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Cold Natured Quick Fuel 750 Carb - Choke is closed

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Old November 10th, 2015, 05:32 PM
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Cold Natured Quick Fuel 750 Carb - Choke is closed

Working on my '72 Cutlass 455. Installed new Pertronix distributor with Ignitor II and Flamethrower coil, finally got it running after they sent me a new module. Timing is at the top notch on scale and the car starts and turns off fine with no dieseling when it's warmed up. Idles best right at 1-1/4 turns out on the air screws, that is when it's warmed up. When cold it's rough as heck, had to pump it this morning (40 degrees outside), choke plate is closed off completely and it doesn't fast idle like it wants to die (have to push choke open). When warm at 800 rpm idle getting 13 lbs vacuum. Another thing, I'm getting 16 volts at the battery and all connections and electric choke while running, is this normal? I don't know why choke is shut completely when I first start it. Loosening the three screws I have rotated it counter-clockwise slightly, this rocks the plate open but only after I push it open to keep the car from dying. Also adjusted fast idle screw some with no results. Any ideas from anyone.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 05:19 AM
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16v is a problem with the regulator, it should never be that high. When you go to start your cold engine, do you pump the gas once to set the choke? When you pump the gas on a running cold engine it may be releasing off the high idle setting and going to the curb idle setting. Just arbitrarily setting the carb to 1.25 turns and listening to the engine may not yield a good curb idle mixture. I generally adjust for the highest warmed up vacuum level while keeping both a/f mixtures screws with the same amount of turns.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 06:16 AM
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If the carb has a choke pull-off diaphragm ect. Then you need to adjust the amount it pulls the choke butterfly open. It sounds like the choke butterfly isn't opening enough causing it to run too rich. If there is no pull-off, then you need to start it cold and while it is blubbering. Loosen the three screws that hold the choke coil and back off the tension on the choke until you get a smooth fast idle. You might have to tweak I a little each cold start until you find the happy medium. Also make sure the butterfly moves smoothly and is not sticking in the closed position. Good luck!
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Old November 11th, 2015, 07:59 AM
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Thanks for the replies....So I tried just pushing the pedal once. Took a second try with the key to start. I did what gs72 said and turned the choke coil clockwise to rotate the choke open, although within a minute it was starting to open on it's own. I will play with that adjustment, the problem is it closes completely when I first try to start it. I will let it get cold and try it again. I did adjust the a/f screws while the car was warm, although there wasn't much change from the factory settings. I'm at 13 on vacuum gauge. As far as the 16 volts, I'm getting this at the battery terminals too, maybe a bad alternator? Could the higher voltage be throwing the electric choke off, causing it to close completely?
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Old November 11th, 2015, 09:06 AM
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The higher voltage is not throwing the choke off. If you keep running it with the 16v you will however be buying a battery.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
The higher voltage is not throwing the choke off. If you keep running it with the 16v you will however be buying a battery.
.... and light bulbs and a bunch of other electrical stuff.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 01:54 PM
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Thanks, I've ordered an AC/Delco D663 voltage regulator but it won't be here until next Wednesday or so. I'll change it first then I have an AC/Delco alternator on standby. This thing has drug out into cold weather. lol. I see what you all mean by MAW.
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Old November 11th, 2015, 02:49 PM
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Oooooh no, you have just scratched the MAW surface. You are no where near afflicted yet.
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