I want to put on new valve cover gaskets.

330 cu. in. small block motor.

I can buy rubber or cork from 5/32" ($10.99) to 1/4" ($39.49)

Which are best"?

--Don

 

I have reused the rubber ones many times. . .but. . .use rtv or weatherstrip adhesive or sometihing if you want them to stick to the valve cover, and good chassis grease on the head side so you can remove them. First flatten the gasket surface of the cover. Usually some gorilla has overtightened the bolts and dimpled the cover, so use a hammer to flatten it out again. Tighten the bolts in the same order as the head bolts, just a bit past snug, and go over them after a couple heat cycles, etc. That is the secret, not raunching on them the first time and distorting the cover. Cork is fine too, but may tear on removal, again use sealer on the cover side and grease on the head side or grease on both sides, and try to get them exactly as they were positioned before if you are re-using them.

 

FEL-PRO Part # VS13403T PermaDryPlus from Rockauto - 23.79 + shipping.
Your local parts stores should be able to get them also.

I used one of these kind on my Ford; no sealers, no fuss, no mess, perfect seal.
Worth the extra $$.

 

The Fel Pro Perma Dry Plus are the best gasket I've seen for Olds - IMO.

Follow instructions to make sure dimples are not present @ bolt holes on covers prior to installation & you are not likely to ever have a leak, or need to buy new gaskets regardless of how many times they might get removed & reinstalled.

 

do not over torque the fasteners. over tightening will split the gaskets and deform the cover

for repeated removal of the covers a rubber gasket would probably be the choice but otherwise the cork/rubber will do the job. I've always used Permatex High Tack to fix the gasket to the cover with the head surface being dry. stay away from using RTV as an adhesive, with will cause more problems than it cures, especially with rubber gaskets.

 

If you have chrome covers with dimples punched between the bolt holes the perma-dry may not work. The dimples interfere with the sealing beads on the gasket, otherwise it's a great gasket. I ended up using rubber, it leaked. Over a two week period I tightened the bolts a quarter to a half turn at a time, leaks almost gone but I didn't tighten further. After a few more weeks the leaks have stopped without further tightening. I suspect the rubber may have swelled a bit from exposure to oil. I also used spreaders beneath the bolts.

 

Thanks Run to Rund and Rob......

I was thinking of a rubber gasket. Rob, is the one you recommend rubber?

Thanks, again.....

--Don

 

Thanks!

I have the original steel Gold, covers.

I'll make sure that they are flat when I change the gaskets.

--Don

 

Yep - rubber it is. It will look similar to this Permadry Plus gasket I used on my Ford's cover...


Of course the set I mentioned way above would would be for your Jetstar 330...

Here is how I installed mine (it is sealing well!):
"Time for the valve cover to go back on! I ordered the Felpro “Permadry plus” silicon rubber gasket this time which ~should~ help seal it better. No sealant is needed – just install with care. It is twice the price of cork, but should be much more durable, longer lasting, and more leak-proof – well worth it if those claims are true!
I tightened bolts slightly and in cross sequence, a little more each go-around. I used a big nut driver so I would not overtighten. Do not use a ratchet! However, there are brass spacers in the gasket to prevent over-tightening and damaging the gasket or warping the cover."

 

That's the gasket I was thinking about getting. But, if it does start to leak, you can't tighten it anymore, unless the bolts back off!

Gasket is only leaking on the driver's side.

Thanks, EVERYONE, for all your help!

Lets close this thread down now.....

--Don

 

If the VC's are not warped and both surfaces are nice and clean (after old gasket crap scraped off), and you tighten bolts in sequence, it will not leak.

Let us know how it goes!