Mattia-SS

I was not sure where to put this post but I need to fill my AC and I have no idea how much, does anyone know how much the system contains? The AC is rebuilt for the new gas. It says Harrison on it

DeltaPace77

The compressor usually has an amount label on it, but normally about 3.5 lbs for R-22. If 134a now, about 80% of that. Your older car, should have a sight glass on it, beneath the top radiator frame. As mentioned, a bit less for 134a. Bettin' you're loosing juice through the compressor shaft seal. Good idea, injecting some UV trace dye into the system when recharging. Hit everything with a UV light later to see.

Lady72nRob71

The 72's factory system held 4lbs of R12, so the 70 I think would be the same.

brown7373

R-22? Don't you mean R-12? And don't forget to add the correct amount of the right oil. If it was totally rebuilt, was oil added? The service manual tells you how much goes in each various component. It corculates around, but some will settle in the condensor, some in the evaporator and some in the compressor, etc.. You don't want to under or over fill with oil, and R-134a takes different oil than R-12, and they don't mix.

71 Cutlass

R-12 is what they meant.

As far as pressure, I just use a gague. My 71 has been switched over to R-134a and the gague I use is color coded, so I just go up to the "danger zone" and stop. The gagues are available at auto parts stores, Walmart etc. and have proven themselves to be OK for the past 4 summers. I use the Ultra Synthetic Arctic Freeze made by Interdynamics.

Lady72nRob71

Yes its 12. My brain is pretty much fried at this point...

Texascarnut

When you say the A/C is rebuilt for the new gas, are you talking about all the components in the system or just the compressor? Has the receiver/dryer been replace to one compatible with R134a and POE oil? Which is to say your original receiver/dryer cannot be used due to the nature of the desiccant. Failure to replace the receiver/dryer will result in the old desiccant being reduced to basically mud and will trash out the compressor in pretty short order. Do you have a vacuum pump to evacuate the air and moisture from the system?

This link may be of help to you:
http://autoacrepairs.com/134aConversion.htm

There many other sites with good info.

1969w3155

Remember he's in Sweden, so what is available there may differ than what we have here.

DeltaPace77

Yup, my bad, as really meant R-12. Should know this, as actually ran a commercial HVAC business, and most of this was R-22. Thanks for the correction. Still do this a little bit, and have all the tools, scales, several jugs of different refrigerants, ext. The industry recently just phased out R-22 to R-410a. Of course, this raised the equipment costs. The european community's, now going after 134a too. This is basically a political thing now, as phasing out high chlorines like R-12, didn't help the the atmosphere at all. Think, having to recover equipment refigerant's a good idea, as could dump equipment refrigerent into the atosphere years ago.

Texascarnut

Regardless of where he is, converting to R134a has to be done right or it's hell to pay. In truth it makes a lot more sense to just use one of the R12 drop in replacements or just buy R12 since its still made elsewhere in the world and can still be obtained in this country even in left over 30 lb bottles and 12 oz cans. Given the price of R134a has been steadily headed upward a can of R134a is darn close to being the same price as a can of R12.

Mattia-SS

The ac is now flled but now the car wont start so i canīt check if it worked. the ac rebuild was done in USA.