it may be about the same, maybe even a bit more. The W30 has louder exhaust than mine

 

I found out the pistons are flush with the deck at TDC. I did a little math. The bore is .030 over. It appears to have the 15cc high compression pistons and 77 cc E heads. Not accounting for head gasket or potential machine work to the heads, that would put the CR at 10.29:1.

 

that's static CR I believe. Not sure how dynamic CR could be higher using a different cam. Long duration could lower compression. Of course this stuff is new to me so I may by be including so factor to which I am unaware.

 

correction:"may not be"

 

did a test drive for the TV cable settings and the car shifts perfectly with the 323 gear. Nice firm shifts. Unfortunately the car has no power when you call on it. I think it's a timing issue. I am using the stock GM HEI from a later model oldsmobile that I took off the 350. My mechanic set the timing at 10 degrees. Not sure at what rpm. He advanced it a little and it seemed to give it a bit more power, but my 350 was at least as quick. I have been reading the treads and they're are saying the timing needs to be set at 20 degrees at 1100 rpm because there is such a short advance curve with the stock hei distributor. Maybe only 11 degrees. He's going to adjust and we will see. Hopefully that is all it needs. I know I adjusted my 350 until it started knocking then backed off which worked really well for performance.

 

I run 14 initial with 22 mechanical. Your lack of power could just be the timing curve. Buy a curve kit and swap the springs. Try a light and a medium for the mechanical advance.

 

the springs on the mechanical adv?

 

also, is there a different timing indicator for an hei? I have read posts which suggest so. The non-hei indicator may not show 20 deg btdc

 

No worries she will be fine...

It is.


Sounds good to me. HEI needs more advance than points, points set up on a 455-2 requires 12* BTDC. So 10 sounds way low.

Very common for guys to have a fresh build and complain about sluggishness. It usually points in this same direction (no pun intended). Timing/tune has to completely cater to build and exact setup.

Oh yeah works like a charm, my 67 330 eventually got set that way.

 

Yes on the mechanical advance just try different springs. Your engine would want more timing in from the mechanical adv.. earlier in the RPM curve. My current sbo wants all the timing in by 2200 ish but with a 4500 stall early loading isn't an issue. For a regular street strip engine on a normal car you can have the timing all in as soon as 2800 if the car is set up right. But just swap springs and see what that does. Stock GM units have really stiff springs.

 

We set the timing to advance to 34*. Still no power. The 700r4 grenaded so we installed a rebuilt TH400. The performance was better but not great. I thought the cam may not have been right. I spoke with Mark cutlassefi. He thought the Edelbrock carburator was the problem and he was right. I had the original Quadrajet rebuilt and the car shreds both tires. Unfortunately the idle doesn't work. I dies if set below 1100 rpm. We checked the passages and they are all clear. I was reading that some of the rebuild kits don't have gaskets with correct hole configuration. I really like the performance of the carburator. Just need to figure out the idle.

 

I had an ebrock carb on mine, the car ran fine nit great just fine. I rebuilt a qjet and it runs a ton better. So my data agrees w yours. My car idles well tho.

the qjet is not hard to rebuild, and iirc there was several gaskets depending on qjet variations. I would get a kit and take it apart and see what youve got. If it was rebuilt at a known qjet rebuilder, your probably all set, but if it was rebuilt by someone trying to get it done as fast as possible, i think you would be ahead to look at it yourself. The CSM has an excellent set up section detailing all the need adjustments to the qjet.