I recently started my 1972 Olds Cutlass 442 for the first time in two months. I heard what sounded like sand rattling around in the engine. I checked the oil (which I changed right before I put her away for the winter) and discovered small dark flecks in the oil. I plan to send the oil away for analysis but was wondering if anyone here has any thoughts? Could the “flecks” be rust or carbon? I had the engine rebuilt two years ago, so I’m not sold on the idea that it’s rust.

 

cut open the oil filter. If something is wearing or damaged, you will see the shrapnel in the filter pleats.

 

^x2^
And, for obvious reasons remove the drain plug and evaluate the drain plug magnet for attached metal debris; as well as any "other" particulates which may have settled into the drain plug area - check the plug and you can run your pinky finger around the bottom of the oil pan near the drain plug hole.

 

Thanks guys. I’ll do that in the morning. Is there any scenario where I am not looking at a large repair bill? The fact that I can clearly hear something like small particles rattling away in my engine is pretty much sending me into a deep, black depression…

 

From someone w/o years of experience diagnosing this exact issue I'd look first to see if you're burning oil. If so, I'd "guess" there may exist the chance a valve stem seal may have erupted/broke - entirely a guess; or, the chance a valve keeper or spring broke? Guessing here - but I'd evaluate if you're burning any oil?

 

Jeff are the flecks metal or possible paint flecks?

 

I'm suspecting if he can "hear" the noise, it's most likely not paint flecks.

 

No, i’m not burning oil (nor does the oil smell burnt.)

 

 

Sand rattling around in engine does not make noise, metal to metal makes noise. Give OP a chance before you jump to conclusions chief.

 

Black paint flecks don't make noise. Period.

 

Never said they did, will you let the OP answer questions?

 

He already answered my question - are you following along? He stated "...
And, "my" statement was to you and I stand by my statement...

 

C'mon!

Here's a lab that does oil analysis. They're pretty highly reviewed on the diesel forums I frequent.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

If you can hear something rattling around in your engine I'd check your oil filter as others mentioned. It would probably be a good idea to do a compression test too. Good luck, keep us posted.👍

 

I recommend using that lab's service. For years, I've sent a sample of oil to them at every oil change on each of my cars. They send a great evaluation each time, noting anything that looks out of place, be it wear metals or contamination. Their evaluation is conversational, no technical jargon. You don't need to be an expert to understand their information.

It has also saved me a lot of money on oil changes, as I ask them for oil life evaluation. For example, I found I could comfortably triple the oil change interval on my 2010 Challenger (using Red Line, each change I save is $120, even doing it myself).

 

Loose/worn timing chain bouncing off the cover walls? Collapsed hydraulic lifter can also cause valve train noise. Are the flecs in the oil magnetic?

 

My brother raised another possibility. He asked me if the noise abated after running it for a few minutes, I said yes. He said that, since the car wasn’t started for a couple of months, it’s possible the lifters weren't lubricated until the car regained oil pressure. They would have rattled until that happened. As for the flex’s in my oil, they felt like fine grit. He thinks condensation formed over the winter and caused some rust to form in the top of the engine. Like y’all, he said to cut the oil filter but that it should be o.k. Thanks to everyone here for their advice!

 

Thank you!

 

Very plausible - smart brother.

 

The lifters sound very possible. Is the person who built the engine near to you ? If so see if he will cut the filter open for you and give you his opinion. I probably do one or two every week.

The specs could very possibly be rust if the car is not driven much. Especially when its a new engine. You have to drive these things some

 

it kills me not to drive her more than I do but it’s just not good to do it on the south shore of Long Island in the winter. Too much salt in the air and on the roads. It’s best to put her up in November and kiss her goodbye until April! But, you’re right, I need to start her once a month at least. Keeps all the seals from drying out.

 

it IS a new engine. I had the original 350 Rocket rebuilt 2 years ago and have about 400 miles on it. She now sports 325 hp and pulls 400 lbs of torque. Not scary by today’s standards but enough to wear out some Dunlops. Thank for your help.

 

Most oil filters have a simple rolled-metal end which can be removed via tin-snips (1st video). Then, compress filter element to squish out the oil for inspection (2nd video).

 

Thanks Chief.

 

Unless you can drive the car long enough to get everything up to operating temp and stay at temp for awhile, it’s best to just let it sit. A few months of storage is no big deal.

Starting up, letting it idle for awhile, and then shutting it down will encourage the condensation you’re trying to avoid.

There are numerous threads on the best ways to store a car over the winter.

 

That's good advice, but not often seen and even less often followed.

Here's my experience.

I've used synthetic oil in every car I've owned. And I let my 1970 Corvette with 30,000 miles on the engine sit for 10 years in unheated storage in Minnesota. In this car, I used 10W-30 AMSOil from when it had 500 miles.

I drove it for a summer without seeing leaks or hearing strange noises, and then opened the engine (for reasons unrelated to any problem). I found the bearings, cylinder walls, and piston rings to be in perfect condition. There was no rust or wear to be seen. The cylinder walls still wore crosshatch.

The synthetic oil coats surfaces better than dino oil, so it prevents rust and eliminates startup wear after long shutdown.

 

I lost my torque converter a while back and it sounded like sand in a drum spinning around. Pulled the tranny with the converter. Drain the converter over a bucket and the fluid was full of metal shavings.