When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for tips on resolving a brake line leak. The main line that runs along the frame, in to the bottom of the distribution block on the frame, won’t stop weeping when the brakes are applied. I have tried quite a few times rethreading the nut and adjusting the angle of the line so I could finger tighten. I have even tried copper flare washers but that didn’t work. Short of getting a new line, what remedies has the group tried to eliminate weeping? I am thinking there is a crack in the flare or maybe an issue with the block itself.
And is it possible to swap out the brake line with the body on the car? I know for the fuel lines that it is not possible. Other than snaking it through the goofy slip 3/4 of the way down the side rail, it looks straight forward enough.
That looks to be the line that goes to the rear of the car. In any case, have you tightened it using a flare nut wrench? Lines can be tightened better with the proper tool and seat the flare better.
The main line can be replaced with the body on the frame, but it may require disconnecting the rear shocks, as well as possibly the upper rear control arms to gain access to lift the body/lower the rear axle and not bend a preformed main line.
Last edited by Toms cutlass; July 19th, 2021 at 08:17 AM.
The main line can be replaced with the body on the frame, but it may require disconnecting the rear shocks, as well as possibly the upper rear control arms to gain access to lift the body/lower the rear axle and not bend a preformed main line.
The main rear brake hard line will likely ship folded w/ a large radius bend (mine did). I was able to snake the rear end of the line through the openings on my '68 to the body mounted coupling to the flex line to the rear axle no problem without messing w/ the rear shocks or control arms. IIRC, I did have to unbolt the trans cross member to tuck the front half into the frame rail above the cross member before connecting the front of the line to the distribution block. I did this w/ the car on a 4-post lift with weight on the suspension.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; July 19th, 2021 at 10:24 AM.
I'll assume you've tightened it sufficiently with a flare wrench. Is it possible there may be some debris in the seat that won't let the flare seat properly in the block? If not, I would think a possible thread problem on either the nut or block. Based on your build thread, I'm assuming these are both the original parts and you probably cleaned them prior to reinstallation. Maybe the threads got damaged during that process. Not much, but just enough to keep the seat from sealing properly.
Yes, you can change the main front/rear line with the body on the frame. It should have a connection at the rear bulkhead near the driver's side upper control arm pivot point. Note, that is a cramped location to access so some amount of disassembly may be necessary. The bracket near that location that holds the line to the frame has the bolt coming in from the top. Hard to access but not impossible. Note there may be some minimal amount of bending of the replacement line to get it in its proper location. You'll have to be very careful so it ends up looking straight and not wavy.
Also, for what it's worth, the main fuel line(s) can be replaced with the body on the frame. Take the difficulty of the brake line swap and multiply by 10 and that'll get you close in terms of difficulty but it can be done.
I'll assume you've tightened it sufficiently with a flare wrench. Is it possible there may be some debris in the seat that won't let the flare seat properly in the block? If not, I would think a possible thread problem on either the nut or block. Based on your build thread, I'm assuming these are both the original parts and you probably cleaned them prior to reinstallation. Maybe the threads got damaged during that process. Not much, but just enough to keep the seat from sealing properly.
Yes, you can change the main front/rear line with the body on the frame. It should have a connection at the rear bulkhead near the driver's side upper control arm pivot point. Note, that is a cramped location to access so some amount of disassembly may be necessary. The bracket near that location that holds the line to the frame has the bolt coming in from the top. Hard to access but not impossible. Note there may be some minimal amount of bending of the replacement line to get it in its proper location. You'll have to be very careful so it ends up looking straight and not wavy.
Also, for what it's worth, the main fuel line(s) can be replaced with the body on the frame. Take the difficulty of the brake line swap and multiply by 10 and that'll get you close in terms of difficulty but it can be done.
Helpful, thank you. I suspect the issue is the line. Yes, this is the factory block. The lines are from ILT.
The first time I assembled the rolling chassis, I installed a reproduction block from ILT and hooked the lines to it. I am thinking that perhaps the line formed to the new block, and now that I am trying to go in to the old block, I am having sealing issues. It may be a stretch, however, it seems logical. I need to inspect the aftermarket block and see if anything is different with the way a line would seat to it.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; July 19th, 2021 at 10:46 AM.
The main rear brake hard line will likely ship folded w/ a large radius bend (mine did). I was able to snake the rear end of the line through the openings on my '68 to the body mounted coupling to the flex line to the rear axle no problem without messing w/ the rear shocks or control arms. IIRC, I did have to unbolt the trans cross member to tuck the front half into the frame rail above the cross member before connecting the front of the line to the distribution block. I did this w/ the car on a 4-post lift with weight on the suspension.
I didn't use a lift and didn't have to unbolt the trans cross member. I replaced the main brake line at the same time as rear upper control arms & rear axle bushings, shocks, rear axle and rear flex hose brake lines, gas tank, etc.
July 18th, 2021, 07:24 PM
