My '71 delta 88 royale vert is having issues with the windows not having any lower and the bench seat being sluggish. So I pulled a circuit from the fuse box that's I've never seen before and I can't find a replacement for.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this?

 

Rockauto $2.55

Amazon

Advance $6.00


How do you know that the one you've got is bad?

- Eric

 

Usually the pwr windows, seat and antenna etc. are activated through a power relay which is controlled by a fuse and not a circuit breaker such as in your pic. A sluggish seat could be needing lubrication. When you turn the key on, the relay will click, indicating it is active but it could be defective.

 

Honestly, I'm not sure it is. But I'm completely new to the Olds world and if I can just try and switch out plugs and clean off relay (once I find where they are located) to start off, that's a good start.

The windows worked worked a month ago, so the obvious solution was to check plugs and what not. I don't even get a click or anything with them now, yet the seat still moves.

The top clicks, but doesn't move, so that's my next issue.

Once I solve that, I have to figure out why by heater blower just gave out yesterday. Just a bunch of little things

 

I believe that they both work from the same breaker, so it's prbably not that, bt I'd have to check my FBM when I get home to be sure.

Very likely a bad relay (though the switches suck, too).
These relays suck, and usually burn their high-current points.
They can be replaced with much heavier-duty conventional relays, which will work flawlessly and last forever, or with identical replacements, which cost $50 each and will fail again one day.
They are the same relay as the seat motor uses, so if you have a spare one of those, you can swap it.

- Eric

 

Yes I believe that it is that same breaker, so I have hoping that the fact that neither were working great means that it COULD be the breaker. So I spend the $5 on the breaker in hopes that it's just that easy for me.

As for the relays, I have to look up where they are located and see if I could clean them off to get them working better.

Now, as for the top, it was already rewired to a more traditional switch, but now isn't working. That being said, I will have to check the location of that relay as well and see what I can and/or have to due in order get it working again.

 

The relay is behind the rear seatback by the motor.

I'm at work and don't have full access, but you should search for posts by me under keyword "scissor" to find my scissor top posts.

The motor must have BOTH a field wire AND an armature wire connected to hot AT THE SAME TIME in order to work.
Only one wire connected will burn it out.

- Eric

 

Thank you SO MUCH for the insight and location. I have been literally going though tons of posts

 

You're welcome.

Get the FBM and the CSM and you'll be much happier, too.

- Eric

 

Where can I pick those up at?

I found the relay and the previous owner hooked the to up to a line that's ways hot. Apparently that's also the same breaker the windows and the seat is attached to bc when I pull it, I too stops the clicking sound when I go to drop it

 

Fairly easy to get on fleabay. 1971 Chassis Service Manuals

Fisher Body Manual

See which one works for you. Price/shipping/location

 

Purchased both from amazon. Paperback for the Chassis Service Manual and it came with a CD for the Fisher Body Manual included. Thanks for the tip, bc I have been looking at the online one. I just wish I could figure out the window sooner then later. I now am just waiting on the mail haha

 

It is probable that only an original factory manual will have clear images of the full color wiring and transmission diagrams in the CSM (the FBM is all black and white).

- Eric

 

I agree but the offer from amazon and a "buy one get one free" kind of deal. Which is good because I have looked all over the online version of the manual and I can't find anything on the power window issue that I am having. Not even the location of the relay

 

Also, you are aware that you can get a passable digital copy if the '71 CSM for free at WildAboutCars.com, right?
(They don't have the '71-'76 FBMs scanned in yet).

- Eric

 

Yeah. There were some accessory power supply changes with the new body style in '71, which would be in the FBM, but those years aren't up yet, so I'll look when I get home (unless I get waylayed) and let you know what I find.

- Eric

 

That is why I am just in a waiting stage. I have been looking at the online version for a few days now but haven't found solutions to what I am looking for.

As for my top, it could just be the relay because I hear the motor clicking but nothing is going to the each side motor. Plus, the guy I bought it from same that when he was driving it 7 years ago, it would hesitate about half way up and he would have to "guide" it to close. When I pulled the plugs off it, I saw the relay has come rust on it as well, so I may just have to replace it

 

Tried to run power directly to the window motor, nothing, not even a click

 

This is the second time I'm writing this because of the evil "expired token" problem.

I have my FBM in front of me now, so I can describe what you need to know.

Both the ignition accessory relay and the accessory terminal strip are located above the left kick panel, behind the dash, in a surprisingly large bit of empty real estate.

The terminal strip is comprised of two rows of terminals, each connected to a wire.
The Pink wire goes to the IGN terminal on the fuse block.
The Orange/Black wire goes to the ACC terminal on the fuse block.

The ignition relay has a pink wire which picks up the trigger voltage from one side of the terminal strip, and an Orange/Black wire which picks up the power for the windows from the other side of the terminal strip.

A Red/White wire brings power from the relay to the power windows, and goes to each window switch.

Each window switch switches power from the Red/White feed wire to one of two motor wires.
One motor wire makes the window go up and the other makes it go down.
The motor circuit is completed through ground.

The Red/White wire should have power whenever the ignition switch is on RUN.

If you have no power at the switch, and you can't get the switches to work, you can always get the windows to go up and down by applying +12v directly to the proper window motor wire at the connector where it connects to the door harness.

- Eric

 

Thank you so much! I'm just getting home now but I will for sure take a look at this tomorrow to see what I can do.

 

Good luck!

I will not be available during the day today, but will check the board tonight.

- Eric

 

Well I just for the breaker in and installed it. Nothing changed mechanically, so I can officially rule that out as a cure

 

Just follow the current from there.

- Eric

 

Got my guides (digital) in the mail today. Looks like I will have to rule out a bit of issues in order to figure out the exact problem with the windows not working. I'm hoping I can find a short somewhere simple so that I can fix them and get the windows working before the rain comes here in California bc I have one that is cracked open and I can't get it to close (and no I don't know how to attach my 12v drill battery to the terminals to get it to shut/test the motor)