Column mounted dimmer switch replacement
September 15th, 2016, 09:08 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 31
Column mounted dimmer switch replacement
Hey guys!
Need to replace the dimmer switch on my 83' delta 88 royale sedan. Switch is column mounted on a tilt column.
Having a hard time finding a how-to or even a plan of attack for getting the job done. CSM didn't really tell me much about the job and I'm not coming up with much while searching.
Can anybody point me in the right direction or give any tips? Not sure on where I should start with this one.
Any help is greatly appreciated
-Wood
Need to replace the dimmer switch on my 83' delta 88 royale sedan. Switch is column mounted on a tilt column.
Having a hard time finding a how-to or even a plan of attack for getting the job done. CSM didn't really tell me much about the job and I'm not coming up with much while searching.
Can anybody point me in the right direction or give any tips? Not sure on where I should start with this one.
Any help is greatly appreciated
-Wood
September 16th, 2016, 12:31 PM
#2
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,295
Unless you have really skinny and flexible arms, the lower trim pad on the dash has to come off and you'll have to lower the steering column for access. There's a specific procedure you have to use to align the new switch and adjust the actuator rod from the T/S lever.
I don't have my 83 CSM handy but I think the procedure is under steering column section.
I don't have my 83 CSM handy but I think the procedure is under steering column section.
September 23rd, 2016, 08:29 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 31
About to order a new ac delco dimmer switch for the car but more problems now. Leaving a car show tonight, I turned on the headlights and flash- the high beams were all on, and clicking the dimmer switch still did nothing. The high beams were now stuck on. After about 30 seconds the headlights started flickering randomly- Sometimes keeping the headlights off for 2+ seconds. Talk about a stressful drive home, I can't imagine what other drivers thought- an oncoming car going from high beams to nothing randomly. Does this sound like a bad dimmer still?
(Before this occasion, the high beams just simply stopped working, clicking the switch did nothing but the low beams worked just fine-It has been like this for the past two weeks- I just figured a bad dimmer switch)
The car has regular halogens, I haven't touched a single thing under the dash, or anything to do with the lighting or charging system. The flashing occurs in a completely random fashion. I did notice that clicking the dimmer switch on the column did produce an extremely short cutting out of the headlights, in between clicks (Not really sure how to word that). Like the dimmer switch rod is still working the switch correctly.
Just asking here before I order the switch in case I need to order more parts.
Pretty sure this car is possessed, anybody thinking of making a Christine 2?
(Before this occasion, the high beams just simply stopped working, clicking the switch did nothing but the low beams worked just fine-It has been like this for the past two weeks- I just figured a bad dimmer switch)
The car has regular halogens, I haven't touched a single thing under the dash, or anything to do with the lighting or charging system. The flashing occurs in a completely random fashion. I did notice that clicking the dimmer switch on the column did produce an extremely short cutting out of the headlights, in between clicks (Not really sure how to word that). Like the dimmer switch rod is still working the switch correctly.
Just asking here before I order the switch in case I need to order more parts.
Pretty sure this car is possessed, anybody thinking of making a Christine 2?
October 2nd, 2016, 08:41 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 31
Just to update, replacing the dimmer switch fixed all of my headlight problems. I replaced it with an ac delco switch from rockauto.
For those looking for some clarification on the process, I wrote this how-to (This is for a column mounted switch)
First you need to remove the lower dash pad- All 7mm hex heads in my case. You can disconnect the parking brake release handle about 8 inches into the footwell in order to fully get the lower cover out of the way.- trust me, it's there.
-Get the a/c ducting out of the way.
-remove the little trim piece on the bottom of that dash that covers the lower half of the steering column
-Unplug the dimmer switch- make sure the plug/wiring is not damaged or melted before continuing (There are replacement plugs and wiring available if need be) This is where I plugged in the new switch to test if the new switch solved my problems before continuing (it did)
-There are two small 8mm head bolts that hold the switch to the column. If you can't find them, look at the new switch and you'll see where they'd have to be. As you can see (or in better word feel), they are towards the top of the column angled down, making them difficult to get to- in my case, I decided to drop the column for access.
-The large bracket that holds the steering column in place was in the way of getting to the rearward dimmer bolt, so I decided to completely remove the large bracket to both lower the column and to gain access to the rear dimmer bolt. With a helper supporting the column to prevent it from dropping down, I completely removed the bracket. I think it was four 13mm bolts attaching the bracket to the column and two 15 mm nuts attaching the bracket to the body of the car.
-With the helper lowering the column an inch or two for access, (Not too far, there appeared to be a thin ground wire above the column that would've easily broken, look for it so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about) remove the two dimmer switch bolts.
-Before completely removing the switch hold the dimmer rod in place to prevent it falling out of place when you remove the switch.
- While holding the rod, install the new switch and get the 8mm attachment screws started.
-As you may have noticed the switch has slots instead of holes for adjustment- You guessed it, we need to adjust the dimmer's position for optimal performance.
-With the column pushed back up to its original position, play around pushing the turn signal lever to operate the switch and adjust the switch's position to where everything feels right.
-Tighten down the dimmer switch attachment bolts.
-Reinstall the column bracket
-Thank your helper and grab them a cold one
-Plug in the switch
-Finish reassembly of the under dash
-Reconnect the battery check to make sure the headlights are operating correctly
-Give yourself a pat on the back, you have working headlights again!
Hope this helps anyone looking for clarification on the process! -Wood
For those looking for some clarification on the process, I wrote this how-to (This is for a column mounted switch)
First you need to remove the lower dash pad- All 7mm hex heads in my case. You can disconnect the parking brake release handle about 8 inches into the footwell in order to fully get the lower cover out of the way.- trust me, it's there.
-Get the a/c ducting out of the way.
-remove the little trim piece on the bottom of that dash that covers the lower half of the steering column
-Unplug the dimmer switch- make sure the plug/wiring is not damaged or melted before continuing (There are replacement plugs and wiring available if need be) This is where I plugged in the new switch to test if the new switch solved my problems before continuing (it did)
-There are two small 8mm head bolts that hold the switch to the column. If you can't find them, look at the new switch and you'll see where they'd have to be. As you can see (or in better word feel), they are towards the top of the column angled down, making them difficult to get to- in my case, I decided to drop the column for access.
-The large bracket that holds the steering column in place was in the way of getting to the rearward dimmer bolt, so I decided to completely remove the large bracket to both lower the column and to gain access to the rear dimmer bolt. With a helper supporting the column to prevent it from dropping down, I completely removed the bracket. I think it was four 13mm bolts attaching the bracket to the column and two 15 mm nuts attaching the bracket to the body of the car.
-With the helper lowering the column an inch or two for access, (Not too far, there appeared to be a thin ground wire above the column that would've easily broken, look for it so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about) remove the two dimmer switch bolts.
-Before completely removing the switch hold the dimmer rod in place to prevent it falling out of place when you remove the switch.
- While holding the rod, install the new switch and get the 8mm attachment screws started.
-As you may have noticed the switch has slots instead of holes for adjustment- You guessed it, we need to adjust the dimmer's position for optimal performance.
-With the column pushed back up to its original position, play around pushing the turn signal lever to operate the switch and adjust the switch's position to where everything feels right.
-Tighten down the dimmer switch attachment bolts.
-Reinstall the column bracket
-Thank your helper and grab them a cold one
-Plug in the switch
-Finish reassembly of the under dash
-Reconnect the battery check to make sure the headlights are operating correctly
-Give yourself a pat on the back, you have working headlights again!
Hope this helps anyone looking for clarification on the process! -Wood
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