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control arm bushings help

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Old January 5th, 2015, 05:15 PM
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control arm bushings help

Not sure if this is the place to post this, but I was wanting some advice on the control arm bushings on my 69 cutlass. I just got a 20 ton press, and I have been told to get those old ones out I will need to cut them out with a hacksaw/sawzall. I have a few ideas on how to get it out with out gouging the arm. I am wondering how I press the new ones in since they have the oval bushings for one side. any advice on this?
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Old January 5th, 2015, 05:26 PM
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There are threads on this... Heat the rubber with a torch, and the rubber comes out really easy. The post says you are from Idaho, so you are probably dealing with lots of rust as well. You might want to try the Acetone / ATF equal parts mix and apply it to where the bushing shells fit into the control arm. put it on and let them soak overnight. If you wish to cut them out, just be careful not to score the openings in the control arms. If you wish to press them out, make sure you put a tight fitting spacer between the surfaces of the control arms or you will mess them up! Good luck, and have a handy supply of Beer!
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Old January 5th, 2015, 05:27 PM
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I don't know if you've seen this thread yet, but there's lots of good info in it on removing and installing control arm bushings, which helped me a TON when I did mine.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-end-job.html
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Old January 5th, 2015, 06:11 PM
  #4  
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I drilled out the rubber part of the bushing with a 1/4" drill bit, then beat the outer collar of the bushing with a drift to collapse the outer dimension (just don't damage the control arm in the process). Once you bend the the outer collar in on itself, you can hammer them right on through. On the reinstall, cut some half-circle pieces of 4" PVC pipe to lay inside the control arm flange so you don't bend the control arm with your big 'ol 20-ton press. A little WD-40 helps the new bushings go in easier. I didn't have a big press so I used a ball joint tool and a big breaker bar (to get some leverage). Worked pretty well for me. Good luck.
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Old January 5th, 2015, 07:18 PM
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Replacing the bushings is not that bad. Although I've always used a bench vise, a bfh, and an old socket, a press will work fine with reinstalling them. Just have to be careful and provide support so as not to bend the control arm.
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Old January 5th, 2015, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
... Just have to be careful and provide support so as not to bend the control arm.
this ^^^^

and you can just dent in one side of the old bushing w a cold chisel and BFH and they knock out easy little work and no smell
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Old January 6th, 2015, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 1969cutlass4d
I am wondering how I press the new ones in since they have the oval bushings for one side. any advice on this?
There are special Kent-Moore bushing tools that are oval shaped for this. I was lucky enough to score a set on ebay, but they are difficult to find. Your best bet is to fabricate a press fixture from a piece of steel channel that is the correct spacing to just bear on the metal flange of the bushing. Do not press on the rubber, as this will make it difficult to get the bushing installed properly.
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Old January 6th, 2015, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
this ^^^^

and you can just dent in one side of the old bushing w a cold chisel and BFH and they knock out easy little work and no smell
I think you were fortunate when you did yours. I have now done two complete sets, front and rear, and worked up a sweat both times.........
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Old January 6th, 2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyS
I think you were fortunate when you did yours. I have now done two complete sets, front and rear, and worked up a sweat both times.........
X2. I've never been able to dent the shells without first burning out the rubber. I've not tried it yet, but I hear that using a Rotozip tool to cut out the rubber also works without the smell and mess.
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Old January 6th, 2015, 11:26 AM
  #10  
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Some additional advice on the install. Make sure the bushing bores are clean. Dont remove any metal as your cleaning the bores as you need to keep the ID intact. I put the new bushings in the freezer for an hour. I gently evenly heat the bushing holes with propane to no more than 120-130*F. Then I use a MFH (medium hammer) and socket to drive them home. They tap right in with ease avoiding any distortion and major beatings.
My first time at this an old timer said just beat them out and and beat them in. While this was effective I have scene refined my techniques using finesse and temperature to my advantage. Hope this helps.
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