did really like the Logworks software though.
#9
Here’s the link: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/dlg1.php
Not affiliated with them, just good product.
cf
Not affiliated with them, just good product.
cf
#11
Here’s the link: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/dlg1.php
Not affiliated with them, just good product.
cf
Not affiliated with them, just good product.
cf
#12
Would like to hear what @cutlassefi uses or recommends as he is a big proponent of their use.
#13
To reawaken this thread:
Is there an optimum distance from the head in which a sensor should be placed? I've got Pypes 2.5" dual exhaust, with an X-Pipe. I'm wondering about placing a sensor bung in the X-pipe. Too far back? Should I instead look into placing bungs at each header collector?
This is in a '68 4-4-2 with (so far as I know) stock 400. It currently has a 7029253 carb on it. Eventually I want to replace the carb with a 'date correct' 7028251 carb that has 7028253 jets, rods, etc.
What do you guys think?
Is there an optimum distance from the head in which a sensor should be placed? I've got Pypes 2.5" dual exhaust, with an X-Pipe. I'm wondering about placing a sensor bung in the X-pipe. Too far back? Should I instead look into placing bungs at each header collector?
This is in a '68 4-4-2 with (so far as I know) stock 400. It currently has a 7029253 carb on it. Eventually I want to replace the carb with a 'date correct' 7028251 carb that has 7028253 jets, rods, etc.
What do you guys think?
#14
Regarding placement of the 02 sensors, the instructions have a recommendation about optimal distance from the exhaust manifold. I think it was 3 inches or so, but please consult the DLG1 documentation.
You’re also supposed to angle the sensor in a particular direction. I believe mine are more or less straight into the pipe at something more than 90 degrees.
For reference, my sensors are about 5 inches below the connection to the exhaust manifolds, not quite within spec, but they work well.
I’m no stickler about date coding carburetors, but if you are, I wish you good fortune in finding a good working correctly numbered carb.
Cheers
cf
You’re also supposed to angle the sensor in a particular direction. I believe mine are more or less straight into the pipe at something more than 90 degrees.
For reference, my sensors are about 5 inches below the connection to the exhaust manifolds, not quite within spec, but they work well.
I’m no stickler about date coding carburetors, but if you are, I wish you good fortune in finding a good working correctly numbered carb.
Cheers
cf
#15
Thank you, Mr. Fair. Sounds like I've got more reading to do before I pull the trigger. With the headers already installed, the farthest upstream I'm going to get will be the collectors. Several sources have them with the bungs already welded in for about $35/each. Now, do I go for a dual or a single sensor system?
Warning -Sidebar Topic
Am I allowed to hijack my own thread?
As for the carb; thanks for the kind wishes - I've got a couple '8251 cores already that I am beginning to clean, rebuild, restore. One has a 3207 date code, pretty close to what I need, and the other has 3457 (Dec 11), even closer. The car was assembled in the 5th week of December, 1967 (12E). However, December of '67 actually spanned 6 weeks, the 1st being on a Friday, and the 31st being on a Sunday. The OEM (I believe) distributor is dated 7K31.
There is likely discussion to be had whether the car was built Christmas week or the following New Year's week.
I've read that the weeks assigned by the codes always started on Sunday. If this is true, the car was actually assembled in the first week of '68. Things that make you go "Hmm..."
Warning -Sidebar Topic
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
As for the carb; thanks for the kind wishes - I've got a couple '8251 cores already that I am beginning to clean, rebuild, restore. One has a 3207 date code, pretty close to what I need, and the other has 3457 (Dec 11), even closer. The car was assembled in the 5th week of December, 1967 (12E). However, December of '67 actually spanned 6 weeks, the 1st being on a Friday, and the 31st being on a Sunday. The OEM (I believe) distributor is dated 7K31.
There is likely discussion to be had whether the car was built Christmas week or the following New Year's week.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Last edited by BackInTheGame; October 1st, 2021 at 04:54 AM.
#16
Happy to help on the 02 system. I have dual sensors and it gives me a sense of confidence that I know I’ve got the carb about right in both banks and that they’re evenly burning the mixtures all through the various RPM and demand ranges. The trade off is a bit more wiring an additional bung and about $100 over the single sensor. Worth it to me, but not a huge deal. You’d get 90% of the benefit from a single sensor and simpler system too.
If my experience is any guide, don’t stress an inch or 2 on the sensor location. I think the manufacturers want it all installed perfectly so they can warranty performance, but in the field I’ve found it not that critical. Also be aware they recommend calibrating the sensor(s) once a year or so. It’s not hard, just a minor maintenance chore.
As you get into the carbs, get everything shiny clean. The tolerances and interferences of those springs, jets and rods are so tight that for proper operation cleanliness really is the trick. I use #0000 steel wool and compressed air to get everything smooth and clean. Also, consider an O ring on used mixture needles, they can clean up your idle if there is a minor vacuum leak there.
Cheers
cf
If my experience is any guide, don’t stress an inch or 2 on the sensor location. I think the manufacturers want it all installed perfectly so they can warranty performance, but in the field I’ve found it not that critical. Also be aware they recommend calibrating the sensor(s) once a year or so. It’s not hard, just a minor maintenance chore.
As you get into the carbs, get everything shiny clean. The tolerances and interferences of those springs, jets and rods are so tight that for proper operation cleanliness really is the trick. I use #0000 steel wool and compressed air to get everything smooth and clean. Also, consider an O ring on used mixture needles, they can clean up your idle if there is a minor vacuum leak there.
Cheers
cf
#17
Happy to help on the 02 system. I have dual sensors and it gives me a sense of confidence that I know I’ve got the carb about right in both banks and that they’re evenly burning the mixtures all through the various RPM and demand ranges. The trade off is a bit more wiring an additional bung and about $100 over the single sensor. Worth it to me, but not a huge deal. You’d get 90% of the benefit from a single sensor and simpler system too.
If my experience is any guide, don’t stress an inch or 2 on the sensor location. I think the manufacturers want it all installed perfectly so they can warranty performance, but in the field I’ve found it not that critical. Also be aware they recommend calibrating the sensor(s) once a year or so. It’s not hard, just a minor maintenance chore.
As you get into the carbs, get everything shiny clean. The tolerances and interferences of those springs, jets and rods are so tight that for proper operation cleanliness really is the trick. I use #0000 steel wool and compressed air to get everything smooth and clean. Also, consider an O ring on used mixture needles, they can clean up your idle if there is a minor vacuum leak there.
Cheers
cf
If my experience is any guide, don’t stress an inch or 2 on the sensor location. I think the manufacturers want it all installed perfectly so they can warranty performance, but in the field I’ve found it not that critical. Also be aware they recommend calibrating the sensor(s) once a year or so. It’s not hard, just a minor maintenance chore.
As you get into the carbs, get everything shiny clean. The tolerances and interferences of those springs, jets and rods are so tight that for proper operation cleanliness really is the trick. I use #0000 steel wool and compressed air to get everything smooth and clean. Also, consider an O ring on used mixture needles, they can clean up your idle if there is a minor vacuum leak there.
Cheers
cf
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
charlie_hustle
Racing and High Performance
18
December 21st, 2013 06:26 PM