JBrooks

The driver's side valve cover gasket is leaking on my '68 442 (400 cubic inch motor). It drips onto the exhaust manifold and causes a fairly strong odor.

NAPA auto lists a series of valve cover gasket materials at various price points.

My questions:
1) I would appreciate advice on which gasket material to purchase?

2) Also, should I use the "blue" gasket sealing material on the gasket?

3) Does anyone have the torque specifications for the valve cover bolts?

4) Finally, any advice on moving the air conditioner compressor enough to get at all the valve cover bolts and remove? I do not want to loose the A/C coolant fluid.

Thanks for any advice on doing this correctly.

Jim

joe_padavano

I like neoprene gaskets. The A/C compressor can be completely unbolted so long as you don't disconnect the hoses. Leave them attached and move the compressor to the side.

My442

The absolute best V/C gaskets are FelPro PermaDry.

They have a plastic frame with an embedded O-ring seal.

Expensive, but last forever and don't leak.

And, they require no sealer.

don71

I agree and they are totally reusable....over and over again.

old442

I got neoprene gaskets for a diesel application , a lot thicker and never had a leak since I installed them 4yrs. ago . They to can be reused also.

JBrooks

Thank you for all of your advice on the gaskets and moving the A/C compressor..

It is very much appreciated.

A final question regarding torque specifications?

Thanks again.

Jim

MDchanic

The only thing I can say is to give a general warning that applies to all stamped steel covers (valve cover, engine oil pan, trans. oil pan, etc.), and also to soft flanges, like aluminum carbs:

Tighten the bolts less than you think you should.

The typical kid-at-the-gas-station / weekend mechanic tightens them to much, deforming the lip of the cover near the bolt holes, and leaving the areas between them to loose, thus guaranteeing future leaks.

- Eric

rcorrigan5

The Chassis Service Manual says 7 ft lbs for valve cover bolts.

Randy C.

MDchanic

... and that's about as much as tightening a screw with a screwdriver.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

And if you do not have a torque wrench, just tighten them with a nutdriver, alternating amongst the bolts as you tighten them.

There is also the Permadry-plus gaskets that are all blue silicone or something. I used one on my Ford and never had a weep! My torque wrench would not go down that low so I used a nutdriver.

Just be sure to hammer the valve cover sealing surface flat first, as often the areas around the holes are warped from over torquing over the years to try to stop leaks.

jag1886

I always use cork gaskets and silicone them to the valve cover and install them dry on the head side, been doing it that way for 30 years works every time. You can also remove the valve cover several times without hurting the gasket.

Run to Rund

I've been able to reuse Mr. Gasket 5875 coated cork if I use oil or grease on both sides, hammer flat the bolt areas of the valve covers, and don't overtighten them. I make sure they go on the same head and valve cover each time, and wiggle the cover to be sure the gaskets are "seated." I have also used the rubber gaskets over. Might try those Fel Pros some day.

Rickman48

X2 on the cork - I use Weatherstrip adhesive on the V/C side, and wheel bearing grease on the head side - works for me!!

Chesrown 67 OAI

Where can I buy these? Is this an obsolete number? Cant find this number listed at any parts store via Google?

don71

It looks like these are no longer available. I checked Summit,Rock Auto and Oriellys..... Nothing.

Lady72nRob71

I noticed they were discon'ed also.
The regular rubber Felpro VC gaskets are still available at many places and I would recommend those over the cork ones. The rubber ones do not require sealer and are reusable.

Oldzskool

got a part number?

joe_padavano

This thread is over a decade old...
And if you read through the posts, you'll see that they were discontinued even then.

Oldzskool

I only graduated high school but yeah I can read dates. Why would I read through a decade old thread?

joe_padavano

Why would you respond to one? And in any case, since you started reading it, you would have found the answer to your question.

Oldzskool

I responded to it because I wanted a part number that I could enter on eBay or this forum.

bccan

FelPro PermaDry Plus VS13403T. The “T” is the key, do not confuse with”C” or other suffixes. They’re long since discontinued but do occasionally pop on eBay. Best VCGs made for Olds but now extinct.

On this sight, search “Perma dry” where you will find some good discussion on other choices that are commonly available and people’s opinions of them

​​​​​….

Oldzskool

hey man really appreciate the information.

Oldzskool

VS13403T I guess I’m not the only to RESPOND to decade old threads.

bccan

Just trying to help you out. Subject is relevant even if it’s an old thread, VCGs are an ever changing dynamic for our old cars. One would think that with all those bolts the gasket would be inconsequential but that just isn’t the case.

​​​​​​….

s i 442

I use cork, and lightly silicone it to the head.
I tried the rubber ones once and it was like wadding up plastic baggies and using them as a gasket.

Fun71

Wow, way different experience than I had. I used the thicker (11/64") Fel Pro rubber gaskets VS50259R. They worked exceptionally well.

omy442

I use cork, but after 30+ yrs, I still remind myself to gently snug the bolts. Too much and overtighten, gasket collapses, and leaks are guaranteed.
I battled for years with moroso tall valve covers leaking and tried every type of gasket. When I took off 2x4 intake and went back to stock under the hood, I went with cork and stock valve covers.

I'm sure others will chime in about absorption characteristics and heat and cooling cycling of cork vs other types of gasket material.

Mader

oldolds88

make sure your drain holes are clear, or it will be ongoing problem

Ozzie

Sometime spreaders can help.