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control arm bushings

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Old April 10th, 2012, 06:31 PM
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control arm bushings

I have a 68 442 ragtop with the left front lower control arm that has one round and one oval bushing but the right side has two round bushings, which is correct for a 68?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:03 PM
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They came both ways - first I've heard on the same car!
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Could be the left side was changed out at one time or another?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:12 PM
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This car has been had by everyone so one being changed doesn't surprise me. I thought I heard somewhere that the round was earlier and was upgraded to the oval for some reason.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:17 PM
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The oval gave a smoother ride and less precise steering, the round was slightly tighter feeling. Rounds were used on higher performance and heavier duty cars, like ElCaminos, C'velle SS's and some wagons, ovals were used on softer cars, like Cutlii and Skylarks.

- Eric
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:20 PM
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So ,does it really matter whether or not you replace them with the same type?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:27 PM
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No. They will all feel like driving through cotton candy compared to a modern car, or to a set of polyurethane bushings.

- Eric
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:33 PM
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Ever hear of the 'round peg in oval hole' game?? Doesn't work!
You must replace what's there with the same as came out!
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:39 PM
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Allan's and Rob's thread worked miracles for me when i was doing my CA bushings last week. I ALMOST put in the two upper bushings before putting the shaft in. But i re-read lady's front end job and thankfully i caught it in the knick of time.

Also, those 2'' plastic pipe things really hold up against the pressure, it's quite impressive.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickman48
Ever hear of the 'round peg in oval hole' game?? Doesn't work!
Obviously you never met me in person... SBFH gets 'em in!

Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
I ALMOST put in the two upper bushings before putting the shaft in.
That defines "bad mechanic's luck." I almost put in one of my offset shafts in backwards - that would have been worse...
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickman48
Ever hear of the 'round peg in oval hole' game?? Doesn't work!
Well, obviously, you've got to change the whole lower control arm.

Or at least I thought it was obvious...

- Eric
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Obviously you never met me in person... SBFH gets 'em in!


That defines "bad mechanic's luck." I almost put in one of my offset shafts in backwards - that would have been worse...
Luckily i got a set of OEM cutlass shafts from Scott, so i can't mess that one up
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Well, obviously, you've got to change the whole lower control arm.

Or at least I thought it was obvious...

- Eric
Eric, It's so much easier to change the control arms with the fenders off....

And then the steering box is.. right there..

M

A

W
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Old April 10th, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Whats this plastic pipe trick?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Easier to paint the frame and firewall with all that stuffage gone, too... Thats THE time to replace thar brake booster, while you are at it.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by montvaleplace
Whats this plastic pipe trick?
See where how simple pipe fittings can help get your bushings in!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295288
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Old April 10th, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
See where how simple pipe fittings can help get your bushings in!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295288
5 bucks of pipe and PVC tubing and your balljoint/bushing job will be a breeze. It actually blew my mind, i dont know how i would have done it without them.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Real nice thread! There's some good ideas in it.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by montvaleplace
Real nice thread! There's some good ideas in it.
I basically had my phone open on these threads while i was doing my balljoints and other suspension stuff. It was a big help.

If you want a laugh, take a look at my thread, it's 3% suspension work, 97% cleaning rust and crap off my car.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cutlass-s.html
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Old April 11th, 2012, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
If you want a laugh, take a look at my thread, it's 3% suspension work, 97% cleaning rust and crap off my car.
Kinda like how mine was. And I ened up cleaning more off my car than just rust - more like the whole engine bay!
However, it sure looks nice now...
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Old April 11th, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Sounds like one oval hole control arm or one round hole control arm is needed.

[QUOTE=Lady72nRob71;392851


That defines "bad mechanic's luck." I almost put in one of my offset shafts in backwards - that would have been worse...[/QUOTE]

All you would have to do is spin the shaft around to face the other way wouldn't you? I don't think end for end means anything? I sure hope not.
I had to use the offset shafts on my Custom Cruiser, only thing you can get new. The old ones had worn off teeth that grab the bushing, the new ones have no teeth and give you a couple of toothed washers. I would of bought or found a couple of toothed washers if I would of known that.
The front end parts were almost almost identical to my Vista Cruiser except for some braces for the lower rear control arm mount, not much changed in 20 years. Those braces wouldn't be a bad idea on older models, seen a lot with broken welds or bent mounts.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluevista
All you would have to do is spin the shaft around to face the other way wouldn't you? I don't think end for end means anything?
It would be horrible for "WHEEL SIDE" text to be upside down...
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:03 PM
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According to the parts book, Olds went to the oval bushing early in the 69 model year.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Kinda like how mine was. And I ened up cleaning more off my car than just rust - more like the whole engine bay!
However, it sure looks nice now...
Speaking of horrible rust, look what a leaky master cylinder did to my moraine booster.



I'm ordering the new MC off amazon.com right now and going to clean up and paint the booster.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:15 PM
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What a mess... I did not think just brake fluid did that.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
What a mess... I did not think just brake fluid did that.
Yeah.... I'm DEFINITELY getting a new master cylinder. I dont want to chance blowing something on the highway when i really need the brakes.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Maybe you should have your booster rebuilt. No telling how the internals look...
<<WHACK!>> - You just got MAWed...
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
What a mess... I did not think just brake fluid did that.
It doesn't. Most of that corrosion and pitting is from how the car was stored. Personally (sorry Tony) I don't think it's worth saving.

Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
Yeah.... I'm DEFINITELY getting a new master cylinder. I dont want to chance blowing something on the highway when i really need the brakes.
Best thing to do Tony. BTW, if the power booster failed, you'd still have brakes but they would work like crap. After looking at that pic of yours? I'd be suspicious about how thin some of the metal on the front has got. If you want to keep costs down, check with Scott or Eric to see if they have a really good used one you can pick up cheap and redo.

I bought my replacement booster from Crane Corvettes last year. Their prices aren't that bad even now, and you could get good shipping to your drop box. They package really well and were easy to deal with. The quality is as good as the pics in this auction show: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/67-72-Chevell...item19ca055285
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Maybe you should have your booster rebuilt. No telling how the internals look...
<<WHACK!>> - You just got MAWed...
What did it cost when you got yours rebuilt?

A brand new booster with delco stamp is 115 bucks shipping included.

I actually just bought a Balljoint tool, i would rent it from my local store, but i have 4 cars to do balljoints on this spring, and at that rate, the tool will have paid itself off.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
It doesn't. Most of that corrosion and pitting is from how the car was stored. Personally (sorry Tony) I don't think it's worth saving.

Best thing to do Tony. BTW, if the power booster failed, you'd still have brakes but they would work like crap. After looking at that pic of yours? I'd be suspicious about how thin some of the metal on the front has got. If you want to keep costs down, check with Scott or Eric to see if they have a really good used one you can pick up cheap and redo.

I bought my replacement booster from Crane Corvettes last year. Their prices aren't that bad even now, and you could get good shipping to your drop box. They package really well and were easy to deal with. The quality is as good as the pics in this auction show: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/67-72-Chevell...item19ca055285
Cool! I'm kind of leaning the same way Al... I REALLY dont enjoy cleaning dirt and grime off old parts anymore. I'll do it to save a buck, but when it comes to my brake system, i get kind of nervous..

did you take any pictures of your
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Al,

i was looking at this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-72-Cutlas...c6ca11&vxp=mtr
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by montvaleplace
Real nice thread! There's some good ideas in it.
By the way, sorry we hijacked your thread, we have a bad habit of doing that...

Its worse when people are trying to sell stuff and this happens lol
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