How do I change points on my 1972 CUtlass 350 S?
#1
How do I change points on my 1972 CUtlass 350 S?
My car studders when I press the gas and I heard it was my points in the distributor. I dont see any screw that is holding it down and I didnt put too much pressure lifting it out. if anyone knows please tell me. Its all Original so no aftermarket distributor.
#2
Once the cap is off and the rotor is removed, it should look similar to the pic below. Note the screw holding the points to the plate:
Before replacing the points, I would recommend you ensure they are adjusted properly. If that doesn't help, then replace them.
Before replacing the points, I would recommend you ensure they are adjusted properly. If that doesn't help, then replace them.
Last edited by Fun71; August 12th, 2014 at 03:25 PM.
#3
Sorry back from work. Thanks it got a little better. If I replace it do i have to gap anything or adjust it? Another question. I have the 14'' Rally rims on it and its drums all around. Would I be able to get discs on it?
#6
- Did you realize that the car in your avatar photo is a Datsun Z?
- Why do you think that your "studder" is caused by your points? Where did you "hear" that the problem was your points? Was it the voices, or was there an actual source, and, if so, on what did this source base its opinion?
- Points are easy to change, and should be changed roughly every year or 12,000 miles as part of your annual tune-up. They need to be gapped properly, and this is best (and most easily) achieved, as stated above, with a dwell meter. After new points are installed, or after you re-set your dwell angle, you should recheck and readjust your timing with a timing light.
- To change your points,
- unlatch the two cap retaining screw by rotating 90°,
- remove cap,
- unscrew two screws and remove rotor (do not remove screws from rotor),
- loosen (do not remove) the two screws that retain the points and
- loosen the screw that holds the wire on the points.
- Replacement is the reverse, and after installed, the dwell angle needs to be readjusted.
- The condenser is retained by a single screw and can be replaced easily.
As stated above, the Chassis Service Manual is an essential resource, and a copy can be obtained for free from WildAboutCars.
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
#7
The gap is the distance (.016") between the two round contacts on the point set which make and break contact as the points open and close WHEN the rubbing block of the point set is on one of the eight high points of the cam located on the center shaft of the distributor.
In order to get the points fully open on the high point of the eight point cam the engine must be cranked or turned by hand. One could loosen and turn the distributor to get on a high point but then the timing must also be adjusted. The adjustment screw on the point set is then turned until the gap creates a light drag on a feeler gauge as it is pulled through the contacts.
Dwell/gap must be set before timing as it does change the timing; conversely, timing does not change dwell/gap.
Setting the gap by dwell is easier and more accurate in my opinion.
In order to get the points fully open on the high point of the eight point cam the engine must be cranked or turned by hand. One could loosen and turn the distributor to get on a high point but then the timing must also be adjusted. The adjustment screw on the point set is then turned until the gap creates a light drag on a feeler gauge as it is pulled through the contacts.
Dwell/gap must be set before timing as it does change the timing; conversely, timing does not change dwell/gap.
Setting the gap by dwell is easier and more accurate in my opinion.
#8
yes I know I have a datsun z as my picture. I didn't have a picture of my cutlass so i put my datsun on there. I didn't want no picture on there. People told me and a few mechanics told me this since it wasn't anything to do with fuel delivery and that was the last option. and also I adjusted it a bit and I did get some better results so im almost definite thats the problem. In reply of MDcanic
#9
My car was doing the same thing. I just replaced my stuff with a pertonix ignitor. I am told they last a long time and you do not have to worry about points. Got rid of the points and condenser and placed them in a box in the trunk if I ever decide to go back. Also decided to replace the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and spark plug wires. The car fires right up now and feels very powerful. I did it the hard way and pulled the distributor out and worked on my buddies workbench. Do not forget about the vacuum just below the cap. Threw a timing light on it at 8 degrees @ 1100 rpms.
#10
My car was doing the same thing. I just replaced my stuff with a pertonix ignitor. I am told they last a long time and you do not have to worry about points. Got rid of the points and condenser and placed them in a box in the trunk if I ever decide to go back. Also decided to replace the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and spark plug wires. The car fires right up now and feels very powerful. I did it the hard way and pulled the distributor out and worked on my buddies workbench. Do not forget about the vacuum just below the cap. Threw a timing light on it at 8 degrees @ 1100 rpms.
Last edited by CutlassS1972; August 13th, 2014 at 10:02 PM.
#18
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