Boiling gas?
#1
Boiling gas?
I came home from a long drive yesterday,when I opened the hood I noticed in the see through fuel filter it looked like the gas was boiling. Is this possible?Engine temp has always been an issue.
railguy
railguy
#4
To set up a return line, you need a return-type fuel pump and a retrn-type fuel sender, with the extra fitting for the return line (you may already have one there), and, of course, you need to run the line.
- Eric
- Eric
#5
I highly doubt that the gas is boiling in that see through filter. There is nothing to generate heat from the tank up to the carb except the engine itself, and the time it takes for fuel to get from the filter to the carb isn't long enough to boil the gas. It is more reasonable that the fuel pump diaphragm is letting fuel run back to the tank with the engine off OR that see through filter is not tight enough.
The see through filters are designed to come apart so that you can replace the plastic filter element. If you remove one side of the hose and tighten it up a bit sometimes it will keep fuel from draining back to the tank (which is what is giving you the bubbling symptom). If after tightening the filter up it still does that, throw a new fuel pump on it ($20) and your problem will go away.
The see through filters are designed to come apart so that you can replace the plastic filter element. If you remove one side of the hose and tighten it up a bit sometimes it will keep fuel from draining back to the tank (which is what is giving you the bubbling symptom). If after tightening the filter up it still does that, throw a new fuel pump on it ($20) and your problem will go away.
#6
I will admit that I took Railguy at his word about the fuel boiling.
If it is not boiling, and if the fuel filter is located AFTER the fuel pump (where it shouldn't be, because that would imply that you have rubber lines there), then bubbles could be caused by porous rubber lines BEFORE the fuel pump, allowing air to be sucked in along with the gasoline.
- Eric
If it is not boiling, and if the fuel filter is located AFTER the fuel pump (where it shouldn't be, because that would imply that you have rubber lines there), then bubbles could be caused by porous rubber lines BEFORE the fuel pump, allowing air to be sucked in along with the gasoline.
- Eric
#7
And after reading through again I realize you said you have a newer style pump...what do you have? If it's an aftermarket mechanical pump then I'm more inclined to see that glass "filter" as the culprit. I admit that they look decent but they are poorly made IMO. You probably need to tighten it a bit...but do so with one end of it disconnected from the fuel hose so the hose won't try to loosen it back up. That will probably solve your problem. I don't think the hose is where air is being introduced, I think it's that filter. It's happened to me.
#8
I agree, as always run a return loop to keep fuel line temperatures down. My current set up has a Mallory electric rear pump, with front regulator. Make sure of using an orface fitting for the return, no matter the set up. I went electric, so I could prime the carb on start up, and stall it empty when parking.
#9
I agree, as always run a return loop to keep fuel line temperatures down. My current set up has a Mallory electric rear pump, with front regulator. Make sure of using an orface fitting for the return, no matter the set up.
The pump I'm useing now dose not have the fitting for the return line.Is there a fitting or valve to convert it?The return line is there.As for air being drawn in through the line,I did use a good quality hose.Also what is a orfase fitting?
The pump I'm useing now dose not have the fitting for the return line.Is there a fitting or valve to convert it?The return line is there.As for air being drawn in through the line,I did use a good quality hose.Also what is a orfase fitting?
#10
I agree, as always run a return loop to keep fuel line temperatures down. My current set up has a Mallory electric rear pump, with front regulator. Make sure of using an orface fitting for the return, no matter the set up.
The pump I'm useing now dose not have the fitting for the return line.Is there a fitting or valve to convert it?The return line is there.As for air being drawn in through the line,I did use a good quality hose.Also what is a orfase fitting?
The pump I'm useing now dose not have the fitting for the return line.Is there a fitting or valve to convert it?The return line is there.As for air being drawn in through the line,I did use a good quality hose.Also what is a orfase fitting?
#11
I will admit that I took Railguy at his word about the fuel boiling.
If it is not boiling, and if the fuel filter is located AFTER the fuel pump (where it shouldn't be, because that would imply that you have rubber lines there), then bubbles could be caused by porous rubber lines BEFORE the fuel pump, allowing air to be sucked in along with the gasoline.
- Eric
If it is not boiling, and if the fuel filter is located AFTER the fuel pump (where it shouldn't be, because that would imply that you have rubber lines there), then bubbles could be caused by porous rubber lines BEFORE the fuel pump, allowing air to be sucked in along with the gasoline.
- Eric
#12
The carb has a built-in filter for these things.
There shouldn't be an aftermarket hose-clamp filter after the pump because if the rubber hose goes, your engine gets a gasoline bath, with often spectacular results.
A filter plumbed into steel lines would be fine.
- Eric
There shouldn't be an aftermarket hose-clamp filter after the pump because if the rubber hose goes, your engine gets a gasoline bath, with often spectacular results.
A filter plumbed into steel lines would be fine.
- Eric
#13
Sure, the gas in the tank is cooler than that in the engine compartment. But don't fool yourself into thinking it's actually "cool."
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