I have no idea how to change the points and condenser on my 72' cutlass. It has the 5.7 350 rocket.
Can't anyone walk me through it or explain it with pictures maybe?

Thank you very much.

 

Welcome Manny. It can be as easy as a couple of screws and a couple of wires. If you wanted to go with an electronic conversion, its basically the same amount of work. Thought I'd throw that out there even though you didn't ask .

Most important, you will need a dwell meter. This is for adjusting the dwell angle to 30 degrees using an allen wrench.

While you are there, make sure the weights and springs are free to move and not rusted stuck.

The new points could be one piece with condenser or two separate pieces. They can purchased both ways, so don't let that throw you. They may come pretty close out of the box and have near correct dwell, but it has to be checked/adjusted.

I don't have pictures to show you. I searched for some that would be oldsmobile related as to not show confusion with no luck. Don't forget Youtube has many videos that come close to showing you what to do. It just won't be Olds specific. At least I didn't find one. I'll post one for a British four banger below just to give you an idea.

Hope you enjoy your new Olds. If you are going to enjoy it for along time, I suggest you get a Factory Service Manual. There is one on ebay now for 30 bucks. The price goes up from there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Oldsmob...597123&vxp=mtr

 

- Eric

 

If you don't have a dwell meter you can set them to 16 thousandths with a feeler gauge and it will be pretty close.

 

I would upgrade to a pertronix setup. You can get it for under 100 bucks. I have had mine in both my cars for years. Faster starts better idle. Easy to install. And nobody will ever know.

 

A suggestion, as you probably do not have a dwell meter.....(AND probably cannot find one anymore!).

Install the points, setting by eye to 16 thousandths (matchbook cover gap), start the engine, and let it warm up at idle. At curb idle, use your Allen wrench in the window of the distributor cap, and turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise), until the engine starts to missfire badly, THEN reverse direction (counterclockwise) for exactly one half turn out, and you should be pretty close, also!

Sorry, oldschool method, but it works when you don't have the tools!

I was a Mopar tech back in the day, and replaced more sets of points that I care to remember, but we always removed the distributor, and set it on a Sun distributor machine to check dwell and mechanical/vacuum advance mechanisms, as well as distributor BUSHINGS, which had a tendency to wear out rapidly. The Delco distributors had the luxury of the window in the cap to adjust points, so it simplified the process in the car!

Don't forget to clean and lube the cam with the PROPER grease! And find a good set of points.....not some Chinese crap! I always preferred the Mallory 102X points/401 condenser.....but I'm not sure if they are still available??

 

Or, you could just set the point gap with a feeler gauge as directed in the CSM and not guess.

FYI, dwell meters are all over ebay for small dollars.

 

What's a Sun machine?!








HA-HA-HA-HA-HA!

I tried my best to talk the local community college out of theirs but the state would not salvage it.

 

Thank you very much I will definitely consider the electric conversion. Do you recommend any brands or such?

 

I have used Pertronix electronic ignition and have been very pleased. This subject will probably elicite several posts since points vs electronic ignition seems to be a controversial subject. They both work fine but in your case I would recommend the Pertronix since you do it once and you are done with it. I would just get their base system (they have about 3 different ones) but I would recommend getting their coil to.

 

Thanks, Joe, for the advice on the dwell meter, but I don't need one anymore; the OP stated that he had NO IDEA how to replace points, so I thought I would add a helpful tip on how to simply adjust, to at least get the car running well again. I figured if he couldn't replace points, he didn't have a FACTORY service manual, either....lol!

And rocketraider.....I wish I still had the Sun machine we used back then; could be used to check lots of stuff on the old cars!

 

"Install the points, setting by eye to 16 thousandths (matchbook cover gap), start the engine, and let it warm up at idle. At curb idle, use your Allen wrench in the window of the distributor cap, and turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise), until the engine starts to missfire badly, THEN reverse direction (counterclockwise) for exactly one half turn out, and you should be pretty close, also! "

This method works very well for the Olds V8.
A meter is good, to verify, but every time I have done this, and checked, it was spot-on in the 29-31 degree range.

NOTE to the OP
Make sure your screwdriver tip FITS the screws- grind to suit or get the proper one by purchasing.

You need not remove the two points screws entirely- they tend to drop into the distributor and disappear- just loosen enough to remove the points. The condenser [capacitor] screw does have to come out if it has a 3rd screw and is not part of the points assembly. track it carefully. maybe babysit it with a magnet while you remove it. Or, lift the capacitor so the screw remains in the tiny bracket as you extract. You can lightly magnetize a screwdriver by rubbing a magnet on it a few times.

move the distributor shaft side to side and see how much play there is in it. More than enough to see is a problem. If the shaft moves, the points gap changes, which changes the spark timing. Rebuild is pretty easy if you have any shop experience and the proper bushings and maybe a reamer. I have all that stuff and rebushed a couple of distributors a while back... Improvised guide tools, etc.

