harpelt

Anyone know of a good shop you trust in Central PA (Lancaster)? I need some work on my 1968 Cutlass. Possible trans rebuild, power steering pump replacement, tuneup. It died on me after a few cruises around the neighborhood last weekend. I noticed it idled very slowly at stop signs, almost died. And then finally did. Couldn't’ get it started again. Got it back in the garage and let it sit a few days and it started right up again! Not sure what to look at first.

Any recommendations would be welcome!

scj64

Need more information; has it been running fine up until then?
Clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, boiling fuel causing vapor lock, etc.???? It could be any of those so provide as much info as you can.

As far as a shop in general, most NAPA auto care centers can get you headed in the right direction.

harpelt

It was running just OK. The fuel pump and filter were replaced about 4k miles ago. The car has an Edelbrock 4Bbl carb on an aluminum intake that is also only 4k miles old. I can start it up and the electric choke keeps the RPMs up for a few minutes, then a quick tap on the gas and the RPMs drop to a regular idle speed. I notice that when the engine gets warmer the idle speed tends to drop a little too low to where I think it will stall, but it doesn't quite. I was wondering about the possible vapor lock issue. How do you check for that? It is hard to lean far enough over the carb to see into the bowl, but I can probably take a picture or video with my phone to see what's going on there.

Thanks!

scj64

Back in the ‘70’s, we would put clothes pins on the fuel line.....

Several things can contribute to such as fuel lines laying on engine, no return line, no tank vent, high under hood temperatures.