72cuttys

I saw my grandfather this weekend, and he handed me this set of keys saying he found them in a old dresser and was pretty sure they belonged to the Cutlass.(hes had multiple oldsmobiles) I tried the one key and sure enough it works the ignition.

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rcorrigan5

They are both ignition keys for 1969 and newer GM cars.

Randy C.

72cuttys

Im not talking about the key itself, its the oldsmobile tags with the lettering on the backs im more interested in.

MDchanic

If you're not asking about the purpose of the keys, then why did you ask about the purpose of the keys?
Some might find that confusing.

The key fobs are exactly what the lettering on them says that they are - ways of reuniting you with your keys should they get lost.
As it says right on them, "Drop in Mailbox." If someone found your keys and dropped them in a mailbox, Oldsmobile would pay the postage to their lost and found center, look up the number on the fob, and then mail them to you.

- Eric

Professur

http://www.waramps.ca/keytags.html

War Amps has been providing this service for as long as I can remember.

Allan R

Only thing I see that's really interesting is these keys have the GM branding and the dealers name on them. That's if the dealer was 'Curtis'. On the other hand it could just be the key manufacturer.

mrolds69

Curtis is definitely the key manufacturer.

MDchanic

Curtis is the manufacturer of the key blank - notice it says "For GM Cars" on it. It's not an original GM key.

The two fobs are addressed to different places, one to "Oldsmobile" in Milwaukee, the other to GMAC in Southfield, Mich. (presumably it was an "extra" that came with an auto loan).

- Eric

joe_padavano

Original GM keys either say "Briggs and Stratton" or "GM". The aftermarket blanks say "For GM cars". In addition, the "B-48" on the key is an aftermarket reference code for the "A" blank. GM never used that designation.

These are original GM key blanks:

Allan R

I remember those key blanks. Didn't the punch out sections have the key code on them too? (Factory originals delivered to dealer)

MDchanic

Yup.



- Eric

joe_padavano

That "very small charge" used to be $1.00. I bought my first 442 (a 1968) from a wrecking yard in 1974. It did not have keys. I pulled the door lock to get the code and the local Olds dealership (Gallo Olds in Worcester, MA) punched me a new key for $1.00.

Allan R

Good luck finding that service for $1.00 now, especially with VATS and other electronic keys.

BTW, what do you call those new style keys that are used with the Start/Stop buttons on new cars?

joe_padavano

Yet another good reason to own older cars. Actually, what most people don't realize (including some key companies) is that VATS keys are no different than pre-VATS keys. There are 15 different blanks, each with a different resistance in the "pill", but the key gets cut just like any other older metal key. There is no programming required - it's just a fixed resistance in that "pill". You just need to start with the correct resistance key blank.

By the way, good luck finding anything for a buck today that was that price in 1974... My inflation calculator says that $1.00 then is just under $5.00 now.

66400

Last pair (ignition and trunk) of 66 keys I had cut by a local locksmith using the lock code cost 52.00.

Henry

joe_padavano

Next time, talk to me first. I've got a Curtis Clipper machine and a code book. First key for each code is $10, subsequent duplicates are $2 each.

1969w3155

I had the "key knockouts" for my '69 when I bought it,I was carrying the paperwork in the envelope from the original owner, that owner number two gave me...except I was carrying it upside down, and the punches fell out...lost forever, an idiot moment.

Octania

This is where we learn to appreciate a clear, succinct subject line.

I might have worded it "What are these keychain fobs for?"

Pretty sure we all know what the KEYS are for...

Koda

I may look you up, Joe, on that. I've got a few ign cyl / door cyl sets to choose the best set from to sit in my 67; will need some spare keys eventually.

Allan R

I know what VATS is and how it works. I was wondering more about 'these things'

joe_padavano

Complexity for the sake of being complex. I'm waiting for hackers to start on these.

Leadfoot

I'd love to take you up on that, Joe.

I have my original '69 keys, plus some older copies. Problem is, all of them are very well-worn.
I picked up 2 sets of correct new 'E' & 'H' key blanks from eBay, took them with my all my old keys to a trusted local lock shop, and asked if they could make me new keys. I told the kid at the counter I was hoping they could cut the new keys to the original spec, not just make me new (worn) copies. He said he didn't know how to do that, so he cut copies. The trunk/glove box keys work, but the ignition/door keys will not operate the door locks (they will turn the ignition). The copied keys have very little detail (just like the original worn keys -- no surprise there). The shop didn't charge me anything, but also couldn't guarantee anything (so I got my money's worth, although I would gladly have paid for real reproduction keys).

So my question is: Is there a way to reproduce (not copy) the keys to the original cut, working from the existing keys, but without the cylinder key codes? It seems that I saw a description somewhere of how to determine what the cuts should be just from the original keys, but now I can't find that again.

If I really had to, I would disassemble a door to get the cylinder code, but I'd prefer not to if there is some other way.

joe_padavano

Yes, it is possible to "read" the worn key and cut a new one. This assumes that the worn key isn't completely smooth and will still operate the lock. What I usually do is cut a test key on a cheap Chinesium blank first to ensure that I have read the code correctly before chewing up an expensive GM blank. Of course, using the code on the lock cylinder is idiot-proof, but the other way works. PM me for more info.

rustyroger

You're behind the times Joe.
There is a documented case of someone armed only with a laptop not only gaining access to a new BMW with a state of the art security system, but in an hour or so starting the engine and was able to drive it.


Remember when steering locks were going to end car theft forever?.


Roger.

Allan R

Gee, I must be old. I remember when you didn't need a key to start the car. Then they came up with the 'key' - you know, a security device that would secure your cars contents and prevent it from being stolen???

Only thing that will stop car thieves is an exploding car...1 down, thousands waiting in line... How much fun can a guy with explosives have?

rustyroger

Blowing your car up every time you park it will get expensive real quick, you might find you don't get invited back to car shows very often.........


Roger.

joe_padavano

I actually prefer wiring the ignition coil to the door handle as an anti-theft device.

ignachuck

When I ripped out the seats and carpet of my 56, I found this under the seat. Almost sucked into the shop vac with the hair pins.... Original keys with the knock outs and codes. Before this find, I had only one key that had been goofed with so it would start the car and open the trunk but not the doors. Now I have the right keys for the right locks. The key holder says Amarillo Insurance Agency- that's where the car was first sold- Garner-Randall Olds.