Hi All,
I'm installing headers on my '68 442. When I removed the driver's side exhaust manifold, I found this:

Is this OK, or does it need to be replaced? The unit on the passenger side does not appear to be compromised like this.

 

You'll likely need to loosen or unbolt the mounts to get the headers in anyway, so you (all together now) MIGHTASWELL just put new ones in on both sides. Be sure to get 2261s for a 1968 442, contrary to what some catalogs might say.

 

Thanks for your quick reply, Joe.

I was thinking along those lines (MAW's) - especially since the cost is so low, and I've got it all exposed anyway....

BTW, I've been reading here and on 442.com for some time prepping for this install. I have not yet tried the passenger side (that is tonight), but was pleasantly surprised to find that my Hooker header slides into place with a minimum of fuss on the drivers' side. I understand that I will have to install the header AND the bell crank simultaneously, in "one smooth motion-" I did this about 30 years ago on my '69 442. Bell crank refresh is another MAW in progress. I remember laying on the apartment complex parking lot (no garage - any port in a storm!) with too short jackstands ...

Only thing still in my way is the dipstick tube, and I'll review removal and installation tips both here and at 442.com before I mangle the OEM unit.

Thanks again for your help.
Rich

 

Not sure what the difference between 68' & 72' V8 motor mounts are. I would say that mounts almost looks "melted". Was there a "heat shield" over the mount? My 72' had a shield protecting the drivers side mount from the exhaust manifold heat.

 

Also make sure your brake lines are clear.

 

The only way I've successfully removed the tube is to use a slide hammer. I made a small adapter by welding a bolt that fit the slide hammer to a bolt that just slipped in the end of the tube. Weld them head-to-head. Slip the bolt in the tube and clamp it with a vice grips. Use electrical tape to prevent damaging the outside of the tube.

 

I made a small adapter by welding a bolt that fit the slide hammer to a bolt that just slipped in the end of the tube. Weld them head-to-head. Slip the bolt in the tube and clamp it with a vice grips. Use electrical tape to prevent damaging the outside of the tube.
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Clever!
I made a slide hammer for that purpose also, back when you could get BB tubes in the boneyard.

I made the gripper a small version of a bicycle gooseneck lower end. Socket head cap screw tightens it. Outer sleeve prevents expanding the indicator guide tube. Has failed to extract only once, though many tubes just break off at the block anyhow.

For headers use, I highly recommend fitting your indicator guide tube with a compression fitting near the bottom, or loosening the tube's fit in the block by tapping the bulges ever so slightly smaller, sealing it with proper sealer, and securing it with a small set screw in the block situated between the bulges.

Because, the tube has to come out of the way every time the header or engine is removed.

 

Make sure the drivers mount is good or the engine is going to go thru the hood! I chained the drivers side of the engine to the A arm bolt!

 

Thank you to all who have contributed to expanding my knowledge in this exchange. I have a slide hammer that I have not yet had opportunity to use. This will make a great try-out.

When ready to install the motor mounts, I'll need to raise the engine a tad. Is the best way to do this with a board under the oil pan, then lift with my floor jack? Right now the car is about 20" off the floor on 3 Ton jack stands. The engine needs to lift, what, 1.5 inches, or so? If that much? Do I need to worry about loosening the trans mount?

 

That's fine. Just be sure the board is long enough so that the load is transferred into the sides of the oil pan, not just into the flexible bottom.

I've never had a problem with the trans mount. There's enough flex in the rubber for the drivetrain to tilt over.

 

I reluctantly installed a solid driver side only motor mount from Dick Miller. I found the result to not be as bad as I was afraid it'd be. In fact I would say vibration/sound transfer from engine is unnoticeable to me after 5 minutes of use, even though I'm pretty finicky and notice the small things. I tore several new original design mounts and later did the tie-down method. Shift kit and torque can be blamed, but my driving impulses to lay-it-down took their tole on the mounts every so often. With the solid mount, peace of mind has been replenished and my peace is able to be sustained due to the fact that noise and vibration increase is quite minimal if even noticeable. I have never thought to go back to rubber on driver side, although I don't go to shows.