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My top button seems like it did it's last up movement. It appears to be a non-original one. I've read that some of the replacement ones are not too great, and I'd like to only do this only once.
Anyone know where to get a good quality one and what the best way to get in to replace it?
The car is an A/C car so from accessing it from under the panel seems tough. Maybe through the glove box, but will the box come out from the front, doesn't look like it.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Dave
Nobody else has replied, so I will. The glove box will come out the front of the dash, remove all the screws and gently push the box back and the cardboard will flex enough to come out through the hole sideways.
The switch is easy to access after that. I think the factory screws that hold it are 1/4 inch hex-head, mine have been replaced with phillips-head.
If you don't want to do it again run 12V power directly to a couple relays at the pump and use your switch to actuate the relay. Those stock switches never handled the direct 12V power very well.
I can't remember who drew this up but I saved it years ago for whenever my switch died. Fortunately mine still operates...
Last edited by allyolds68; Oct 7, 2024 at 05:45 AM.
Thanks, it sounds like a good thing to do.
I think my switch is physically broke. It doesn't center well and doesn't actuate the top consistently. The switch isn't original to the car and is built like crap it seems. I was trying to find information on getting a better quality switch but couldn't find any.
I really only want to do this once.
The bad part is this switch if I jiggle it, it will activate the motor. It would be sad if the motor got stuck running when I wasn't in the car or even while driving, and either kill the motor or activate the top at 60 mph.
.....I think my switch is physically broke. It doesn't center well and doesn't actuate the top consistently. The switch isn't original to the car and is built like crap it seems. I was trying to find information on getting a better quality switch but couldn't find any.
I really only want to do this once....
Fusick (probably others too) repro's the switch. part #CTS667 $83
Thanks, it sounds like a good thing to do.
I think my switch is physically broke. It doesn't center well and doesn't actuate the top consistently. The switch isn't original to the car and is built like crap it seems. I was trying to find information on getting a better quality switch but couldn't find any.
I really only want to do this once.
The bad part is this switch if I jiggle it, it will activate the motor. It would be sad if the motor got stuck running when I wasn't in the car or even while driving, and either kill the motor or activate the top at 60 mph.
The top motor does not have the leverage to beat your windshield clamps, so rest easy on it putting the top down when you don't want it.
Koda, wasn't concerned about it beating the clamps, I was concerned about if the top was down and just started going up unexpectedly or trying to run if clamped down burning out the motor. I got a new switch from OPG, doesn't look real robust. When I remove the current switch I'll look at what failed. I suspect the part the switch toggle mounts to is bent. The switch isn't very complicated.
Cheers
Dave
Alright here's the scoop, the last person who put in the switch used the wrong screws and broke the mounts for the switch. Douch bags!!!
Anybody have a good way to reconstruct the mounts for this switch? I can probably figure out a way, but why reinvent the wheel if not necessary.
The switch I have may be ok as it was jammed by the instrument panel and locking the switch so it would try to stay on.
I had to replace my convertible top switch in my 66' 442 after I installed my new "Ron Roth" dash. Let me tell you it wasn't easy. Not enough room to get your arm in with just taking out the glove box insert. It went better after I dropped the radio down and went at it from uderneath (after I removed the passenger bucket seat that was in the way). The nuts are 1/4" and I went slow as not to F*&^ anything up....
I just replaced my top switch and built up a new mounting scheme. I ground the posts down and used phenolic resin pad to make a new mounting surface. I used machine screws and ground two sides of the screw top and made a slotted hole in the pad. It allows some movement for switch mounting. I used double sided tape to mount the pads to the back side of the panel. Worked out pretty well if I don't say so myself.
I bought a new switch and mounted it. It worked well until the switch contacts stuck in the opening position. The switches are pretty crappy, don't think they can handle the current of the motor well.
I'm going to take the advice of allyolds68's suggestion and build up a relay setup where the relay takes the load, and the switch only needs to activate the relay.
BTW, the switch is pretty simple and easily cleaned to make it work again.
I had to replace my convertible top switch in my 66' 442 after I installed my new "Ron Roth" dash. Let me tell you it wasn't easy. Not enough room to get your arm in with just taking out the glove box insert. It went better after I dropped the radio down and went at it from uderneath (after I removed the passenger bucket seat that was in the way). The nuts are 1/4" and I went slow as not to F*&^ anything up....
How was installing a new dash? I'm thinking about doing something like that someday. The guy who owned the car before me installed a new radio and it looks like he hacked up the panel. The rest of the panel is like any 50 year old panel looks. Would make it look much better.
Why install a radio and speakers hacking up a perfectly nice car when portable Bluetooth speakers are available, and they sound pretty good?
If the dash is out of the car you can rebuild the mounting posts. The lower dash plastic is ABS. You can ABS cement to rebuild and reinforce the mounting posts; just clean the plastic with some rubbing alcohol and scuff it up for good adhesion. This is what I used to modify my dash.