I'm working away through post restoration bugs on my 71 442 and the latest issue I noticed is a fuel leak from the return fuel pipe about a foot back from where the metal pipe ends near the tank. What I have determined is that fuel is seeping from the seam of the pipe only when the revs are up, ie., driving it or under fast idle when cold. I watched at idle and it doesn't leak. I put "Seal All" on it for now to see if it will stop the seepage. Is it an acceptable repair to cut the pipe and use an additional foot of hose in place of the pipe? My concern is without any flare on the pipe will a rubber hose seal effectively? There can't be much pressure on this line so I'm hoping it will suffice. The rest of the lines are like new and to change these lines now is almost impossible with the body on. Until studying these pipes I was unaware they were seamed. Opinions?

 

A length of quality fuel line and some worm clamps will work fine.

 

Brian,

It is not difficult to use an inexpensive flaring tool to create a new single flare on that old pipe, but access to do so while it is installed on the car could of course be a problem. If so, just put a new hose on the cut-off old pipe since it is a return line. BUT . . .

Be sure to replace all old hoses (no matter how good they look) with Gates Barricade hose. I use it on return lines (such as in your situation) and especially on pressure and suction lines; the old-fashioned hose just won't cut it with today's gasoline, and you could end up broken down on the side of the road or (much worse) on fire.

Ask for Gates Barricade for carbureted vehicles at your local NAPA store or order online.
http://www.gates.com/products/automo...fuel-line-hose

Jeff

 

Thanks for the information on the barricade hose, I had never heard of that product .
I was thinking about a regular flare, but as you stated I don't think there is enough room to actually put the flare on. I will try a hose with good quality clamps. I appreciate your information and advice. Cheers, Brian.

 

You are welcome, Brian.

I (now) notice that you live in Canada; if you don't have gasoline blended with any of the chemicals "down here" (such as ethanol, benzene, etc.) the fuel hose warning may not apply . . . but if Barricade is available, I'd still use it anyway "just in case".

Jeff

 

x1000

 

compression sleeves


I have been able to place a bulge on lines by means of using a compression fitting sleeve. Either tighten a compression fitting on there to seat the sleeve, then remove as much of the rest of the compression fitting as you can, or slide the sleeve on the tube and epoxy it in place. This is not a pressurized line, so it needs minimal retention.

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If your tube has a SEAM leak I would be worried about longevity of all of it...

 

There is no need to cut off the bad tubing if you can oil or grease it and slide the hose over the entire length to the good part.
That way there is no concern about re-flaring.

- Eric

 

I like the idea of your method, I will try that first. If I'm not successful getting the hose over the existing pipe with the flare at the start, what is the best method to cut the pipe? Will a plumber's pipe cutter intended for copper pipe work or is the pipe too hard? There isn't much room to spin the tool all the way around, or am I stuck using a hack saw? With no flare would sealer and double clamps be sufficient? Thanks for the help.

 

This is what I did with a perforated line on my car and it has been fine for nearly 20 years now.

 

Yes, a regular tubing cutter will work fine - get one of the tiny ones, which require less clearance.

I wouldn't waste my time with sealer. Double clamps should be just fine.
This is not a high pressure application.

- Eric

 

Well I tried your suggestion and I am happy to report sliding the hose over the existing line worked. No more seepage. I would have never thought of that method, and it saved cutting the original steel line. Many thanks Eric.

 

You're welcome. Glad to help out.

- Eric