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how do i do front wheel bearing replacement on 1972 culass

Old May 24, 2014 | 11:14 AM
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how do i do front wheel bearing replacement on 1972 culass

How do i replace the front wheel bearings on a 1972 cutlass
Old May 24, 2014 | 01:16 PM
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I deleted your other post as a 70 and 72 wheel bearing replacement is the same. Do you have disc or drum brakes?
Old May 24, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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There disk and thank u i found out after
Old May 24, 2014 | 05:05 PM
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Let us know if you have any problems, it's not very hard. When you have them out clean them up really good, inspect for pits on the bearings and races. If there is any doubt replace them, they're not very expensive.
Old May 24, 2014 | 05:11 PM
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Is there any like hub nuts hold it on and if so do u know the tourqe for the nut
Old May 24, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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There is one hub nut, I tighten until there is no lateral movement in the wheel. You can get a downloadable version of the chassis manual on wildaboutcars.com it's free to join.
Old May 24, 2014 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chummel8569
Is there any like hub nuts hold it on and if so do u know the tourqe for the nut
There is a very specific procedure in the Chassis Service Manual for setting the bearing preload properly.
Follow it and you will have no problems.

- Eric
Old May 24, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
There is a very specific procedure in the Chassis Service Manual for setting the bearing preload properly.
Follow it and you will have no problems.

- Eric
Agreed.
Loose is obviously bad.
Too tight is bad.
Generally you tighten to a certain torque while rotating the wheel, then back off and bring it down tight again just until all play is removed, then line up the castle nut slots with a spindle hole [may be more than one to choose from].

Bearing in mind [ha ha] that within the hub is the outer RACE for the bearings, which to me is part of the bearing, and as such usually comes with the new bearing, but some folks insist on calling it a separate part. To remove those generally requires a long drift [punch, rod, dowel, etc.] and just tap it out by going 'round and 'round the thing until it comes out. Tap the new one in [or use the special driver if you have or can borrow one] in much the same way- being sure that it bottoms out in the cavity and sounds solid when you are done, like you are striking the hub itself.

Stuff the bearings full of the proper grease and off you go.
Old May 24, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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Also replace the seal they are cheap.
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