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Let me start by saying I know what looks good but still figuring out the difference between the closed and open end of a wrench. I need a new hobby; yes I realize that but these ole Oldsmobiles flip my switch. So honestly someone else will be conducting the diagnostics, fixes and install of electrical gauges. But I value the knowledge of knowing what is possibly up with my new car. So here goes:
1971 Cutlass Convertible. 350 4 barrel.
Loaded with options to the max including gauge package.
I have owned it a month. Everything pertinent to my question seemingly working..including gas/temp/oil. Oil pressure was about middle of the gauge while driving.
Not knowing when the oil was last changed, I bought Lucas 10-40 high Zinc and a wix oil filter. I also had the engine bay cleaned. They used a high pressure hose.
I took her out yesterday after taking a few photos and immediately saw the oil pressure was pegged out at high. I stopped, checked the oil ( on the mark) and drove a mile back home. The car was running, sounding perfectly.
i got to thinking that perhaps the engine bay detail knocked something ajar. I did my best but didn’t see anything out of whack; but again, I am THE most dangerous non mechanic on earth.
So, I assume I 1.run an oil pressure test..2.buy a new sending unit. 3. Install electrical gauges. I am obviously hoping it’s simply a wrong reading but I didn’t think it would peg high if a wire was loose or If the sending unit is bad.
What say the experts? The car is a 15 footer at best.
And, as always, thanks a million.
Facing the front of the car locate the oil fill tube then go to the bottom of that tube and 10" to the right to the oil pressure gauge sending unit. Re install or clean/tighten its one wire electrical connection that was messed up by the pressure washer.
Sugar Bear you were on the money..while I did not see anything loose, I insured all was snug..something must have been loose. She’s back where she should be.
electrical gauges will be ordered..
any recommendations?
thank you
No recommendations on the gauges, another forum member will know more. I will comment that quality instruments $$$ matter. Inaccurate data is worse than useless, instead of solving problems it creates confusion.
X2. Unless you move to nuclear powerplant accuracy standard electrical gauges, anything aftermarket you install is going to be close to what you already have.
You found the problem and corrected it. Enjoy the car.
Little aside here. All of our powerplant instrumentation was calibrated with an analog calibrator. A mechanical gage in other words!😉
You already HAVE an electrical gauge. It may display with a mechanical dial, but, if it takes a sending unit, converts it to electrical, and then turns a dial on a gauge, that's electrical.
A manual gauge is where there is a pressure diaphragm in the gauge where there is a tube carrying pressurized oil up to it. In my professional opinion, there is no need for a truly mechanical oil gauge in any application where electrical power to power an electric gauge is available, or for reasons of extreme backup. If that thing pops off under your dash, you can and will receive the entire oil pan on your floorboard in direct order.
You already HAVE an electrical gauge. It may display with a mechanical dial, but, if it takes a sending unit, converts it to electrical, and then turns a dial on a gauge, that's electrical.
. ....If that thing pops off under your dash, you can and will receive the entire oil pan on your floorboard in direct order.
I can speak from experience...it sucks when that happens. Put mechanical gauges in my '69 442 back in H.S...never again.
I agree 100%!!! The stupid plastic hose included with oil pressure gauges are absolutely junk. The copper line is only slightly better. If your serious about monitoring your engines vitals, do it right.
That braided stainless-covered line is nice but still has a flexible core.
I won't use plastic oil pressure gage tubing but metal tubing done right is pretty durable. Key is to put a vibration loop in the line on engine side of the firewall to "absorb" engine vibration and reduce stress on the metal line. A nice stout rubber grommet where it goes thru firewall helps too.
September 6th, 2021, 06:10 AM
