Quite a few articles on the web about starting a old classic after it has been sitting a while. But my question to anyone is what would be a minimal acceptable starts during the winter months. Once a week? Once a Month? And then, is just starting it and letting it idle for 5 - 10 minutes enough, or does it really need to run around the block. Any thoughts?

 

In my opinion, once a month is probably sufficient. I would take it around the block a couple times. This way our brakes and transmission are exercised and it will be good for your tires also.

 

It might depend on how cold and moist the winter is. I'm assuming inside storage. My guess would be to run it once each month long enough to allow the thermostat to open at least partially if there is one installed. Once it gets warm run it some above idle. And probably, if possible, take it for a short ride every other month, without getting in the salt. That should polish off the surface rust on the brakes and clutch.

 

Zero.

Every time that you start it and don't drive it to the point of being fully warmed up just produces water, which then lays in your exhaust system and rots it from the inside.

- Eric

 

Put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank, disconnect the battery, and let it hibernate for the winter. If you decide the weather is nice enough to take it for a long ride that will get the engine to temp and run long enough to burn any moisture ought of the oil then connect the battery and go for it.

 

^^^This! The biggest problem with letting a car sit is the cat urine that passes for gasoline these days. The ethanol and other additives leave residue in the carb as they evaporate. The ethanol also absorbs water, which can cause corrosion in the carb. Of course, once the gas evaporates, the gaskets in the carb dry out. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do about this. If you can plug the fuel inlet to the carb and run it dry before putting the car away, this helps prevent residue from clogging the passageways in the carb.

I'll be honest, I don't do any of this. I just park my 62 at the end of the season. Come spring, I fill the float bowls through the carb vents and the car fires right up.

 

No shortage of opinions on this. The real answer probably depends on where you are located and how easy it is to access the car while its in storage. I'm lucky living in Texas so I'm able to start and drive my cars all year. It is very important as mentioned above that you fully warm the car up once you start it and driving is the best way to do this. With my Starfire I have a couple of standard routes that I alternate, they combine freeway frontage roads where I can get the car above 60 mph with regular stop and go streets. I have had trouble with ethanol gas going bad but that's mostly if you leave it sit for more than 6 months. I drive my cars enough that the fuel doesn't sit that long, I also don't fill the tank but rather add 5 or 6 gallons at a time to maintain freshness. If you are in a position where you just can't get your car out to drive for a long period you may want to jack up the back and run the car in gear to fully warm up the engine, transmission, and rear end. Good luck.

 

Guys, thanks for all the replies. These all helped and are very much in line with what I had read. I am in Chicago and it appears for the most part, there will be a few days with dry streets for me to take it for a run. Although cold as crap, still several dry days. So my plan is to take it out at least twice a month for a run. I have added STabil to the last tank of gas. Very excited to have this car.

 

37, Most high octane (91-93) fuel up here doesn't have alcohol in it. Alcohol having an octane of 89. If you stick to the high stuff, you pay a bit more, but it reduced the worry of water in the fuel

 

If your car has no A/C, then there's really no reason to run it, other than liking to do so.

If your car has AC, it should be run every few weeks to lube the seals, and run till it's totally warmed up.

 

37-Here in Milw, WI we'll have several days in Jan -Feb where the roads will be bone dry in cold weather. The white dust that is kicked up by the tires is salt

 

Doesn't everyone do the same? Shut the fuel pump off and run it out of gas. Drain the gas use it for other purposes. Clean the car front to back on top. Clean top of engine while inspecting it for leaks and what not, or visa versa. Jack car up as hi as you can go with stands on all four corners. Clean underside from front to back while inspecting for things that mysteriously loosen up or possibly leak. Write down a list of preventive maintenance. Place a cover on it and call it a day. Then come back once a month to turn the crank by hand to releive stress off the valve springs. Don't tell me I'm the only one!
Sean

 

Sorry if I offend anyone, but living up here in the Frozen North sucks. and I am not just talking in regards to classic cars.

 

dont as noted below once salt hits the roads dont drive it at all


The salt may be dry but as it sits on the car moisture will get to it either condensation or the next wash or rain storm etc, todays aggressive chemicals will eat these cars and parts faster than they did back in the day.

store it as best you can and take every precaution you can I use damp rid (desiccant) in the interior and trunk, park the car on heavy plastic to prevent any moisture from coming up from below (even in a garage unless its climate controlled). i use 3-4x the std amount of stabil and a full tank of gas(stabil calls for 2x for longer term storage) this seems to help prevent the gas evap and deposits that joe mentioned, air up the tires 40psi or so (does this help IDK but it doesnt hurt) make sure the car is clean and dry when stored. change oil before storage (old oil has acidic deposits) cover it and watch for any signs of rodents. Remove battery and keep on a tender thats my basic prescription for the northeast typical winter temps 15-35° F the car will stay in the garage from nov to may than after a couple good spring rains have washed any salt away out it comes again.

 

Some people just park it in the yard.

- Eric

 

Hahaha..... Simply put! Lol

 

All I do is clean my car inside and out, check tires, fill the tank with fresh gas with some Marvels Mystery oil and give it a last good run. I park it and disconnect the battery and cover it with a light cover. Come spring I reconnect the battery start it, starts on second turn, check things out and drive it. Last winter my biggest problem was being trapped out of my garage that I rent until spring. The snow was almost up to roof. This year I have my own garage to keep it in. Last winter’s cold was good storage weather, cold and dry.

 

I'm further north still. No offense taken. Personally ... I'd hate to lose the ability to take the old wagon to an empty parking lot and burn half a tank of gas doing doughnuts in fresh snow.

 

I lived in the Chicago area most of my life then moved to Texas in 1992 - I totally agree with you and won't be going back!

 

Well, I felt pretty good after the first few posts that I would keep to my original game plan, just wait for a few dry days and take it out for a spin. But after the last few posts about salt, etc, I am back to square one. Im thinking my neighborhood doesnt do that much salting, so a few trips around the block shouldnt hurt much I wouldnt think.

 

Unless your car is a trailer queen, these cars were meant to drive in all kinds of weather. I agree stay out of the salt, but other than that, enjoy.

 

of course its your car you can do whatever you like but thru the magic of time lapse photography I present to you my dads old 71 never driven in bad weather but driven infrequently on warmer days in winter and nicer days the rest of the year. The car was also the victim of less than great storage for ~15 yrs(inside but slightly leaky garage and the car not prepped for storage)

late 80s no visible rust all body panels good




early 00s not a single good body panel, rusted thru doors, floors fenders quarters, trunk lid and hood frame. note rims and bumpers retain most of their original finish w minor corrosion. how... what....? residual salt + any moisture = junk . the trunk lid rot thru is typical of all areas that just look like lifting paint all thru jholes