Yesterday It was my first time using a engine stand and I did get a 455olds on the stand complete with heads and intake manifold. My mistake was removing the pin and rotating the engine upside down. It's a 1,500 pound for wheel stand. Now I can't get the engine right side up no matter how hard I turn the handle. I turned the handle so hard the back leg lifted up off the ground. I made a big mess in the garage because oil came out the valve covers and even seen oil dripping from the timing cover. I bolted the mount too the two lower bellhousing threads and the other two arms to the to two top bellhousing threads. How in the world can I get the thing rightside up??? Someone please help I don't wanna ruin my new motor. The most I can turn the motor is sideways. When it said rotating stand I seriously thought it would rotate easy.

 

If it rotated down it will come back but you prob need help as the handle alone may not do it. Have a helper pull up on the engine while you force the handle. Some grease on the part that rotates will help. The weight of an engine is off center and that is why you are having trouble. Always pin the shaft else it will spin back due to gravity.

 

I'm with Joe and Frank Zappa (and so, I guess, with a different Joe...) on this:
Keep it greasy so it'll go down easy.

You should be able to rotate that motor with the long bar provided. If you can't, then the sleeve needs more grease.

- Eric

 

Grab it from the front by the water pump, opposite of the end bolted to the stand. Lifting and turning that end will reduce the strain on the rotating surface. Have your pin ready!

 

When I rotated my 330, I ran into the same problem. The stand I have is freaky. I took the pin out and started to turn the engine and I got so far and then it rolled around about 1/4 way, did it again and it was upside down. Did my work, but there was NO WAY I was going to upright the engine alone. Lucky my uncle was there doing work for my mom. He turned the bar, while I grabbed the front of the block and we turned it together.

My stand has humps, so it goes so far then stops.

I wonder how much those stands are on Horsepower that have a little crank and the engine smoothly turns over

 

Built a 455 on an engine stand from JC Whitney, and worked fine. Not sure I ever rotated it over with the heads on, but just get a friend to help turn it back. What the heck you doing working on an engine with oil in it anyway. Well, since what is, the oil should drain back into the pan after a day or two once up righted.

 

If I built more than one or two engines in my lifetime, I would buy one of these....I'm a tool ***** anyway...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9940_200349940

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/

 

Why not use the engine crane and hook a chain to the front of one of the cylinder heads (outer most and lowest bolt hole) and lift up that side of the engine while trying to turn it with the bar? When you get it as much as it will go, use a pair of vice grips to lock the stub that rotates in the stand to the stand itself. Or hold it in place with a piece of wood that runs to the floor so it won't drop back down. At that point, you might be able to put the chain on one of the lowest intake bolts or the other cylinder head and pull it up enough to get it to where you can move it with the bar. Be careful the stub doesn't try to slip out of the back of the stand.

 

Gotta agree with you "694" as have a knock down engine picker and use it frequently. Put together a four post garage lift a few years back, and wouldn't of happened without the picker. Hired a buddy to yank out tree stumps, and used it for that too. Unfortunately, don't actually know where the thing is right now, as everyone keeps barrowing it. Pickers really aren't expensive anymore, and nice tool to have.

 

I never use the handle on the back, just too much resistance with all that weight on it. I just grab the heads from the front of the engine and lift up rotating the engine about 90* at a time until I get it where I want it.

 

Boy those stands are expensive. I would stay clear from the Summit stand or any like it. The other looks like a 1250 lbs. stand. The summit type stand is $60 here while the Northern Tool stand is about $120. I bought a four leg stand, it's safer IMO.

To turn the engine, I'm with the others, someone turn the handle with the pin ready while a friend or two turns the engine until it's right side up. Good luck.

 

Thanks everyone for the help I got it back up. I didn't have anyone around so i hooked up the hoist to the block and the hoist did the turning as I lifted the crane. The oil was in it because I had just bought it and the seller dropped it off in my garage that way. I'll make sure I get the oil out now. Also I won't be turning the engine over again untill I get the manifold and heads off, I learned my lesson.

 

Glad it worked out. Good luck with your project.

 

A little tip(s). Hook the picker back up to the engine and slide it out of the stand. Use the adjustable arms and re-position the center pivot mount of the stand to line up with the camshaft or as high up towards the top of the block as possible. Use grade 8 bolts to secure that big block to the stand. Re-positioning the mount higher will help with balancing the weight of the block and rotating assembly vs. the weight of the installed cylinder heads, manifolds etc. Clean the paint off of the shaft of the mount and lube it up lol! Stand behind or beside the engine while rotating it slowly. If something happens (you slip and fall, the stand breaks, the cheap bolts used to secure the BBO to the stand break, etc, etc) you don't want to be in front of it! Good luck man. Keep us informed! It's kind of hard to tell in this pic, but I have the center of the mount as high as I could have it....almost aligned with the cam. DSCF1556.jpg