1965 Olds 400 timing mark question
July 27th, 2016, 04:04 PM
#1
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1965 Olds 400 timing mark question
1965 442 400ci.. Trying to check timing (haven't done so since I acquired the car).
Please look at the picture. I can't see any marks on the 'mark'.. Which one is '0' ?
There are three marks (slots).. Thanks in advance!
Please look at the picture. I can't see any marks on the 'mark'.. Which one is '0' ?
There are three marks (slots).. Thanks in advance!
July 27th, 2016, 07:41 PM
#5
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Location: Poteau, Ok
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Yes sir, you might can bump it up a few degrees also. I would check the condition of the points and replace them if they are burnt along with a new condenser. Make sure your dwell is set to 30, then set your timing.
July 28th, 2016, 06:33 AM
#7
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You can't use the stock timing settings with an HEI, bump the timing at idle to 16-18* btdc as the HEI has only 17-18* mechanical advance and you will be pleasantly surprised. You may have to limit your vacuum advance so that you don't exceed 50 total advance to start with. Total advance is initial of 18 + 18 mechanical + 14 vacuum. You can play with different settings from there. Make sure you have full battery voltage to it, do not use the resistance wire.
July 28th, 2016, 06:37 AM
#8
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Let me try that a little differently.
The stock initial timing settings are designed for a stock engine with the stock mechanical and vacuum advance curves running on the gasoline that was available when the car was new. ANY changes from those conditions (including using the cat urine that passes for gasoline today) will likely require altering the timing. If you have a real, large cap HEI distributor installed, it likely will have very different advance curves from those in your stock distributor. If, however, by "HEI conversion" you mean that you have an electronic points replacement in your stock distributor, well, that is not "HEI" and obviously you still have the original mechanical and vacuum advance curves. In any case, the optimum timing will likely need to be altered from spec, and this is a trial and error thing.
The stock initial timing settings are designed for a stock engine with the stock mechanical and vacuum advance curves running on the gasoline that was available when the car was new. ANY changes from those conditions (including using the cat urine that passes for gasoline today) will likely require altering the timing. If you have a real, large cap HEI distributor installed, it likely will have very different advance curves from those in your stock distributor. If, however, by "HEI conversion" you mean that you have an electronic points replacement in your stock distributor, well, that is not "HEI" and obviously you still have the original mechanical and vacuum advance curves. In any case, the optimum timing will likely need to be altered from spec, and this is a trial and error thing.
July 28th, 2016, 08:07 AM
#10
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Understood.. Didn't think of the different advance curves. It is an actual HEI unit, not conversion of original distributor.
I have a timing light with adjustment so I will check it that way. Are you saying 'all in' advance should be around 50* ?
I have a timing light with adjustment so I will check it that way. Are you saying 'all in' advance should be around 50* ?
July 28th, 2016, 08:13 AM
#11
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Thats with vacuum advance connected at an rpm high enough where it stops advancing. Usually quits at 3500+ rpm. I leave the vacuum advance disconnected until I get my total mechanical setup at around 36. Then I work on where to limit the vacuum advance.
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