So I bought a Cold Case radiator part # GMA43AB. for a 1971 442. My old brass radiator had a leak and instead of repairing I wanted to go aluminum based on everything I read saying they run cooler and where I live summers get hot. They advertise OEM (drop in) replacement but when I went to install mine I found the filler cap was pointed straight up vs on a 45 degree angle like my original. It also sat up about an inch higher. I mocked it up in the radiator brackets, borrowed some of my kids playdough set it on the cap and closed the hood, it smashed it down to where I could see the hood is contacting the filler cap. Curious if anyone else had this issue, I do have a W25 style hood if that makes a difference. Also the upper tans cooler line is about 4 inches higher than the original radiator. Cold Case customer service is closed on the weekends just checking if anyone else had problems with theirs considering I saw others on here running them. Thanks (below are some pictures)

 

I would have a replacement core installed in your original radiator. Have them install a 4-core radiator in the original tanks. If it worked well in all climates when the car was new, it should also work today. I did this with my 1962 air-conditioned car, and I increased the cooling and maintained the original fit and finish.

 

Ok. How is that done? Ive never had a radiator re-cored. Do they replace the whole middle section and reuse use the tanks? My factory temp gauge was hitting just about 3/4's of the way up in bumper to bumper freeway traffic on a 90 degree day, so i bought a 160 degree thermostat and I thought it would be easier to go with a new aluminum one but turns out not the "cold" case.

 

If the center section of the radiator is worn out, it can be replaced, but let's try cleaning it before we spend money on a replacement radiator core. Here are the instructions for cleaning the radiator and engine block.

Reinstall your original radiator, and then we will clean the entire system. Following my instructions as I post for the best results is essential. This is a method that I learned over 65 years ago. You will start by draining the system, removing the thermostat, and reinstalling the thermostat housing. Then, install the upper hose and clamps, and the lower hose and clamp only on the engine side. The only thing that you will need to purchase is a box of Arm & Hammer Washing Soda and a box of baking soda. Get a 5-gallon pail and fill it with about a gallon of warm water, and dissolve a cup of washing soda in the water. Next, pour the washing soda solution into the radiator, and using a hose, fill the radiator to the top, but don't put the cap on. The reason for not putting the cap on is that we don't want to pressurize the cooling system during cleaning. Start the engine, let it run until the water is hot, and then shut it off. Be careful not to get burned, and carefully remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Then, all the solution will drain out onto the ground. Now walk away for an hour or two, so the engine will cool to ambient temperature. Then you will put the lower radiator hose back on and repeat the cleaning process with washing soda and water. Repeat the process until the solution is as clean as when you put it in. You can observe the solution from the filler neck. This method will clean all rust from the inside of the engine block. Now that the engine block is clean, move the heater control to the fully open position, and run the solution through the heater core to clean it. This may be done once to clean the heater core because they usually aren't that dirty or you can do it after the third cleaning process because it should only take 4 or 5 cleanings to get the block and radiator clean. Once you feel confident that everything is fully cleaned, you will give the final rinse and neutralize the cleaning process by using the box of baking soda dissolved with the clean water in the pail. Remember, NEVER PUT COLD WATER INTO THE HOT ENGINE BLOCK. If you put cold water into a hot engine, you will crack the engine block and ruin the engine! The cleaning process might take you a day or two, allowing time for the engine to cool between treatments. One final rinse and draining will be with only water. Allow the engine to cool, and reinstall the thermostat and the one hose you used to drain the engine. Fill with a new solution of 50/50 antifreeze. Your car should now run at the proper engine temperature, and if you are really lucky, you will not need to have the radiator serviced.
If you want to replace the heater hoses, the best and safest way is to cut the hose off about 2" from the firewall using a sharp knife or even a razor, being careful not to cut yourself. Once the hoses are cut off, carefully remove the clamps, being careful not to damage the heater core nipples. Once the clamps are removed, cut a line in the hose until it is cut all the way through. Now, using a small flat blade screwdriver, carefully insert it into the cut on the hose and gently pry the hose off the nipple in a rotating direction. You don't want to put any pressure on the heater core nipple since it is soldered to the core, and you don't want to break that connection. I can't impress on you enough that this must be done slowly and carefully, not to damage the heater core nipples. I would practice making the cuts on the engine side of the heater hoses since they are connected with steel and are much stronger than the heater core ends. To install the new hoses onto the heater core nipples, you will need to lubricate them so they slip on easily. You can purchase a tube of KY lubricant at the drug store. It is water soluble, and the best way to get hoses onto the fittings without damaging anything. I suggest you use the old hoses to measure the new ones so they will fit properly. Don't forget to calculate the cut-off pieces for the total measurement.
If you have questions, ask before you start this project. If you are unsure how to remove a particular clamp on the heater hose at the core side, post what type it is, and I will help you with directions. If the hoses are original factory hoses, they might have "tower" clamps, "Corbin" clamps, or "worm gear" clamps.

For those reading this, this cleaning method is unsuitable for aluminum radiators and will damage them. It is only used for brass radiators like the ones installed when the car was new.

 

I would contact ColdCase.

 

Unfortunately your first mistake is assuming that any aftermarket part will be a "drop in replacement" on an Oldsmobile. These vendors assume that Chevelle is synonymous with GM.

 

I put a Cold Case radiator in my 75 Hurst Olds last year. It was a drop in and fit perfectly. The only thing I had to do was bend the upper transmission cooler up just a little bit. It dropped my temperature about 20°. Hundred degree days with the AC on are no longer a problem. I will put it out soon and paint the tanks so it is not as noticeable. Like Erick suggested, I would call Cold Case.

 

It looks like you would be better off with the GMA42AB.

 

In this case, this year Chevelle radiator and the Olds as well as all other A bodies should be the same pn.

 

If you try to have your original re-cored, be prepared to pay $600-$1000 or possibly more. When I had one done in 2019, the final bill was $800.

 

I have used the GMA42AB in 70-72 Cutlasses and it fit fine. The water neck on the GMA43AB doesn't look correct at all for a 70-72.

For a 1971 442 the GMA42AB radiator should bolt right in provided you have a four core top plate and bottom brackets.
Paint the radiator with Eastwood Radiator black or another similar paint and it looks reasonably close to stock except for the radiator cap.

 

Here's another aluminum rad alternative - I used one of these before in my '72 and they're made well. I have a regular hood but would presume no fitment issue with yours.

https://www.autocityclassic.com/chev...tor-sl-282-at/