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I've reinstalled the wingvent frames into the doors of my '67 after repaint. I don't know what sealer the factory used. It looked like some form of putty. What are you restoration guys using?
Last edited by aqua67w30; Nov 28, 2022 at 12:31 PM.
Do you have a snip & sketch app uploaded on your computer? If not upload a good one.
Which location would best describe the location you found the old goo?
I know 68-9 didn't use anything between the chrome frame & door frame.
Olds didn’t use anything between the rubber and the outer door skin, but then their rubber was cast to push outward and fill the gap.
You may want to use 3M dum dum or similar to “glue” or stick replacement (lower quality) rubber to the outer door skin.
If you’re adjusting the front vent window, aim for a consistent and parallel gap between the windshield and forward-most vent window frame to minimize wind noise and water/wind ingress.
Olds didn’t use anything between the rubber and the outer door skin, but then their rubber was cast to push outward and fill the gap.
If you’re adjusting the front vent window, aim for a consistent and parallel gap between the windshield and forward-most vent window frame to minimize wind noise and water/wind ingress.
Chris
How do you adjust the vent window? Mine isn't closing all the way for some reason and I've yet to see anything showing how to correct that.
How do you adjust the vent window? Mine isn't closing all the way for some reason and I've yet to see anything showing how to correct that.
I'm a B&C body guy, not a Cutlass/442 guy, but what I've heard is that the nut which secures the wedge to the window wears down over the years and more or less gets loose. The B & C body cars have different windows which use a screw mechanism to pull the window closed tight.
I'm unaware of reproduction nuts, so the main option I've heard of is to put a shim on the part that the wedge sits against to "pull" the window tight & close once again. The other thing you can do as a semi-permanent fix is to look at the Trimlok catalog for adhesive backed rubber seals or adhesive backed closed cell foam seals (in your local hardware store) to minimize / close any gaps which let in air / water.
If you hear different / better advice from A body owners, go with their recommendations. You might also check out the Chevelle forum or other A-body forums to see how other brands with the same parts have solved the problem.
Finally, don't expect miracles. GM dropped vent windows in the late 60's partly due to the cabin noise they created. I've never really been able to get rid of that despite days and weeks of trying over the past 40 years or so. Noise is just kind of part of the deal with these older cars.
Thanks for the numbers cfair. It's not a noise issue, I'm trying to reproduce an assembly line look. Todays seam sealers are more like silicone. I'm hoping someone has found a product similar to what the factory used in "67.
Old thread, but just to confirm I’m using 3M dum dum which can be heated to conform to most any shape.
Use gloves and heat to soften it for sticking. It cleans up with 3M adhesive solvent and/or lacquer thinner.
I’ve used this stuff in place of the grey putty GM used in the 60’s to good effect, but only recently discovered the value of heat from a heat gun or glue pot to soften the goo and let it be brush-able, malleable to fill the voids we want to fill.
