Just finished rebuilding my 1969 Olds 350. Trying to get it started and I got no spark. I tried to label the wires before the rebuild but the tags washed away. Heres what I got. Stock distributor with crane cams points conversion that I installed before the rebuild worked just fine.. new cap, new rotor, new coil, new ballast resistor. I have one wire from the crane cams conversion going to the + on the coil and the other wire from the conversion going to the - on the coil as stated in the instructions. I have a wire comming from the fuse box labeled +coil going to the ballast resistor and a wire from ballast resistor to + coil. Is there supposed to be a wire comming from the solenoid to the ballast resistor or the +coil. I had it right before the rebuild but just cant remeber how it goes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Eric

 

I'm no electrical guru but I'll give it a shot.

There should be a wire from the starter solenoid to the coil.
That energizes the coil in the cranking position then when the engine starts and the key is released to the run position the solenoid wire is de-energized and the power to the coil comes from the ignition switch circuit through a resistance wire to the coil to keep it energized and the engine running.
If that wire from the fuse panel for the external ballast resistor for the Crane unit isn't hot when cranking and when in the run position it isn't going to start.
Maybe it won't even if it does because of the resistor?

 

Just a question: Do you have it double resisted? In other words heavy resistor wire to ballast resistor then to distributor? Does Crane call for that? I had a similar problem with my Pertronix unit and a Mallory unit. Both had been double resisted by the previous owners and once I fixed it they ran great. Sounds like Bluevista has you set on the cranking issue.

 

No there is only 2 wires coming from the crane cams conversion. 1 goes to + coil and the other to - coil.

 

This may be my problem. I dont have a wire from solenoid to coil. I dont remember having one before though.

 

I was curious & found the link below. If the original wiring harness was used the wire from the soleniod to the coil would be the yellow wire.

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/ins.../90001700c.pdf

It might help the guys help you if you posted a few pictures.

Don

 

Well, just took off my Distributor cap and found my points conversion melted. I guess this happened when I hooked it up with out the ballast resistor at first. I put the points and condnser back in and Guess What!!!! Still no spark. I just don't get it!

 

NOW you can troubleshoot from a known starting point.

1. Clean the points. Use something slightly abrasive, like rough paper. You can use a rag with lacquer thinner a few times first if you'd like.
   Try 'er now.
2. Do you have power at the + terminal of the coil? Should about 12.5v with the points open / 8-9v with the points closed.
3. What is the resistance of the coil? Should be about 2-3Ω if I recall. Definitely not Ø and not ∞.
4. Disconnect the points wire from the - coil terminal and check the continuity to ground. You should have ∞ with the points open and Ø with the points closed. If you have a measurable resistance with the points closed, they are dirty.
5. Check the point dwell. Crank the engine and set it using a dwell meter.
6. Change the condenser with another one. An old one lying in the bottom of the toolbox is a good choice. You can connect the condenser from the coil - to ground instead of having it inside the distributor if you want to.

If you're not sure about the coil, you can put a spark plug wire in the top, put a spark plug in the other end of the wire and rest it on the block, jump the coil + to the battery +, and touch a wire from the coil - to ground. The plug should show a strong spark every time you pull the wire away from ground.

To emphasize, the two most likely culprits here are dirty points and a bad condenser.

Good luck!

- Eric

 

Thanks MDchanic I brought the coil to work the other day and tested it and it showed 1.2 ohms. I dont have a voltmeter here at my house, just a test light. I know im getting power to the coil with that. Not sure if it 12.5 volt though. I will try the things on your list. The condenser wire goes to the - on the coil right?
Thanks for your help, Eric

 

Yup.

As long as you've got a bright test light at the + coil terminal with the points open, you're good (it should dim a little when they close).

Here are some different diagrams to help you visualize the connections:







You can see that both the points and the condenser connect to the - terminal of the coil on one end, and to ground on the other end (in other words, they're in parallel with each other).

- Eric

 

MDchanic, I followed the steps you showed me to test my coil. When I pull the wire from the -post away from the block the wire sparks but not the plug. Do i need to be turning the engine when I do this or does this mean I have aa bad coil? Thanks, Eric

 

If the coil is connected only to the + of the battery, to a spark plug, and to the wire that you're touching to ground (or to the - battery terminal), and it's still attached to the car (ie: its case is still grounded), then the plug should spark when you pull away from ground.

I'd switch the coil for another you've got lying around, or go to the auto parts store and spring for a new one. RockAuto is showing them from $7.56 (Standard Auto Products cheap line) to $30.79 (Delco).

Usually the coil doesn't go completely bad - it usually gets weak, or gets weak when it warms up, or at high RPMs. If you can't get a spark out of it, though, it may be no good.

- Eric

 

Bougt a new coil at the local auto parts store and hooked it up. Fired right up. Thanks for all your help, Eric

 

Glad to help out.



- Eric