A few weeks ago, I picked up a 1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham. It has the 260 in it and is sludged!

Valve covers were leaking, so I pulled them to put in new rubber gaskets. To my horror I came face to face with the worst sludge I have ever seen.
Ok, I decided to shop vac all I could and flush the engine. Oil light (engine) in now on solid. Now running 5W-20 and it smokes like crazy.

In many discussions with mechanics of various backgrounds, most have suggested running 1-2 quarts of diesel in place of the oil. An older mechanic told me to run 5 quarts of diesel and it would dissolve all sludge.

My guess is the oil pick up screen is clogged and that is why the light is on. My goal is to have this car as a beater until a suitable block is found (330 or 350).

 

This car is rough, RF was damaged. I do have a front header for it. Interior is fairly solid.

 

No garage, just a carport.

 

give up on that 260 and get a real engine. I have many... so many I had to stop buying 350's.

 

It;s a pretty good bet that 5W20 will give you inadequate oil pressure in a worn Olds motor, at least once it's warm.

Since, as has been pointed out, this motor has no value, why not experiment with different formulations, and see what clears out the sludge the best?

Worst case scenario, the engine blows up, but what's an engine with no oil pressure worth, anyway?

By the way, are you sure your oil pressure switch is good?

- Eric

 

Had the same situation with a rust-free 80 cutlass - only had 83k, but I don't think the oil was ever changed!
Spent about 20 hrs. cleaning, flushing and scraping that 260, and sold it for $1500.
[Paid a nickle!!]
Guy blew it up on the way home, going 80 on 80 - I told him to take it easy, and gave him a 'taillight' warrantee!
He knew the whole story!

 

Like most here, I've always kept up on oil changes, but have seen some badly sludged up engines from neglect. You can get pour in oil solvents for stuck lifters, only meant to run a couple days, before draining.. I've been wrenching for years, and since you have offers for good deals on another engine, what I'd do. Sounds like a big deal at first, but since I have the tools, really the best way. Work on the other engine at you're liesure, then a quick weekend swap over. At the very least, sounds like your valve seals are dried/hardened. Main thing is getting past the idea of an engine swap being a huge deal. It's really not much a deal at all. Could save you lot's of fender paint scrapes, and down time too.

 

I'm with them ^^^^. I had a 260 and it was the worst engine I've ever had in an Olds. Eric knows all about them too - he has one in that massive 73 Delta of his.

BOTH of you guys should get together and drop at least 350's in your cars.

 

that's the risk you take when you try to clean sludge out of an engine-the sludge clogs the oil pickup and roaches the motor.

i agree, yank the 260, strip the useful parts, and scrap the rest.


bill

 

I am looking for a 350 or 330, no luck yet. Prefer the 330 for something different.

 

5W-20 is only to try and get oil flowing around.

I have a new pressure switch to be replaced this weekend.

 

Body (except the front damage) is almost completely rust free! A rarity here in the NE.

 

The idea of an engine swap has been accepted as a cost-efficient reality. Just need a good engine first.

 

Allan, do you have anything against the 330?

 

330 vs 350. I think a 330 will require harder to source parts and they are older meaning scarcer the 350 has been around 4 ever so manifolds etc are plentiful which means cheaper. Why go the difficult route? If you want different put a 455 in her lol

 

The manifolds are the same with a 330 vs the 350, The parts for a low compression 330 all over the place, but the hi compression 330 is a different story. Like everyone else I believe you will find the 350 to be your better bet, or you can just go with a 455, lol.

De-sludging is always a gamble, you probably will have to pull the intake to do it right. Then your going to find that the lifters and some of the rockers are worn out, and so on, and so on.

Eric is right on the oil viscosity, you probably need to run a straight 30 minimum or a 20/40.

A qt of trans fluid in your oil for about 500 miles will probably clean up the lower end of the motor once you get the top end scraped and clean.

 

A quart or two of diesel or kerosene will loosen things up but as stated it has to go somewhere and that will lead to a mess every where else.

 

No. I just like the 350 better. BTW, if you have a 260 you should also change out the trans when you do the engine swap. The 260 came with the TH200 which is a very light duty trans. It would not stand up to the torque of a 350 or a 330. For that matter I don't know if the TH200 would even have the right bolt holes.

 

I have a 350 4 bbl with # 7 heads disassembled , was considered parting it but have decided to sell as is let me know

 

I like the 330! Had one in my 65 Jetstar 88 and my 67 442.

You are right- it is the difficult way. 350 is the way.

 

I ran the 5W-20 to get oil around the build up. Next up is 10W-30 and so on.

 

Absolutely true. I was hoping the diesel would dissolce everything and it would all drain out?

 

I know about the TH200. Maybe a 350/TH350 is the way to go?

 

Where are you located and how much are you asking?

 

Sea-Foam mixed in with the oil works well.

 

My old mech used kerosene in the oil. I don't know the mixture.

The 350 ran great until it had a Chrysler 300M go into the waterpump

 

You would be better off just drive it as is until you find a replacement.
You clean it up and all that stuff dissolve and goes to the pan. Either it clogs up the pick-up or becomes sand like dirt and just eats up all the bearings , and leaves you stranded one day. All that dissolved sludge will work work against you.
Just drive it and start working on a 350/th350 combo and have it ready to drop in. JMO

Gene

 

^^ I agree, not to mention all the leaks you may cause!

 

You could do that, chances are that if you find the 350 it may also have a 350 trans. If it was my car though, I'd put in a 350 and bolt up a 200R4. That way you have the power but also some of the economy that high gas prices nowadays almost dictates.

BTW, I had a 78 Cutlass Calais. Basically the same car as yours. It was excellent for ride, but had issues with wind noises on the highway. My car was one of those unfortunate ones that came from the factory with a Chevy 305 4bbl instead of an Olds power plant. You can look up the history on the debacle if you want. Even with that engine, it was a snappy little car.

You know you could also put in a 307/200R4 out of a Gbody and it should be pretty close to a direct swap? Only think is most of the Olds 307s had a whopping 145 hp! Still, it would move that car and deliver pretty impressive fuel economy to boot.

 

Thanks to all for suggestions. Since this 260 will probably die after my experiments, I hope someone will learn from my results. This weekend I will change the oil pressure switch as MDchanic suggested. Picked one up from Autozone today.

 

Alan, when did you get rid of the 1978?

I would like to keep the rig simple, that was one reason for the 330. The 307 idea is a great suggestion, however I would like to stay away from having a "computer controlled combustion". A 330 or 350 with points would not scare me.

 

Replaced oil pressure sender and light was still on.

Took out oil pressure sender and cranked engine until it started. Oil spouted out of the hole. Cleaned up the hole mess and put new sender back in.

LIGHT is OUT!

 

Back in 1981 - traded it on an 81 Omega 4 door Brougham. Wish I'd kept the 78, it was a great riding car.

I love the sound of success!

 

Ah HA!

Very tricky.

Nice work in getting 'er done!

- Eric