67 fuel gauge issues
67 fuel gauge issues
I am sure some of you have run into the fuel gauge not working correctly issue. I would like to know what has worked for you all to get them working correctly. I have tried several gauges, a new sending unit. Replaced the printed circuit., by passed the hot side and still no correct gauge function. Has anyone had some experience getting these working correctly.
Thanks in advance
Larry
Thanks in advance
Larry
Fuel gauges are simple circuits. You should start by verifying that the dash gauge itself works independently of the sending unit. Disconnect the gauge from the sending unit and ground the wire coming from the gauge. With the key ON, the gauge should immediately go E. Then remove the wire from ground, and it should immediately go F or likely well past it. If these things happen, the gauge is fine.
Assuming the gauge checks out, the next step is to verify that the ground wire coming from the sending unit is, in fact, properly and securely grounded. These are usually grounded somewhere under the car and in an area that can get covered in crud and possibly corroded.
If the ground is OK and the gauge checks out, the only thing left is the sending unit.
Assuming the gauge checks out, the next step is to verify that the ground wire coming from the sending unit is, in fact, properly and securely grounded. These are usually grounded somewhere under the car and in an area that can get covered in crud and possibly corroded.
If the ground is OK and the gauge checks out, the only thing left is the sending unit.
There is a pink wire that should have 12v on it when ever the key is on. The tan wire runs back to the tank. If you ground the tan wire the gauge will go to E if you disconnect it will go past full.
Back at the gas tank sending unit there are 2 wires, one is grounded somewhere close, the other is the tan wire that runs to the gauge. The same principle applies, if you ground the tan wire the gauge goes to E, if you remove it the gauge goes past full. If the wire at the tank passes this test, it's usually the sending unit.
Back at the gas tank sending unit there are 2 wires, one is grounded somewhere close, the other is the tan wire that runs to the gauge. The same principle applies, if you ground the tan wire the gauge goes to E, if you remove it the gauge goes past full. If the wire at the tank passes this test, it's usually the sending unit.
If you have a helper you can remove the sending unit, hook the wires up as they should be, hold it in your hand, work it up and down and have the helper watch the gauge. Another problem I have found is a bad float on the sender, the sender works when held and worked as described, so that left the float/ I replaced the float only, problem solved.
Really, your description of "not working properly" sounds like my one bad float experience.
Good luck,
Mike
Really, your description of "not working properly" sounds like my one bad float experience.
Good luck,
Mike
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