My alternator belt and power steer belts both show cracking. It is time to replace them but I have never changed out belts on my 68 Cutlass Surpreme before. Still learning so I am trying to find a tutorial or some kind of visual on what exactly I need to do in order to switch it out? How about tensioning properly? I saw some tensioner tools but I am trying to avoid buying anything unnecessary.

I replaced the fan clutch a couple months go and in the process of loosen that, I noticed the belt loosened as well. Not sure if thats the right direction. The car has A/C but it is not working or hooked up. Here is a picture of my setup.

544809167_photobucket_13895_.jpg

 

Both the power steering pump and the alternator have an adjusting slot in the bracket and a pivot. The alternator uses a bolt, the power steering generally has a pair of bolts or studs/nuts. First loosen and rotate the PS, remove the belt. Then loosen and remove the alt belt. Install the alt belt and pull the alt tight. There is usually a hole in a bracket so you can lever a big screwdriver against the alternator and PS housings, but don't dent the "ham can" that holds the PS fluid. After tightening the alternator bolts and nuts, do the same on the ps pump.

I would not do it this way, but amusing to watch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA

 

I need to get a scan of the proper way to tension the P/S pump. There is a tab on the inside of the pump behind the pulley that you use to tension the belt. You are NOT supposed to pry or pull on the reservoir so you don't damage it.
It also looks like you are missing the lower block bolt for the P/S as it looks crooked.

 

Not having PS, I defer to your information on where to pry on it to tension the belt. As I posted, it sure isn't the ham can which is easily distorted, breaking the big o-ring seal to the cast iron pump housing. None of my Oldsmobiles have power steering, power brakes, radios, heaters, any of that extraneous stuff

 

Ah, here it is, page 9-10 of the 1970 factory chassis service manual. Use a big screwdriver with the tip on the tab sticking out from the big mounting bracket, and the bar of it against the cast iron hub behind the pulley. 1971, p. 9-19; 1972, p. 9-45. If you don't have the factory manuals for your year, either get them on ebay or download them from the Olds Perf. Club website after joining:
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...=9990286472090

 

Those two cable ties in the picture...are those holding a patch on your upper rad hose?

 

I wondered that too. I hope it is actually an extra layer of hose to protect against rubbing on the rad top plate or fan shroud, I hope.

Adam

 

Be aware that there are actually three fasteners that need to be loosened on the PS pump. There are two bolts behind the pulley and a nut on the stud at the bottom rear of the pump. Only the top bolt rides in a slot (the other two fasteners are the pivot axis) but all three need to be loose for the pump to move.

 

That piece and zip-ties are there to hold the upper rad house in place. It is not a patch.