Hey all. I have a 1972 Cutlass 350 stock vert and I need to replace the motor mounts. Got the parts and ready to get it done this weekend but I'm wondering about the passenger side accessibility. I assume I'm going to need to remove the starter to get at the mount but I have AC as well. Does anyone know if having AC components will cause access issues?

 

I've never done this with AC...so are you just worried about rolling the engine over and hitting the AC housing?
Maybe lifting the engine straight up with both motor mount bolts will give you more clearance?

 

Kind of both - AC components blocking motor mounts on the passenger side and the AC component clearance when I work on the driver side. I'll take a look this weekend but maybe I go straight up to do this. Now I gotta worry about stretching the rad and trans cooler hoses!

 

I've always replaced engine mounts from the bottom laying under the car.

 

Yep - going to do that. I just have not been under it yet with this job in mind to see what I'm up against. Was hoping someone else had AC and could let me know there is no issue.

 

I have AC in my 69 and just put a jack under the motor and took the long bolt out as well as the 2 that got to the block. i had no issue with interference with the AC and since your not lifting it much trans lines weren't a problem. I had a piece of 2x4 on top of the jack so to not damage the oil pan. I don't recall if my starter was in or out when I did the DS because I was installing headers at the same time. I think you can leave it in. It would have been nice if it was possible to lift the motor a few inches but my valve cover hit the master cylinder after about 1". So take your time and be patient some bolts are hard to get to.

Steve

 

Haven taken another look yours may be easier than mine as I have a 455 w/AC, really tight in there.
Steve

 

Was just thinking that too when you said your valve cover was that close to your master cylinder and I saw you had a big block. Thanks for comments!

 

I don’t think the engine will get anywhere near the A/C components. However, be sure to check the fan to shroud clearance occasionally, it might not be a bad idea to unbolt the shroud.

I prefer to use a small bottle jack under the balancer. It sucks trying to work around a floor jack.

 

Hadn't thought of jacking up via the balancer. Any risk of busting it? Of course it may be a good reason to replace it as it's probably time anyways...

 

I don't like to jack the engine up by the balancer, I prefer a 2x6 under the pan.

 

I built a cradle out of 2X8's to place the load on the lip of the oil pan on each side of the bottom of the block. Worked like a champ. I had the fan off, and the radiator and shroud removed for other work. You will want to remove the shroud or the fan if you go this route.

 

I have raised engines with a block of wood on the balancer for years. If you damage the balancer raising the engine, the balancer was junk before you started.

I think it would far more likely to cave in the oil pan. Imagine trying to lift a 600 pound engine (probably closer to 800 with the transmission bolted to it) on the oil pan. That’s right in the center of gravity.

Imagine trying to lift a 800 pound barbell. Unless you had lots of Flintstone vitamins, chances are that ain’t happening. You might be able to lift just one end.

 

FYI there is a factory Kent-Moore tool from the 1970s specifically designed to lift the motor from the balancer.

 

how did it go? planning on raising and doing the mounts this weekend as it appears to have sagged and rubbing on an arm.

any struggles?

 

Didn't get to it yet. Changed the oil and off I went to look at Class C RVs. I'm going to get back to it after this weekend. I'll let you know how it went.

 

It’s not a bad job. As someone mentioned, depending on which way the engine mount goes they the mount may require starter removal. I wouldn’t think you would need to disconnect any wiring, just let the starter hang. I don’t think there will be clearance issues of any kind on the passenger side.

 

I just replaced the newer mounts in my 71 442 as I didn't like the ones that I had received and installed as part of my recent resto. I put the car up on my lift and went the wood cradle route as listed by BackInTheGame above. Although I too have lifted lots of engines with the balancer....I didn't want to risk anything happening.
I was able to then use an elevated screw jack-stand under that U-shaped 2x6 wood cradle (which equally supports the engine on both sides from the oil pan lip to the block sealing surface) and remove/replace one side at a time. Very stable. I didn't have to remove or loosen anything else up above or underneath to do it. I will admit though that I do not have A/C on my engine.

For alignment, I left the bolts on the block and the bolts on the frame portion loose when I inserted the long joining motor mount bolts. Once all bolts are in and the threads started, then lower the engine weight back down and do the final torque on all the bolts. I think it took me less than 30 mins to do both sides. I agree with Matt and didn't think it was bad at all. Good luck!

 

wanna come over and ill buy beer? haha probably take me 3 hours. But ill do like u guys say, make the wood U block and shouldn't be bad. THANK YOU!

 

Well it took me 2 years and a move to a new house but I finally got the motor mounts replaced. Bolts were fairly easy to crack and a 2 x 6 under the oil pan worked just fine for support and engine lifting. Had to drop the starter on the drivers side to get to the rear mount bolts. Passenger side mount was very spongy due to an oil leak and probably was the culprit behind my 37 mph motor shake (although I may replace the balancer for good measure).