Thanks for taking time to read this. I'm going through a 1973 455cid before placing it in my 1969 Cutlass. What tools will I need to remove pulley, balancer, and get at the timing chain, and to replace the oil seal, and replace those parts?

thank you!

 

A steering wheel puller works as a harmonic balancer puller. You'll also want a balancer installer so you don't have to beat it back on with a hammer. If the engine is out of the car, you can hold the flexplate while loosening and tightening the balancer bolt. A large socket or piece of pipe is all you need to get the seal in and out.

 

The balancer bolt has a 1 1/8" head on it.

 

just rent the proper puller and installer - proper tools make all the differnence

 

Don't forget to look at the dampner where the seal rides and sleeve it if worn.

 

Thanks Guys, I have a 1969 shop manual, but where would I source the correct tooling, is it generic enough to be usable from any source?

 

Yes, any harmonic balancer puller should be fine - as Joe said, you can get away with a steering wheel puller, or you can "free rent" a puller from your local chain auto parts store.

With the engine out, it's actually an easy job - the hard part is in cleaning up and repainting all of the parts before you put it back together.

Be sure to use a good quality replacement timing set (no $19.95 Chinese crap), and, if at all possible, to degree the cam before you put it back together.
Also, take a picture of it before you reassemble, for when you wake up in the middle of the night thinking, "Did I line up the dots right?!?").

- Eric

 

"Also, take a picture of it before you reassemble, for when you wake up in the middle of the night thinking, "Did I line up the dots right?!?")."


AGREED.
Digital photos are almost free.
Take a few, from different angles.

 

Be sure the timing marks on the timing chain gears are aligned as shown in the CSM.

Fuel pump has to come out - don't forget the fuel pump eccentric on the cam gear and the oil slinger on the crank.

The other issue is when you remove/replace the timing cover. You have to drop the oil pan about 1/2 inch to get it out and in.

My suggestion would be to replace the oil pump, pick up, and oil pan gasket as well. It is a lot easier when the engine is out of the car.

 

In the aerospace biz, we call these "close out photos". As we close out an assembly or the whole spacecraft, we always take a boatload of photos, for exactly this reason. They come in very handy if there's ever an accident investigation.

Just so long as you are careful not to MIGHTASWELL yourself into a complete engine rebuild...

(Not that I'D ever do that...)

As an example of how I may or may not have succumbed to the MAWs, on a running 350 that I recently had out of a car, I not only did everything noted above, but also replaced the rear main seal with a neoprene one, checked all bearing clearances with plastigauge (while showing uncharacteristic restraint by NOT replacing them), and replaced the valve seals by using an air fitting in the spark plug holes. I'll suggest that if the freeze plugs look at all questionable, there will never be a better time to replace them than now.

 

Joe is right.

A lot of parts that are easy to do on an engine stand are really difficult or impossible to do in the car.

And, an engine R&R is a ton of work.

I always err on the side of "What If" it goes bad?

 

Freeze plugs, even if they do not look bad.

 

Thanks guys, I do have a new oil pump for it, and oil pan gasket, had planned on replacing those as well, I had not thought about freeze plugs...

 

Get the brass type. They will out last you. They do sell the whole kit for your engine.