 

Unfortunately, the method you suggested will change the initial timing as you change the dwell. You can end up chasing your tail. That's why it's not a recommended way to do it. Using a feeler gauge to set the point gap is the correct way to do it, without a dwell meter. Why teach a newbie the wrong way? As with anything, you need the right tools and techniques to do the job correctly.

 

When ever you change the points, it's always a good idea to follow with a quick check and adjust the timing.

 

It's not just a good idea, it's mandatory. Every time you change the dwell, you will change the initial timing.

To recap, the minimum tools required to change the points are:

Feeler gauges
Timing light
Flat blade screwdriver
Allen wrench (to adjust points)
1/2" wrench (for distributor holddown)

A dwellmeter makes this much easier and more accurate, but is not mandatory.

 

If I set the gap with a feeler gauge, does it mess with timing?

 

From above:

So, if the dwell and timing were correct before, they will be correct after, but you wouldn't be changing the points unless they needed it. The spark is triggered when the points open. Changing the dwell changes the angle of the distributor when the points open, so it also changes the initial timing. The correct way to change points is to set the dwell, (either with a feeler gauge or a dwell meter) and THEN check (and if necessary, reset) the initial timing. This is unfortunately the nature of the beast, there's no way around it.

 

I might add, even if you went to an electronic ignition, you need to check and adjust timing. It's very easy but you need a timing light.

 

9/16"
the distributor hold down tool size.

I like a universal socket on a 12" extension. Leave it medium snug at first, so that the distributor can just be turned by hand, adjust timing, then secure it well.

Points gap must be measured when the points are at max opening, with rubbing block on the highest part of the cam lobe.

 

My car has hard starts and when you take off from a red light then push the gas, it studders then moves. If I push a lot of gas it will die out. If I floor it after passing 55-60 it sorta dies out and comes back. The ride I just came back from it died out 4 times. I'm sick of it. I'm worried about changing my points. I know it isn't a hard job but it's a sensitive job if you know what I mean. I have new rotor and new distrib cap and plugs. Still needs wires and points+condenser.
Any other problems maybe with my car? Thanks

 

Understood. Honestly I think my timing is way off. My engine has been rebuilt 10 years ago. I think it needs a value job.

 

You certainly can have multiple problems. If what you have done has made no difference then do complete your tune-up. Get a dwell meter and timing light and learn how to use them, or read how to eliminate points then set timing. A compression or leak down test should be done. Do not assume valves are bad.
Was any carburetor work done? You could also have carb trouble if accelerator pump has not been replaced with one that is compatible with ethanol gasoline.
Engine rebuild ten years ago, but how much mileage?
Test drive your car after every change. If you make a mistake you will catch it and not create more problems.
Read the chassis service manual, ask questions here or find someone that knows these cars to help you.

 

Jeezus, you've owned the car for ten years and never tuned it up?

No wonder it runs like crap.

Go down to the local flea market and pick up a dwell / tach for $3 and a timing light for $10 and tune your car up before you mess with anything else, for the love of Pete.

- Eric

 

Honestly got my car not long ago. So I'm still checking things out. It's just so frustrating

 

No I obtained it from a 90 year old man 3 months ago. Engine was rebuilt 10 years ago

 

Okay. That's a useful piece of information that you might have considered sharing with us earlier.

So what else do we need to slowly pry out of you?
He was 90.
He had it rebuilt ten years ago, when he was eighty.
Did he ever drive it over those ten years?
How many miles did he put on it?
How was it stored?
How was it treated, and who owned it, before the rebuild?
What did the rebuild consist of?
Who rebuilt it?
What have you done with it since you got it?
Have you ever worked on cars before?
Do we even need to bother suggesting shortcuts and cheap tools, or are you rich, and just send your cars over to the mechanic?
What else have we missed?

- Eric

 

If you are getting too frustrated by what has been discussed I would recommend you consider finding a good mechanic that is familiar with older cars and having him analyze your engine and tune it up. It probably should have the compression checked and it is possible it may need a carb rebuilt. Then when you get it back you can enjoy your car. That is what it is all about, enjoying your car.

 

Okay. That's a useful piece of information that you might have considered sharing with us earlier.

So what else do we need to slowly pry out of you?
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:-)
LOL

yeah, what red said, too
at this point with your skills or lack thereof, just take the car to a competent person and have them give it a tune up and a good going over.

If you want, you CAN learn how to do these things, by for example reading the Chassis Service Manual, or at least a Chilton's, like everyone else did. It's not hard, or a secret, but guidance is needed... for anyone. Each job can pay for the tools required, in my experience.

 

You are 100 % correct.
People have also told me maybe problems with my accelerator pump? Because when I press the gas it hesitates then it picks up

 

I think all of this can be fixed with a little help. Take the suggestion of finding someone local that can do this work. It might take a few hundred bucks but it can be done.

I didn't see your location in your profile. If you don't mind, let us know where you are at. Maybe one of us is close to your area.

 

I'm in chicago, il

 

We actually have a few members in your area. Register on the map:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...obile-map.html

 

Give CopperCutlass a case of beer and some baling wire, and he'll have you running 9s by the end of the day.

- Eric