Is it possible to remove just the chrome portion of this shift lever from the rest of the shifter? if so how do you do it? The chrome shift lever has some play inside of the shifter itself, so it appears that it can be removed. both bolts that are in the pictures seem too low on the assembly to have anything to do with the stick. This is on a 68 Cutlass Supreme but I am not sure if this is a stock shifter.
Thanks.
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I haven't done it, but I believe you can slip some shim-stock, feeler gauge, or ?? ...between the chrome stick part and the part its 'plugged in' to. Its just a couple of spring loaded tabs with dimples that fit in the chrome shifter handle holes...

From Hurst ..
"To remove the stick, place or push a steel shim or feeler gauge down each side of the stick, at the bottom where the chrome handle goes into the mechanism, and pull. "

 

I've tried the feeler gauge attempt but I'm not having any luck getting the feeler gauge to slide down. How hard should be to get it in between the shifter handle and the tabs?

 

Mine had no play and I've never been able to get it out. I would think if you had a little play you could get a feeler gauge in there

 

I have taken 2 of them apart. If the stick has never been removed, they are really tight. Try the thinnest feeler gauge that won't bend or kink easily when sliding down the side (I ruined a couple real thin ones first........). Had some luck using a pair of pliers to grab the feeler gauge and force it down. It has to slide down right in the center of the side of the stick about an inch or so.

 

Not sure if they still do it, but years ago Hurst had a service where they would factory rebuild any Hurst shifter for free, all you had to pay for was the shipping. I had this done with a sloppy one from a Trans-Am, it was like new when I got it back. It would be well worth it even if they charged a reasonable fee. Another tip, if it hasn't already been done, substitute metal rod bushings for the plastic ones and keep them lubed, eliminates more slop and improves the shift feel. Check with Hurst!

 

I just looked at the Hurst website, they do still offer the rebuild service but it now costs $165.00 plus shipping - probably worth it if it is an original factory unit. Take a look: http://www.hurst-shifters.com/?page_id=17

 

Try some penetrating oil first, keep working the feeler gauge down, you'll get it out.

 

The Hurst shifter rebuilding service is a bit sloppy and overpriced. As someone on here once said, "all you need is a vice and a few shims and you can rebuild it yourself."
I don't recommend their service especially if you throw caution to the wind and have the handle rechromed. (The chrome service they use filled in one of the detents and Hurst did not bother to remove the chrome from said detent!) As I said, not recommended!

 

It was never free, but it was relatively cheap. I had mine done for $40 in the mid-'90s when Hurst was part of Mr. Gasket in Cleveland. I took it in and picked it up.

You didn't read far enough. OEM shifters are $250.00 for basic service, less shipping. Quite frankly, that is a rip-off.

 

I'm having a tough time with this, after an hour of working at it I have only got the feeler gauges in just past the first dimple on the shifter body. Now I cant seem to get them to move any further. I've sprayed some penetrating oil on, but dont have high hopes. How far down in relation to the two dimples on the shifter body do the feeler gauges have to go?
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Don't use two, just one, on driver side.It works, done it manny times.

 

Thanks for the advice, I finally got that miserable s.o.b. out. .017 feeler gauge on yhe drivers side, tilted slightly forward to clear the stick so I could pound it in. Used a mini vice grip to pound on, positioning the feeler gauge up against the crotch of the pliers so it couldnt slip. Pounded it in 1.5", then removed the vice grip and rotated the feeler gauge vertical, feeling it pop the detent. Used a rubber hammer to pound upward on the shift ball to finally work the shifter free.

Thanks for all the advice, it crossed my mind more than once to cut it and drill/bolt it back on. Now I can finally get at laying the carpet.

 

NEVER send a shifter to Hurst for a rebuild. This was told to me by a former Hurst employee. Their rebuild service was located in Nevada or one of the western states. They moved the service back to Ohio and didn't keep any of the experienced employees. They sent one guy from Ohio for one week to learn about the rebuilding of the shifters. He said the guy was more interested in the racing shifters and not so much the OEM shifters.

If you ever need a shifter rebuilt,here's the go to guy for it and any Muncie related parts or trans rebuilds. He's top shelf all the way, I highly recommend him and he's very reasonable on pricing. He can also re plate your shifter handle to show quality. With his OEM shifter rebuilds,he puts new rubber isolators in the top section to tighten the slop. Tell him Mike Richards referred you and his info is:

Dennis Maroudas (DBA) DME
625 Forest Hills Rd
Forest Hills,KY 41527
606-237-6648


Now for the handle removal. Here's what I do,spray a little WD 40 beside the clips. Then take two single edge razor blades and angle the corner beside the handle on each side and push them down with pliers or tap them down with a small hammer as far as they will go. Then pull up and wiggle the handle and it will come out. The razor blades are stronger than a thin feeler gauge and will work better. The razor blades do not have to go all the way past the area where the clips snap into the handle,they only have to push them apart far enough to release the clips. You need to first put the shifter in a vice to be able to wiggle the handle or if it's still in the car that will work. I hope this helps.

Mike

 

I am having a shifter for my '72 done here; he comes highly recommended.




Peter Serio
2719 Columbus Ave.
Columbus, OH 43209.
614-258-3500

 

manchester muncies rebuilt mine, heres a link to some pics, havnt used it yet but im sure itl shift like new, the shifter is actualy an early 66 i believe

http://w29.boards.net/index.cgi?acti...ad=3136&page=1