Does anyone have pictures of their relocated brake distribution block? I have the motor pulled out and thought it would be a good time to relocate the block.

Thanks,
Rick
1970 442 4 speed

 

Rick my phone is broke may have a new one Sunday. If i do i will take a picture of mine on my 1970 442 for you. Maybe someone else can post one also.Neeley

 

Rick,
Here is where I placed mine about two weeks ago. '68 442.

I initially tried to simply move it up on top of the frame rail from it's original location as others have done. The bell crank for the clutch was in the way.

So I engaged in a Learning Experience:
I re-plumbed the entire system. The existing front lines were not long enough to reach the new location, and I did not want to add in extensions - just another failure point.

Rich

20150912_094431.jpg20150912_094417.jpg

 

Rich,
Thanks so much for the photos. Your set up looks like it will work perfect on my car. I just ordered a new booster/master cylinder set up so I'll have to wait until next week before I plumb everything. Did you recondition the distribution block or is that new? If new, where did you buy it and how much did it cost? OPG wants $107.00 for a new one which seems a little pricey to me.
On another subject, where is your clutch return spring fastened? Is it on your starter housing or somewhere else? I'm thinking about changing to a high torgue mini starter and was looking for some other attachment options.

Thanks,
Rick

 

Neeley,
Did you get your new phone? Would love to see your pics if you have them.

Rick

 

I got the distribution block from Inline Tube. About $80. I'm still working on refreshing the shifter linkage, etc. in that area. I have a Hurst bushing and clip set that I will be installing this afternoon. I hooked the clutch return spring to the starter.

I bought the brake line, fittings, and tools from Amazon. I have a few extra fittings if you need them. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Rich

 

I think I'm OK on the fittings but thanks for the offer. Are the brake lines stainless? I never thought about Amazon. I'll have to check it out.
Do you have your back drive linkage hooked up? Will it clear the block and brake lines the way you have it mounted now?

Rick

 

No, I didn't go stainless steel on the tubing. As hard as SS is, I think I would have wasted a lot of it trying to get the bends correct. I tried to use the original tubing as templates, but even that was tough - lots of tweaking once in place to avoid rubbing, etc.

I think the backup linkage, etc. is different between the '68 version and yours.

When you say "back drive linkage" are you referring to the backup light switch linkage? Or the actual reverse gear linkage? Both are hooked up at this time.

The backup light switch linkage attaches to the shifter linkage pawl. ...If I'm using the correct term... In the pics below, I was test fitting the installation and do not have the clips on the ends of the switch-to-pawl link.

There is a lot of travel/leeway in the switch, so hopefully I won't have to do much adjustment.

 

If your running standard manifolds you can attach to the block, if your using headers attach to one of your down pipes. You can make a bracket out of some type of flexable metal to wrap it around your down pipe. Or use bailing wire!

Bill